Well i am going to give it a Shot......

First will do the Research... and get a source for refrigerants.. Don't know if u need a special permit here.. Hope not..

anyway i know some guys who study HVAC i'll start YELLING "HELP" :D

They have a refrigeration department at my school.. just make some friends there ... hope that will improve my succes rate :D

Keep u informed.. that is if i don't blow something up :rolleyes:

Have your friends build it.. they might find it fun.. and you can learn from it.

well I've hooked up my setup to my processor (xp 1800) finally and with the processor at 1992 (12x166) and 2.1v I get about -5c idle and 1-4c full load. This equates to about a 123watt heat load from the cpu. Anyhow I'm pretty happy with how high I was able to clock the cpu. I had tested the cpu with a pretty good air cooling setup and I was able to get 1700 mhz with air so 292 more mhz with this is pretty good I think. I'll probably mess around with things a bit more to see if I can optimize it a bit better.

I'm thinking about possibly connecting the outlet hose to a shroud around the evaporator to force the hot water to go through the evaporator, although it seems like it won't be an easy task making the shroud.

What do ya'll think, would it be worthwhile to force the liquid through the evaporator rather than just letting it swirl around on the back of it? I'm not sure if it will or not since I do have a pretty powerful pump (it makes nice ripples in my reservoir) and I do have the outlet on one side of the evaporator and the pump on the other already.

dont make a shroud but do what i did. Have the input in one corner and output at the opposite one. thats good enough i believe. I have my pump submerged so it will pick up cold water from the bottom.

Alright its time to revive this long arse post. Tomorrow i'm out to get my dehumidifier remounted. Its going into an All Plexiglass case. I'll stuff my motherboard and such inside too. I got a picture of my dehumidifier in its current setup from this guy @ uvalan4. I was there, and so was my water chiller :)

http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/sonix/dehumidifier.jpg


I would greatly appreciate any help or idea on what i can do to fix that problem with the high temps. I got the lowest temperature -19C while 000 got -38. Yes that was with NO LOAD. HELP MEH!

Tomorow.. I'll be finished .. and filling my system.. with propane none the less :) woohoo.. i got a 1/4 or 1/3HP compressor.. have no idea just know the starter I use for it is for 1/4 to 1/3 compressors..

well here it is, so far been running two weeks now.i would have been back sooner but new girlfriend taking up alot of my time.but cooler is running a iwill xp333 with a xp2100@2150mhz @1.82volts.load is -38 to -42 all the time.unloaded at idle -46.
running so cold i now have a problem being too cold .the processor seems to lose my l2 cache if i dont start up the pc and the cooler at the same time so the cpu isnt so cold at startup.in 30 seconds it will take my cpu down to -30.if i startup the cooler and computer at the same time when i reach the desktop i am already showing -20 in motherboard monitor and -38 or so on the face of the evaporator.motherboard monitor seems to be limited to -20c reading because i never show any colder temps and my loads only get to -16 or so shown on the desktop by motherboard monitor.

Bowman.. That's kick man.. I am just about finished tonite with my system.. I got a nice R-12 compressor from a frige the other night.. it's either 1/4hp or 1/3hp.. anyone know how much power an R-12 1/4 or 1/3HP compressor takes??

I seem to have some type of gelatenous blockage in my cap tube.. which isn't sounding to good..

I was running this sytem in an r-134a compressor which uses ester oil.. now that I am using the R-12 compressor it uses mineral.. well ester and mineral don't mix well..

I cleaned out my condensor.. I vac'd it.. ran water through it.. then I vac'd it again and blasted it with my torch.. so no water in it.. I use an industrial size vac pump as well.. so it really pulls the suck..

I also did this on the evaporator with the cap tube in place.. I was sucking through the cap tube though.. I hooked the vac pump up to the suction side of the evaporator.. so .. not sure exactly what is wrong.. I hope that none of the ester mixed with the mineral oil.. or some crap.. Unless.. There must of been some water in the cap tube.. came in through the condensor.. mixed with the ester oil.. and made that vaseline line stuff that is coming out.. not sure.. I'll find out more later..

Oh, 8ball.. before you waste your cash on a hold over plate.. don't do it.. You only need one of them in systems that cycle.. your compressor won't cycle.. there is absolutely no need for one.. Unless.. you already have it .. and or it was free.. It might help your efficiency some though.. cut down on the compressor load.. letting the compressor not work so hard..

