:D
Burned 8 discs, broke prematurely 2. Did 3 halves of the blocks. Bought package of 6 discs for 2.5 Euro. And 3 arbors for 3.5 Euro. I'm not gonna tap them myself cos' I would have to buy the tappers and as long as I don't find barbs I can purchase, it's better to have all that made by machinists here. I'll buy the taps and practice a little on other materials and leftovers (maybe next month) but now I can't wait to see finished blocks. Also, need to buy some good big dia drill bits for the holes. |
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well, i'd like more to do it from a to z myself, but if it ain't possible for you, so be it. what i also found at diy store , was a 45-90° saw on a standard. looked to be for aluminum profiles. but with a little patience i thk it could also be used to cut up the bars. anyway, that should eliminate the drifting u spoke about when trying to dimension the blox with a hand metalsaw. shit puzzdre, in a couple of days, u will have new blox to show off. its been real nice of you to take pix all the way to the end. i learned alot. i know the original idea is rotor's; but his site provides essential info on the design, but this thread is basically a howto. |
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That saw on standard looked pretty good last time I wandered in tools store, but I'm not sure for the price. I found them priced from approx 35 Euro to almost 100 Euro. What I'm not sure about is should I rush and buy the cheapest one, or wait a little and buy myself better one. However, that will be the next tool in my cave...:) I really like doing this and making stuff, so I consider other people would enjoy it too, and I like to take step by step pic's to show the progress. I'd like to apologise to the people having to upload all the pics (I'm on the dial-up too:shrug: ) but that's the way I like it. It could be called a how-to, and that would be the purpose of such a number of pic's. I hope it helped. Thx. and now for something completely different - the pic's: first detailed grid of square pattern made with dremel: |
Second, the two halves of the square pattern block, upper made by 'humanized CNC machine'LOL,
and lower one cutted with dremel. Dimensions of the halves are 80 mm x 50 mm x 10 mm. They will be sanded more, and holes for retention and holding the halves together will be drilled (tomorrow). PS: while dremelling always wear protective goggles or similar. I had a face shield on all the time while drilling, cutting etc. Be careful with your eyes, you don't have spare! |
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ooops, here's the pic:
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jeez, the dremeled part does look sharper than the other. don't thk it will effect performance much, though.
those dimensions, arent they way too big for a chipset block? :drool: |
Ooops, I need to explain, I'm making two cpu blocks and one chipset block. Two cpu blocks are 80 x 50 x 10 mm, one circular and one square pattern. The chipset block is 40 x 40 x 10 mm and it waits for its turn to be finished...
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oki, understand now. will be nice to see if there is a benifit of one over another
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Yup, that's what I thought when started making them, but dunno about the comparision cos' one block being central inlet/ two outlets, and one side inlet/outlet config.
Also, how long does it take for AS3 to fully settle? The site said couple of days...I have no experience with AS3 so any info is welcome.. |
i wouldn't worry too much on the AS3 part. just put a drop on cpu, smear it open, and put the block on. its not like you're gonna burn up your cpu if you AS3 hasn't cured for long enough. i don't c any temp decrease after using it over a couple of days. in fact i felt kinda ripped because if u use the white 13 in a dozen thermal paste (generic) it looks to be as good as the AS3, and doesn't give u danger of shorting processor pins. anyway, i understand that u want everything to be as good as it gets, if u spent that much time on everything.
the thermal adhesive is very good stuff though. |
I FOUND COPPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
damn, didn't think it would've been that hard finding it, had to phone about 30 nrs to just find some in lesser length than 6mtrs. alia iacta est dunno if i've written it correctly, but it should mean that the dice have been thrown. |
Goooooodaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!
LOL, I think that aleia was jacta a long time ago, since you was modding that biggie case...:p Can u tell us the price? /damn, I got blood on my keyboard, was sanding the blocks and eventually sanded some skin off my finger... forgot how distracting is typing with less figers and staring to the keys.../ I'll post pics od dremelled circular block little later (I think I'll call it The Massacre, by the look of it:shrug: ) |
llooool, the massacre, sounds really, really cool
price paid for 100x5x1cm is 44€ (new) some pics would indeed be nice, what is total amount of times spent on 2 halves (fragnstein seems to have pulled it off in 5 hours, thats really sharp) |
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Wow, who ever considered copper to be cheap!? Also our hobbies...:D
The square pattern block can be made pretty quickly, considering that you got all the tools and accesories at hand and in right amount (not having to run into the store for more cutting discs etc;) ), for circular pattern I think it would take one third of time more (more drilling and cutting). Five hours total is pretty quick for punching the start holes, drilling, cutting, tapping and assembling. I think that it took me 5 hrs to get to this state of drilled, cutted and sanded block. Skills, skills... Now the pic, circular, massacred one: |
waw, the massacre maze to be more appropriate
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io puzzdre, got another Q for ya.
the bolts that are gonna hold the 2 halves together, what M are u gonna use. or are u gonna leave it upto the ppl that will assemble. |
I'm thinking of buying the taps (or tappers, what's the word?) today later, and trying to tap the holes myself. I'm gonna use M3 or M4, not sure yet, gotta find good bolts probably allen bolts. I found a set of tappers for approx. 6 Euro, think I'm gonna go for it...Knowing me, I'll try to tapper the holes before I try to practice on something else and screw somethin up...
