Yes jaydee, the block is partly inspired by your efforts. See the main thread here where I give you due credit.

How deep were your dimples though? I wouldn't exactly refer to the block's holes as dimples as they extend from the surface almost all the way to the base. I personally prefer to call them "cups".

In any event, the block you see is just an exploratory effort, the next cut of it will fix all of the issues that I've identified with it.

It is looking good! My dimples where pretty shallow. About 1/32". Just enough to where the full body of the drill bit started into the metal. I havn't done anymore real work on that concept but I do have plans to. In fact I got a block in mind very similar to the one you just posted.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV3/base.jpg
My first attemp at a render. :D I plan on making the middle peice just like you have there with holes to match the holes in the base. I havn't thought much about it lately though. Trying to get my mill setup and a Final version of REV 4.0 which will be REV 5.0. Glad your making progress on a version though!

Anyone here want to check out my thread for a somewhat similar idea? Pins instead of pits/cups/dimples that extend up into the hose barb. Thread HERE: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6599
Thanks guys.
-Zoson

I've been thinking about a pin-block since i saw rotor's work here, and when this idea was posted by bb2k and i saw jaydee's thread, i added dimples as well.. and why stop there, while taking inspiration i went on with using bb2k's "radius" idea with a circular block with center inlet, but i went for cathar's WW and went for dual outlets instead... ahh whatever, i think i get ideas from everyone at some point ;)

I want to build a block myself, but i have only access to a very small mill, a lathe, and regular tools.. So what to do of it?

2 mm traces cut about 3.5-4 mm deep, another mm in the dimples, and after that about 1 mm left in the bottom. Center inlet with 16 jets, and the outlets like in bb2k's radius.

Nice work guys: nice, simple, easy to build designs! I like it!

Looking forward to your other design, Cathar.

just finished reading all 6 pages. it is a really good thread!!

i really like the look of this design, so simple, yet appears to work really well.

I have a reasonable workshop at my disposal, good drill presses, lathes, gas/mig welding, but sadly no mill. but with this design i dont need a mill :)

cather: (or anyone really): how do you get your o-rings set in like that? do you have an o-ring in both the top and bottom layers, or was that just for the photo? where do you find o-rings that shape, or are they just flat pieces of rubber which are cut out?

i guess i could try and make a cut out for an o-ring with a dremel, could be hard but it should work

The O-ring groove is cut with a CNC mill. There are two O-rings, between the three plates.

The O-rings are circular (toroid) in shape when you buy them and they just fit into the channels. The O-rings I used are industry standard BS137 sizing.

Cathar it is a block easy to build but it requires of big heights of column of water.
what bomb is it using?
what values of flow does the circuit give?

Sorry, am having a little trouble understanding the exact meaning of what you said, but I think you're asking if it requires a high pumping pressure, what pump am I using, and what flow rates I see with that pump.

The block is less restrictive than the White Water. I'd put it at around a DTek TC-4 sort of restrictivity from looking at BillA's data on the TC-4. That may sound somewhat surprising, but it's true.

Using an Eheim 1250, I see around 7lpm through the block pictured with 2m of 1/2" ID tubing and a heater-core. I haven't tried hard to nail down exact figures but that's the sort of flow/pressure we're talking about.

I rebuild this one too. My baseplate looks similar to cathars, but its not build that accurate cause I dont have a mill, only a saw, a drill and two hands...

To prevent the streams from interfering with each others it tried to have little channels between the holes. the water will get into them after flowing down to the baseplate and leave the block through these channels. (I hope it will do ;) ).
I used copper for the whole block, so its quite heavy (more than 500g). Gonna test ist this evening.

Nice straightfoward approach. There's a number of other issues that also need solving/balancing, but for a DIY block, what you're doing comes pretty close to doing it the right way.

here is my new block idea that uses DIY impingent. it is not as diy as the other blocks but it allows for the jets to have more flow.
http://www.theforumisdown.com/upload...0103/infin.JPG

i think I will call it infinity

EDit: right click on the pic and choose properies,then copy and paste the URL into your nav bar

:mad:
GRRR, I wanted to post results now, but first i needed to close some holes in the block. I used such a saw for the for the channels between the jets so these channels are on the whole block, not only in the center: http://www.sign-lang.uni-hamburg.de/...R/L2/L2520.jpg.
To close them i wanted to solder a litte copper plate over the holes.
Everything worked well until now but here the trouble begins:
It took me nearly 4 hours (from 6 to 10 o'clock), but i couldn't attach these fu***** copper plates. Therefore i have 2 other leacking areas now.
I have soldered all my other copperblocks i have build yet and none ever made any trouble, but this one is that damn hard to solder because of its huge mass.
It took three beers and four filled camemberts to calm down but now I'm ready to start again. This block won't beat me i have already solved greater problems, this block just can't beat me!
;)

sounds to me like FUNK is getting beat.........


