I do not believe a flare is necessary. They are tapered already. Insert them into a tapered hole. If the tapered hole was in 1/8" thick area of poly, then a matching 1/16" plate (with matching hole pattern) could be epoxied over to hold them in place (one dab at the four corders should do. Or maybe even epoxy each one in place. The tapered nature of the joint will be extremely strong so they should stay very straight.

The capacity is for the whole tube, you would only need the very tip.

Check my edit above g_f if you haven't seen it already...

hey G_f I was thinking of doing an idea like you are going to. Do you have a link to the tubes that you found?

I went to my local hobby shop and found some copper tubes that were Either 1/16" ID or OD (They where not clearly labeled but I believe them to be 1/16" OD)

Hi everybody !:)

I'm creating my first WaterBlock following Cathar's Cascade model.:) Actually, I'm designing the nozzle :
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse.png
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Tranche.png
It's composed of 61Holes (I've not yet chosen their diameter : 0.5mm up to 1.25mm:confused:). I hope 1mm is a good choice.;)Six of them are partially - 2/3 - Hidden by the pipe...

What do you Think about this design ? How it could be improved ?

thanks !:)

Welcome, or should I say: Bienvenue!

The design you presented is just the top, right? Assuming that the baseplate has the same pattern of holes, how do you propose to have the flow clear the area? Will there be tubes?

LeeJSmith made a similar block. We had to tune the tubes because the water was exiting faster than it was entering, reducing the jet effect. you ought to take that into correction ;)

Hole diameter : 1mm
"Cone" max. diameter : 1.5mm
Distance between two holes (centers) : 1.5mm
Distance max. between two holes : 12mm
Number of holes : 61 (6 partially hidden)
"Injection" pipe diameter : 12mm
Nozzle size : 20mm (cf. drawing)

bigben2k

Thanks !:)

You make an allusion about water evacuation ?

hi ben, webzeb

I still cant get the block to work any better with the smaller tubes.
to re-cap

I have a 3mm base plate with 2.5mm cups spaced 3mm apart. Each cup is 2.5mm deep with a flat bottom.

the tubes are 1/16x0.014 and go 1.75mm into the cups.

i have made a couple of changes since the pictures below and even made a new top to make sure the tubes are spaced the same as the cups and the tubes sit correctly in side them.


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/hexblock1.jpg http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/hexblock2.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/hexblock3.jpg http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/hexblock4.jpg

Yes.

You state that your "cup" diameter would be: max 1.5 mm. What's needed is the ID (inner diameter) and OD (outer diameter) of the tube (if any) that will project the water inside the cup.

To put it shortly, the hydraulic equivalent of the outlet should be greater than that of the inlet, so you have to make sure that the gap between the outside of the jet tube and the cup, is greater than the inner diameter of the jet tube.

Otherwise the coolant gets sucked right out of the cup, without any jet inpingement effect.

I think I should use copper capillaries : what do you think about this idea ?

That's what I recommended in the first place ;) Brass would be good too.

The only problem is that they can be tricky to cut: they will be crushed under a pair of regular scissors. I don't have a solution for that yet.

The solution i pretty easy.:)

Fill the tube with a steel wire, and them cut it with a tungstene cutter.;)

i used a diamond glass cutting wheel in a dremel. It cut's through the brass tubes i have very easy but you will need to file and de-bur after that is a real fiddly job i lost most of the skin of my finger and thumb in the process.

you can ge the tubes from here in the us. i get them from a model shop

http://www.specialshapes.com/brasstubing.asp

My design tuned with the modifications who seem to be needed :
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse2.png
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Tranche2.png
You can also see the opper entry tube...

I think you guys are putting way to many holes in these things. I just made one with 9 pipes/holes and it is working out very well. I just made the holes bigger to make up for the lack of quantity. With a 170GPH pump it is kinda restrictive but the temps are pretty good. I can only imagine what my Hydrothruster 500GPH pump will be able to do with it. Anyway will post more on that when I can get my damn capture card to work again....

How about building a "bathtub" for the block. A sort of watercooling the watercooling block.

Do you think this one could be better ?
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse3.png
19Holes (diameter : 1.5mm)

As long as it covers the area of the core of the CPU, it'll be OK. You can make it "future proof" by making it larger ;)

Good Idea.;)

In fact, I've designed it in order to cover the exact area of my tube...

And what about waste of charge ? Sprays' speed ? Efficiency ?

As Cathar pointed out, the block isn't flow restrictive, but works best at > 3 lpm (liters per minute). It'll run poorly under 2 lpm.

Yes, it's evident that this kind of WB need a certain flowrate...;)

But, how could we improve its efficiency ?

The first idea, is to drill the holes straight through the baseplate, for a direct die cooling approach.

Otherwise, all I was ever able to come up with, is this:

Allow me to modify the "poorly" word to "less gracefully". It'll still perform well, but it would appear that the "drop off" in performance is sharper than with an impingement/micro-channel mix design, ala the White Water. I also have yet to properly quantify the extent of this effect, if even it's possible given my testing equipment. I'm just extrapolating on what I'm seeing.

Cathar

As we can see for the LRWW in the Bill Adams' test ?

What do you think about my 2 nozzles ?

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse2.png
61Holes (6 partialy hidden)
Hole diameter : 1/0.8mm
All the holes cover an circular area of 12mm (I use 12mm tubing)

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse3.png
19Holes
Hole diameter : 2/1.5mm
All the holes cover an circular area of 12mm

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/Buse3.png
I made this one today, but with 1mm holes :
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/19-1.jpg
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/webzeb/19-2.jpg
I also made the same with 1.5mm holes.;)

And I made my firt model with 61 1mm holes, but I missed several Holes...:(

The holes area is only 14.9mm² !:eek: (if we considère that the real dimensions are exactly the same as in theory).

Is it enough to keep a correct flowrate ?:confused:

My system : BigMomma, Eheim1250, very long tubing (approximatly 6meters of 12/16mm tube)

You shouldn't worry about how the inlet is going to fit over the hole area: don't let the barb decide your design.

If you need to, make the inlet 3/4", and use a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer.

In fact, I want to use only a very restrictive area, just over the core.;)

With a very thick base (Direct die cooling seems to be dangerous and inefficient...)

Thats the reason why I use a low area.

But I designed several version of my nozzle : holes surface between 14.9 and 47mm²...

What's your opinion about this choice ?

Thanks