:) Thx m8!

Yeah, AMD is my way...kinda like it...(cost effective too!!!)

We're kinda outta sync here:p with posts...

Think I'll have to try to learn drawing in ACad... who knows, maybe CNC'ing in few yr's...:D (hope, hope...)

http://www.galaxydrill.com/drillsiz.htm

you will need to know the spec on the thread of the bolts.....


I most definitely do not just bolt the two plates together dry, it'l leake like a siv in that fashion..... there can only be GOOP. :D

but be careful with GOOP... it sticks like shit. you are going to have a real hard time getting the block open, once it's cured. the best way to pop it, is the use the tap, and screw it all the way into one of the fitting-threads, then just gently tighten, until it pops open, once that's done you can get a knive in and work the rest..... but for doing just from the side.... forget it... you are just going to ruine the side of your block....

Wow! That was fast info and answer to my both questions!

Thx guys!

the goop everyone in us is referring to, what the hell is it? some sort of glue, or silicone?

i'm gonna try finding some small shops. church ornament machiners seem to be the best bet upto now (i was amazed to find out)

btw for finding the barbs, i had to think and search. i was ready to do 150km's just to get 'em. finally it dawned on me that i could also chk the hydraulics and pneumatics store 100m from my work. eureka, barbs a volonté.

:) First thing on monday - repair the flat tire and search for some hydraulics shops!

THX!

About the goop, I was about to ask the same question. It's a trade name, there are different kinds for different materials, but what is it (monocomponent/two component glue, epoxy, silicone, what?)!?

i think the bathroom kind of silicone sealant must also work for that purpose.

btw puzzdre, ppl that sell brewery equipment are sure to have barbs, the lines that connect the beer tap in cafe to vat in basement 'can' be the regular hose barb type. one golden tip!!! print a picture from a hose barb, + the npt" and regular " list of what u want. because i don't know the cro word for hosebard, but i surely don't know the dutch word for it. and if u ask a regular hometown shop, they will definetely not know the word hosebarb. that expression went something like this; one picture shows more than a thousand words? lol

LOOOOL!!!!!!

I know *exactly*what you mean. There is no widely used cro word for hosebarb, so first it involved lots of other words and wriggly movements of hand trying to explain, so I bought one cheap pvc ordinary pipe fitting and carried it around with me, and asking for something like this, but metal, with threaded end, and ofcourse, bigger ID...Gained much more success judging the faces of the people working in shops, but the answers were all the same - sorry, no...and You won't find it, go to the machine shop, have them make some for you...

Yeah, different countries, same problems:p

btw, its been 2.5 yrs since i was using acad. this is pure fun. THX puzzdre for making me do this old passtime of mine again. in graduate school i used to have 6hrs/week acad for 3 yrs. worked 3 yrs doing acad cnc window arch designs + the cnc prg's to make those windows (wood), before moving to PC world.

Goop is a lot like silicone, it cures in open air, and it's very very strong once dry, so much so, that if you put goop into the groove ment for the o-ring, squeeze it shut, and let it cure, you will have yourself a nicely shaped, very strong elastic band. that is if you can get it to come out of the groove nicely....

Silicone work very well for sealing the blocks too, but I prefer Goop.

don't u get bored from hearing all the thk uz? well here's another one. thx

Until I have pic (later), I must say this: Drilling the holes in square pattern was fun. The result looks very nice. Drilling the holes in circular pattern was also fun. The result is somehow nicer and thrilling. Connecting the holes in square pattern was PITA but fun. Result will be pictured later. Connecting the holes in circular pattern is MAJOR PITA /#$$%#$@$#VERY VERY HARSH WORDS SPOKEN IN LOUDEST VOICE ##$%%##$@@!!!!!!!!!!!!!/

Now, do I remember somebody told me something about that?

Yes, I do.

GRRRRRRRRR...