Shall we open a betting pool?




Just messing with ya Funk..... good luck!

Here is the design pic of my block design.
http://www.helmetofshame.com/vanderclip/Images/infin.jpg

http://www.helmetofshame.com/vanderc...ages/infin.jpg

I have a rotor style block i was thinking of drilling the 6 central holes(3*2) deeper by about 3.5mm and having 6 1.5mm jets into them to see if it improves performace any . The only thing is it is taking away from a lot of other aspect of the block. Worth a shot tho.

I was thinking last night about the shape of the impingement "dimples". When the bottom is cone shaped the water on the outside of the tube would hit the bp first and it would want to go toward the point of the cone. this would happen to all of the other minute columbs of water except for the one in the very middle which would, by this time, impinge on the columbs of water that have allready hit the cone.
this causes turbulence but turbulence above a thick boundry layer of all of the water.

Unlike the water impingeing on a flat surface which all of the water forces the boundry layer down increaseing heat transfer.

I am not a heat transfer specialist, but this sounds right, doesn't it?

You're essentially right, but keep in mind the angle of the cone. With a regular drill bit, it should be around 15 degrees.

The water is essentially going to still follow the path of least resistance, and because of the incoming jet, that path will be out-ward, so everything is fine. Water isn't going to collapse on itself, it's still a (mostly) imcompressible fluid.

So advantage of the dimple is surface area/ radius(raising the cooling affect) but it also lowers the cooling the cooling affect by in creasing the resistance of copper by having the area where the boundry layer is thinnest (a circle around where the jet is impingeing) ontop of more copper.

What i am wondering now is if you made a cone and a cylinder with the same surface area and the same minimal bp width, which one would perform better, I'm thinking the cylinder.

Also I was talking to Volenti, and he says that I should, if i choose to go the path of the cone, make a small lip around the edge of the cone that would cause more turbulence and bp strenght.
What do you think about his idea?

I agree, the cylinder should work best, for inpingement. something to remember is that we've got an inpingement effect as the flow hits the bottom of the cup/dimple, then all that's left is a fast flow, over (perpendicular to) the remaining surface, which in this case is the outer wall of the dimple/cup. That's a key to making this design perform.

The cylinder is harder to do, because it requires using a square cut, center cutting endmill, since the common drill bit will leave a cone.

I like the lip idea: it's a very small scale variation of Nicozeg's first waterblock (if I understand your idea correctly). It might add a bit of performance. The problem is implementing it:shrug: It would be far easier to round off the top edge of the dimple/cup, which might help the flow a little bit.

It's not my idea:p it's Volenti's. I don't think he means rounding the edges of the cone but pushing the drill bit down more than just the pointed tip but down to the cylindrical part to allow for it to create turbulence on the lip.

I am not sure of this because Volenti Hasn't PMed me back about this on the OC.au forum.

I tested my Block now. Performance looks good, but not great, just as I expected when I recognised that my jets are too big. 42 holes, each 2mm in diameter are too much for my pump to cause high velocity.
Here is a pic of the block:
http://www.wakuebau.de/bilder/kuehler/bb2k_cth_f.jpg

And a pic of the jets:
http://www.wakuebau.de/bilder/kuehle...cth_f_jets.jpg

here is my quick attempt before i assebled it.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/impinge2.jpg.jpg

this only took 3 hours to make with most of the time cutting the top.

you can just make out where i cut round the jets to make them like tubes like cathars version

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/impinge1.jpg.jpg

also it's sized for p4.

on tests it's performing about .5 C better than a maze 3.

Is that tested on a P4?

One of the frustrating thing I noticed with P4's is that once you cool them beyond some random point that is unique to each P4 CPU, then some P4's seem to stop reporting temperatures in a linear fashion. I know this is something that has frustrated Volenti in the past, and I have witnessed it myself. It's the main reason why I do my testing on AMD boxes, because they seem to behave more rationally (in terms of reporting temperatures) to high-performance cooling scenarios.

yes it tested on a p4.
i am using on old p4 1.7 and it's giving me stable temp readings but i do find it intersting that the maze 3 , fin style base and this dimple block all give results within 1C of each other with

idle temps of 28 - 28.5 and load temps of 30-31.5

room temp of 20-20.5.

probe temps are 21.6 idle and 23-24 load.

i do have a amd board with a 1.1 athalon but due to a leak on one of my test blocks it suffers from randome lockups.

My main rig is p4 and once i have a block i am happy with it will be installed in the p4 rig.