Just a quick question.

Does the orientation of the condenser matter? Would I be right in saying that you want the liquid refrigerant to drain toward the capillary tube.

If so, are there condensers that are designed to operate horizontally, ie at the top of a case.

Cheers

well yes it make a huge differance in condensor layout.it you dont have the liquid running down all the way you will get pockets of oil and freon that will collect and pool up.that is the number one thing wrong i see with sysytems online.i made my condensor from a larger one and resoldered the tubes so i could mount mine horizontally.as you can see in my pic the freon and oil always moves down so it will collect properly in the filter and calpillary tube.if you dont you will get erractic temp reading.the temp might cool fine and then stop suddenly because so much oil and freon has collected in a pocket.that will drive you insane trying to figure it out.

PuNiSh3R that gel you see, is from the oil mixing i am sorry you found that out the hard way.that is very hard to get out of the system.first buy yourself a new drier.second you will need some ac flush designed to clean out the system.you will have to drain the compressor best you can and runn the flush through from condensor to evaperator..with compressed air.then use a oil like ester designed to work in r134 or use minerial oil for r12 or r22.these oil will mix slightly with each other(they are designed to mix slightly for change over)but they wont mix in larger quainities.

eh.. screw that.. heh. I figured it was from a bit of ester mixing with some mineral oil..

I got that glob out that was in my cap tube.. air freely comes out of the cap tube now.. I have no more issues.. heh

Any of your compressors make a really loud noise? mine does its kind of annoying me. Its constant too. Anyway to get rid of it? My compressor is mounted on rubber pads. Any would there be a problem if I put my evaporator (cap tube) vertically instead of horizontally? I am just thinking of a way to make it smaller. Mine is a water chiller and not direct freon cooling like bowman's.

BTW- Bowman, where do u live in VA?

WELL DOES THE COMPRESSOR SOUND LIKE IT HAS A TINY HAMMER INSIDE HITTING THE SIDE.IF SO YOU HAVE TOO MUCH FREON OR MOST LIKELY IT IS YOUR EVAPERATOR IS NOT LARGE ENOUGH TO FINISH BOILING OFF THE FREON.WHICH IS ALOWING LIQUID FREON TO RETURN TO THE COMPRESSOR STILL IN A LIQUID FORM.WHICH IS VERY VERY BAD.YOU CAN CHECK FOR THIS BY CHECKING THE SUCTION LINE AT THE COMPRESSOR AND SEE IF IT IS FROSTING UP OR COLD TO THE TOUCH.IF SO YOU HAVE A FEW OPTIONS.1 IS REMOVE SOME FREON FROM SYSTEM BUT AT A PRICE OF HIGHER TEMPS.2 INCREASE THE SIZE OF THE EVAPERATOR.OR LAST MAKE THE RETURN LINE FROM THE EVAPERATOR A FEW FEET LONGER TO GIVE THAT FREON TIME TO BOIL OFF PROPERLY.GOT TO FIX ,IF THAT IS THE PROBLEM BECAUSE YOUR COMPRESSOR WILL FAIL!!!UNLESS YOU FIX IT.

Yea.. liquid slugging isn't good.. I did that LOT of my 1/20HP compressor.. I had so much slugging that the damn compressor was actually below ambient lol..

Not hard to fix.. don't worry.

I just went through my system.. got some blocks out of it.. using the vacuum pump and my torch to heat the area up with the block.. so whatever was their melted or vaporized and got sucked out.. um.. I put in 134a earlier.. it did nothing.. So I figured I had a block.. the cap tube was fine.. I found the block in the suction line.. Might of been a bit of solder.. or flux..

So I am vac'in the system for like 15-20 minutes now.. then I am going to fill again with 134a and try it..

I got Johnston R-134a.. it is pure R-134a.. so I can put it in my R12 compressor with mineral oil.. I'll let you guys know how things go.. Planning to use mostly propane in the system then.. a tad of 134a to help stuff along.

Thought ya'll might find this link interesting.

and this one

Well.. Before I go and dump propane into my system.. I decided to test it out with pure 134a.. has no oil in it..