Sorry, just had to take it outta myself, there's no point yelling to a cat...:mad:

They come in very small diametres (12mm~upwards if I remember) with a thickness of 0.5mm upwards. the arbour/holder that normal Dremel wheels use would work with them would it not?...

is it that hard to dremel in copper? i mean, i think i've dremeled 20mtrs through steel for my latest case. its not all that much fun, but doable.

Dremeling in copper is disc consuming. Wearing of those discs is great. Also, controlling the cut to be straight is not-so-easy. The diameter of the discs don't allow you to cut the connections between the last row and column (outer 'rim' of holes) without hurting the area without holes (outer full copper space), as #Rotor explained. I tried to make it with 1.2 and 1.5 mm mill bit, but I'm not so satisfied with the result.
Here:

Sorry for bad pic, but I cannot scan it better...:rolleyes:

In detail:

That is the result for square pattern, channels made with 1.5 mm mill bit, no xy table, just hands...

Now, for circular pattern (I don't have the pic yet, I managed to do 1/3 of one half of the block today) it is much worse cos' you cannot go with straight moves and do lot's of holes, you can do only three holes at max in one straight cut. Other problem with doing this with mill bit of small dia is that you must do 3 or better 4 passes for every connection between two holes to remove all the remaining copper, mill bits I have have cutting flutes approx 1.5 mm high, so you first remove 1.5 mm height of copper connection, than lower the drill/mill and do another pass removing another 1.5 mm and in third pass you can remove all copper. That's just between TWO holes. Now imagine how many of them are here...:cry:

Yeah, you can do some holes in line like in square pattern, but connecting circular ones would be killer, even with dremel...

why are u not happy with the result, as far as i can see the top piece looks great. man, u r almost there!!!

been looking around some
found a bench drill for 50€
1/4hp
220W
vice(100mm) for 16€

some design i came up with, but prolly way to complex to make...

what dia drill would be best, judging your xperience?

I'm the kinda bloody perfectionist, well, almost...I always expect the result to look professional, which in case of making something for the first time, is hard to expect. Actually, tomorrow I'll be perfectly satisfied with the result, and keep on going happy. It's just me I guess, I must have one day of dissatisfaction for the happines of the other days. Today is The Day.:rolleyes:

I'm pretty sure you'll be quite satisfied with the drill/vice with the price and the performance, at least for some time until something more complicated comes into the way. And the price is nice. I vote go for it!

Wow, design! Call it The Brain!:cool: Maybe not so complicated as it looks, but something on the connections between the holes - #Rotor's design is all about water taking the least resistive way to go, all the channels equally open for flow in any possible direction. This one you made looks like it would be more restrictive IMO, and with not equally distributed flow. Maybe to widen the connections between the holes as they are further from the center/inlet, to equalise it, or to open all directions between the holes. Also, I would make those inlet/outlet holes slightly bigger, I'm thinking for mine to be 12 mm inlet, 10 mm outlets.

Ofcourse, let's make them and see how they perform!

Good thinking!

Btw, thx for bringing me back on the right (satisfied) track!:p

well i mentioned the ID of the feed barb as 8
that gives u about 50mm² of water going through.

each side going to the outlet barbs has +/- 40mm² of openings for water to evacuate. so the outlet barbs won't be sucking at full capacity. but it does mean that the water hitting the chip area will flow +/- evenly in all directions.

rotor stated some times that for good performance it isn't always necessary to have low flow restriction. in this design i was hoping to tackle the lazy water phenomenon, and make the water go at all directions, instead of just going directly for the outlets.
someone else i heard state that it doesn't make sense to create a flow path with larger surface area than the surface area of the barb.

