Well, true, but that'll depend on the type of IC. With MOSFETs, temps can reach in excess of 100 deg C and still be nominal.

Either way, the point was that a 10 deg C drop will double the life component, and that still stands. ;)

Butcher, you'll find lots of info on silently mounting and cooling HDD's over on Silent PC Review (spcr.com) - they have a forum just on the topic of silencing hard drives.

Gooserider

I can say for sure it was the block that caused the data errors :mad: ... the drive is actually working fine... it just had errors that had to be corrected. Once the block was removed I didn't hear the heads "realigning" themselves (read: "banging" :cry: ).

I suspect had my tolerences of the block mounting been better with just one or two thousandths clearance on the spindle motor it would not have occured. :rolleyes:

I believe that the clamping force of that 1/2" copper block could EASILY warp the aluminum casing. I will be revisiting the whole setup anyway as I'm now ZeroFilling the drive to recover the low level format.

I will probably go with stacked drives and a cage made from copper with water passages on each side and a loop in the front to connect them. :shrug:

This will also save space in the case as I have a lot of tubing and a large reservior. Not to mention that I got an additional two drives to make the RAID 0 into a RAID 0 + 1. :D

Nothing like a near miss to make you appreciate increased reliability, huh? :D
On paper, 0+1 only has the reliability of a standalone drive, but I like the fact that it gives you a chance to quickly swap out a drive when one of them fails...
...I'm not so fond of the performance hit it gives when working with ATA disks. But it's still a nice compromise. :)

Bump :) How's the construction going ben?

On hold, pending more copper.

So much work to do, so little time...

I'll post pics of the progress, as it comes.

Glad to hear you're still going. Copper is expensive.

I just got mine, but I'm taking a different approach than you. I got some 3/16" plate for the top and bottom, and 3' of 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick bar for the sides. I figure I can cut it to length and make the middle "box" out of it. Then have a piece of the bar running down the center so the water has to move in U to get around the block. I'll post details when I get to it. It'll be fun tryign to solder all that crap together I suspect.

Im going to be making a hdd block soon, after ive finnished some others. Im thinking about how to do it. id like to combine this type of mounting http://www.spodesabode.com/content/a...hddnoise/print
with a way of silently cooling the drive enough, so that when its wrapped in foam, it wont overheat.
On my drives, currently mounted in a steel drive cage, the sides are not very hot, about 45c, but a few chips are about 65c

An update, since this thread is creeping back up...

I got the copper.

end of update. :D

The plan still stands though. The only regret I have so far is picking out the external walls of each block at 1/4" thick: they can be a lot thinner.

Lol, i see how you got your custom tag now :p

Im considering watercooling my hds so i can put them into an enclosure and finally get rid of that annoying whine. My only question is how should i put the hd's into my water cooling loop. I currently only have a CPU block, so should I just put it in series with that, or would a parallel config be better?

In series, definitely.

The pressure drop of an HDD block *should* be minimal, and wouldn't have a significant impact on coolant temp.

Otherwise, the heatload from an HDD is quite minimal (at least the heat transfered to the block) and so it's really not going to matter a whole lot how it's set up, but putting it in parallel, would cause a significant drop in flow for the rest of the system, so "in series" is always advisable.