Well.. so far.. not good.. I have no cooling on the evaporator.. the high side pressure is low.. only around 100 to 120PSI.. the low side is in a vacuum.. between 10 and 20".. the compressor makes an odd humming sound too..

I guess it won't do 134a.. I don't know.. either that or most of all the oil came leaking out when I cut the system.. which is a good possibility.. when I cut the lines to get the compressor out a SHITLOAD of oil came out.. and then a ton of it misted out as well.. so really good chance that there isn't much oil in the system.. which would explain the high compressor temps.. I am going to stick in propane then.. see if I actually get cooling or not..

I took care of some blocks and leaks in the system.. everything is good now.. so I know I don't have a cap tube block or something.. just don't know why the 134a won't cool..

As u can see in the picture, there is water right next to the compressor. Its condensation. Right after the Compressor, the refrigerant evaporates and frost forms all over the tube right after the compressor. There's foam on the rest of the tube till it gets to the evaporator so i dunno if its frosting or not. But i think its pretty cold there too.

I just went back down and turned the sucker on again.. hoping.


HOLY HELL SHE IS COOLING!! WOOOHOOO!!!!!

It still has the 134a in it.. and it's workin! MUWAHAHAHAH!!!

temps?

Anyone know if having the evaporator mounted vertically will cause any problems?

22f coldest i've seen so far.. still tweaking.. going out to get more mineral oil

no.. mounting it verticly is no problem.. same with the dryer..

it's best to let gravity do it's work .. so try to have things setup in such a way that gravity helps.. helps to get the oil around.

I just got mineral oil.. got 12oz of it for $4.39 at Eckards..

I came home.. turned the system on.. got 9.9F in no time.. then the compressor started to make this humming sound.. and the temp is rising now.. That is why I think it needs oil..

my phsze cooler is almost done ill be posting pics of it later this week as soon as i get some damn shrader valves. glad to see everyones doing well. your stuff is still pretty sweet bowman!

Wiz, get those shraders at a refrigeration shop.. I got a local Syd Harvey store... Any type of industrial heating/cooling shop..

U guys think my 2500 BTU water chiller can freeze a 226w pelt? Right now condensation is a serious problem for me. If I do direct cooling without a peltier frost forms and nothing drips on my mobo. Except when i turn it off. So if you guys think a 2500 BTU pelt can freeze a 226w pelt i will go and get my chiller checked for pressure and refrigerant volume. Otherwise, i'll sell my pelt and use direct cooling.

What do u guys think?

Direct die phase change.. it will be HELLA lot cheaper in electric then that damn peltier! PELTIERS TO HELL!

Besides.. 2500BTU is enough.. what HP is the compressor? I would charge it with almost all propane and a tiny bit of 134a to add weight to the propane and to take care of the flamable propane.. You'll be set then..

Bowman is the expert resident on DIY direct die.. that is my next plan.. Next summer I'll probably build a direct die unit for the hell of it..

I am going to get my EPA green card probably.. costs 20 bux and u do an online test.. if u pass you get to print out an EPA green card.. that is good until you get the real deal in the mail.. That will let me buy shit like R-12.. R-404B I think.. which can be used in R-12 systems with no problems at all.. don't even need to flush it.. plus R-404B is on par price wise with 134a.. so it's good.. n cheap..

pun local hvac places around here only wholsale or deal with licensed tech/orginisations its a B

Wiz.. get your EPA green card then..

My dad used to work for a heating/cooling company so we can go into Syd Harvey store and buy stuff there.. pay in cash.. and use the account of the company he used to work for.. :)

We do have one local shop that will deal to people off the street.. just general stuff though.. not like R-12 .. shit like that.. and they charge out the ass.. surpisingly though.. I got my shrader valves their .. 3 for 3 bux.. Surpising they didn't charge me like.. 191834918 dollars for em..

http://www.refparts.com/Catalog/Majo...oid_valves.asp

There ya go..

Seems that their shraders come with the stems on them.. that sux.. I like my shraders with nothing in them.. I suppose you could take that stem out.. don't know.. maybe it's just soldered in?

That price is on par too.. Now that I think about it.. think I paid 6 bux for 3 shraders.. I forget.. I don't think it was 3 dollars for 3 though.. More like 5 or 6..

Oh n make sure you get the little plastic tool to take the needle valve out..