But I must try it...:D |
so the bolt diameter is in case of M4, 4mm, the hole in the wb should then be 3.5?
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I'd use M4 or maybe M5, less chance of snapping a tap if it's M4 or bigger!, they are very hard but brittle!!...
M4 'Allen' bolts, with a rounded over head, or countersunk... |
what dia must the hole be, to be able to tap m4 thread in; 3 or 3.5mm?
btw, got some measures from here; http://www.fullermetric.com/Dimensio...ill%20Size.pdf what does the coarse and fine mean? |
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http://www.galaxydrill.com/drillsiz.htm a good one... :) |
thk u rotor, but are they also valid in european metric system. they use M to denote sizes for bolts, and i'd better get it right from the first time
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Been looking around the stores, but came back empty handed...:mad:
Found tappers for M4, the drill hole should be 3.3 mm, but they didn't have the handle for tappers so - nothing for now. Trying to find good quality allen bolts but found nothing - I really mean nothing, no 'allen' bolts of any kind, and the rest of the stuff I found (ordinary bolts) was of suspicious quality. Gonna look harder tomorrow. Been asking around for barbs, got some info, gotta check it (also tomorrow). Btw, I tried to remember the ISO number on the tappers and little chart with drill size for M taps, but all I remember is for M4 drill size is 3.3 mm and for M6 is 5 mm. She didn't remember it either. Maybe cos' I didn't ask her to.:rolleyes: I hate waiting.... Thx guys! |
METRIC TAP DRILL SIZES
Recommended tap drill sizes (for approx. 75% thread) Code:
METRIC COARSE SIZES |
thx for the info. thk i'm gonna go M4 then (find 3.3 drill bit first)
ok first half semi completed (done the holes and dremeling, no lapping yet) first pic is just the holes: http://users.skynet.be/donsole/wb1001.jpg second pic is a bit better quality; holes + dremellines http://users.skynet.be/donsole/wb1002.jpg maybe some stuff to consider; the guy i bought the copper from was a real craftsman. he said that copper is almost as easily cut as wood. so if u find one of those 45-90° saws, go for it. i also asked him about cooling while drilling. he said that that wasn't necessary in copper. all holes were drilled at 1800rpm (3.5 and 5.5 for mobo holes) dremeling was done at +/- 15000rpm (half speed) dremeling all that cost me 1/5 of a dremel wheel, so i guess that is almost ideal rpm for cutting such a soft metal. anyone got experience on cutting speeds in copper? edit: whoah rotor, thx dude,that is what was needed. btw sorry for ripping on your designs. its just great; bought the bench drill for 45€ the copper for 45€ ; 16€ for the vice, i mean, thats what a swiftech block without shipping would cost me in belgium. |
what is the difference between the fine and coarse sizes?
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AAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
Congrat's m8!!!! That was fast!:drool: Looks like you gonna finish your's block first! Btw, veeeery nice, even, distributed, all! Did you drill it on the balcony?:p Man! |
I'm honored by the amount of interest My manufacturing method is generating, Really I am.
But I need to point some things out to those that might think they are going to start making blocks and selling them, using this construction method. I have been doing this for a number of years, It started as a hobby and grew into something good. I do not mind sharing my knowledge and experience with fellow overclockers, But I will most definitely mind if someone goes and changes this method into a mass production scheme, with inferior production and methods, just to make that extra sale.... I developed this procedure, with high efficiency as the number one priority, number 2 was manufacturing and then only came profitability. Obviously this method favors all tree in a major way. other than that... I will help where I can. :) |
well rotor, don't fear me going into mass production. it would cost gigantic money to automise all that fun. thats what i love about this method. some low investments, and alot of fun hard work , and i hope i can make something that outperforms my maze2. if one would have to count all the hours, this block would have to be sold for about 250$ a pop.
well, i'm running ahead of things. i still have to do the other half and tap all the holes. anyway, i'm proud of the inventor helping us out. i'm proud of me and puzzdre and fragnstien for going for it. i wouldn't be proud ripping your idea to make big bucks. that said, it might be a good idea to patent some of that stuff (if its possible) rotor. because the big guys will prolly have less trouble picking up your idea. and they have the machinery to plagiarise it at max eficiency. at puzzdre, this was all done in the living room. i'm kidding myself that i will immediately clean up after i'm done. i was surprised to find out that it is not necessary at all to have a XY vice, it goes way faster if you just move the vice with your hands to the next hole. it is very easy to hold the vice manually, no clamping for me. that copper is really like butter. |
btw, now i understand why your circle design was such a pita to cut out with the dremel...
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