:) Thanx Bob!

Think that my mother's Renault 5 with automatic transmission box will suffer because of this...;)

Nah. :evilaugh:

LOL, I'm sure you guys there wouldn't call 'em cars but toys, but the similarity is obvious: four wheels, some heavy boxes, bunch of wires, several sq feet of tin and (in some cases, cars 20 yrs old and older) a smoke barrier.
No, those blonde chicks sitting on the passenger side on the pics are not delivered with the cars, not even here. Trust me, I bought three bath tubs, and they all came empty.:mad: :p

Cheers!

My truck is 17 years old.... car before that was 19 years old and the one before that was 33 years old. They didn't even come with a used Blonde! :mad: :p

A renault5 with an automatic tranny? That's a crime! It must be driven standard, it's the only way!

If Im really pressed for a super clear finish, I use tungten carbide bits for a dremel, and mill the final passes on the edges, at about 2500RPM's. And you wont have to worry about any uneven edges, as you sometimes get with a polishing wheel.

Comes out so smooth and clear ........almost perfect.

I was wondering how long it would take you guys to figure it out;) , the gasket material is a dead giveaway.:D

How has it performed now that you have revealed yourself?
Also where do you get that gasket material?

it's about 1-2 degrees off my micropin block, I had to de-tune the jet's so the block could be used with the pumps most people use, Eheim 1046* minimum, recomended 1250* or higher. I'll offer a tuned jet version for people who have iwaki pumps or simlar. (though there's nothing stopping you from using the tuned version with a pond pump, it'll work, it'll just slaughter the flowrate, you'll get around 200-250L/h with a 1250.)

*or equivalent.

I also noticed that you were austailian, the company was also australian. I also noticed the L.E.Ds. It's your signiture. Why did you steal Ben's idea?

Ben's idea? this multiple jet approach is an evolution of my direct die cooling from last year if anything it's #Rotor's drilled blocks that I've used elements of.

Props for Big ben for publishing a similar design principle that I was working on behind closed doors.

Hey, no harm done!

But it was meant as a DIY design, because it's so simple to make. If you can sell it for ~$80-90 USD, all the best!

I need to get into that myself. Maybe I'll bug the resellers of JFettig's work.

Well I'll have to let the market decide if that is the right price;)

Your Radius block should be a good seller if it can be made cost effectively.

So what do you think I could get when using 2 maxijets in serial?

Also I have a 1"x1"x1/8" peice of silver that I could use but it is too small for mounting bolts through to use a gasket, could i use JB Weld or somehting Similar to bond them together?

I doubt it could be made cost effective, plus it will require a very strong pump. I dunno. Maybe I could sell it as a kit, if I can get a machine shop to make this thing locally.

I want to start a website first, and post a lot of info.

Extending the mounts isn't a big problem: use a polycarb top. As for sealing the block... I'd go with a 2 part epoxy that'll bond with the silver, and the polycarb (or acrylic). I'm not sure if JB Weld can do that. Anyone?

I don't know if this has been discussed below. Idea #1 involves a clunk of copper, lathed and the dimples or holes point inwards. A top piece has to be lathed to fit the base. This design is unecessarily complex but interesting.

Idea #2 involves a block of copper with the dimples drilled at an angle. These can be drilled using a drill press and round feed table or with a 4-axis cns with round feed table or a 5 axis cnc :D

The top needn't match the angle of the base in idea #2

Start your own thread:mad: :p

It's just a continuation of your own idea, doesn't deserve a new thread :p

If you want, I can delete it

...but this is a DIY design: keep it simple, OK?;)

Is there anybody who hasn't got a 5-axis CNC?

Seriously, all that is required is a round feed table and a sturdy drill press if you want to go DIY.

Pffft, my has 5.1 axis, actually .1 means it can travel through time, usually from the time of raw material straight to the time when I already messed it up and it's useless.

Should I disable the feature, or just go back to my drill press (no round feed table here)...

Mine is only 3 axis...:(

LMFAO!

A time travelling mill!!

Almost had a heart attack on that one!!

I didnt exactly catch that...? now Im confused....


Jon

Aren't a couple of your designs up for sale over the web? I could have sworn I've seen them recently.

oh yeah, one is kinda:p

casemod hasnt really sold any though;) they got 6 made for them and 6 for me, I sold 4 of mine:p thats about it. they arent super blocks, but are pretty good...


Im working on some good blocks. I have to order some copper so I can get to work on a copper proto(aluminum blocks dont outperform copper blocks by much;)


Jon

My adaptation to BB2k/Volenti Design
 

http://www.helmetofshame.com/vanderc.../honeycomb.jpg
It uses 10 nozzels 1/16" in diameter, the bottom dimples are 3/16" in diameter, The red area under the nozzle diagram is the CPU core and the Dark red is 2mm away from the edge of the CPU core.

I'm gonna buy this once I get some copper (1/8" thick) and buy my pumps (2 maxijet1200s)

EDIT: To get the pic to work, right click it, and choose properties. then copy and paste the URL into your nav bar. Sorry about the inconvieniece :EDIT


http://www.helmetofshame.com/vanderc.../honeycomb.jpg

Re: My adaptation to BB2k/Volenti Design
 

The pic didn't work for me, but otherwise, that's the way to go!

updated my pics they now work when you click on the link