anyway, to come back to you being dissatisfied. is there anything you could have done better? holes u misdrilled, dremeled some wrong areas. i don't know, but i guess not. anyway, i wouldn't feel to bad about the dremeling being to difficult on your circular design.
when taking the easy/fast route;: if everything is finished and you mount the block, and you are sitting there enjoying your rebuilt pc some. u will start to thinkthinkthink whatif i spent some more sweat on working out a more difficult design, would i have gotten better performance? then before u know it, you will start working out that difficult design to c if it does perform better, and then u will have spent, double the amount of time for the same result. anyway, that how it mostly works for my twisted self.

im very curious to see how the circular part worked out. as i guess, your top isn't a mirrored version of the bottom part. so the heattransfer effect stated here, that lets the bottom pins transfer the heat to the top ones, as being almost made out of 1 pin; won't happen in your design. lot of turbulance i guess would come out of that situation.

anyway, forgot to ask, what dia drill would you use ideally (performance/ease of use)

cheerz puzzdre, and congrats again for having done what u did (+ draw me over the line to go the same route)

btw , chk this here out, haven't deeply looked into it, but seems mighty promising


http://www.tapmatic.com/tech_manual/index.html

LOL!

Exact description of me too. Congrat's!!!;)

For the circular pattern, I thought to make it mirror like (actually the two parts are the same), but I can also try to turn the top 180 deg and see how it performs not mirror like. I'll try it!

For the drill dia, for square pattern I used 4 mm HSS-super bit, and for circular 3.5 mm bit same quality. For 4 mm bit I went 4 mm deep, and for 3.5 mm bit slightly deeper, dunno for sure (accuracy of the drill press) something 4.25 to 4.5 mm plus the conical pit of the tip of the drill (I just measured the depth of several pits:D )

One thing for punching the start pits, don't be afraid to punch them good, the drill really start easily when you got the pits good enough (not just lightly hit to mark the starter, but create a starting point of no return:D ).

Very interesting and informig site that tapmatic! Goota look into it a little deeper (and do saves to HDD)

Thx again!!

PS: just a little pic of the mill bit I used to cut the channels, bottom one (1.5 mm dia), compared to middle 1.0 mm dia, and top 0.5 mm dia...

you didn't use dremel weels to cut out the chanels?

No, I tried dremelling the chipset block to see how it goes, spent two discs on couple of rows, than saw the disc arbor is slightly bent and decided to try mill bits on this piece. Tomorrow I'm buying new arbor(s) for dremel, and than we'll see...

the milling is way slower than dremel? the result sure looks nice


(btw, i was mistaken, thought your chipset piece was supposed to be the top of the circular design)

Yeah, it's way slower, and what I did could hardly be called milling, I was just using the mill bit to cut the copper connections, (plexy shield on my face, gloves on hands etc...) and moving the vice under the mill bit to cut the channel.
I just had to try it. Without xy table, it's PITA.:D

u need to explain me what pita means, read it everywhere, but haven't got a clue what it means.

puzzdre, the humanized cnc machine, lol

PITA = Pain In The @ss

Sorry to butt in!

YEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
LOL LOL LOL LOL!!!!
Man, I like it!:drool: Now to ask pretty pretty please pro/staff to put it instead my pro/uberGeek! Man!!!!

I just love it!!!

I'm pretty impressed. Gooooood thinking!!!!

PITA = pain in the a@@...:rolleyes:

back to real:
I'we been doing some dremeling today, and man, it's way way easier than hand cnc'ing;) . Bought new arbors and cutting discs (spent the discs already), but SATISFIED!!!! It turns out to be really good. Now I must go and buy more discs to finish the circular design, and then - straight to machine shop to barb those little gems! I'll be outta town at the end of the week, so I guess, the blocks should be ready for use next monday or so!

Btw, I'm still laughing!
Thx!!!

LOL! You're welcome!:D

ahh thx ppl, i'm upto speed in the latest and greatest internet slang.

shit, puzzdre, so u mean to say u already burnt 5 discs at +/- 10€. thats fooking fast.

aren't u gonna tap the holes yourself?

edit: I WANT COPPER BARS NOW, can't wait to start, looks like endless and endless fun.