7 deg C Temp Drop in watercooling!, My Secret weapon!
I'm typing this on an old Athlon 900Mhz (@ 990Mhz) system with a home made watercooling system consisting of a waterblock pump and BMW radiator core.
I switched the machine on. Fraged for an hour did some surfing etc for another 2 hours and Motherboard monitor reported my temps as: Case 27C CPU 27C I then switched on my secret weapon, placed in front of my Radiator intake fan, and temps are now 7 degrees lower!!!! :D http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...en/TDsmall.bmp I think I'll let you all wonder what it is for a while :evilaugh: HINT: The secret weapon cost 300 Bucks (South African) and was bought at a nursary. I also dont have to worry about condensation. Can anyone guess??? :) PS: These can be considered Idle Temps. Will do some Burn in with Sandra shortly. |
Humidifyer?
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An evaporative cooler
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A very expensive spray bottle?
a water sprayer of some sort to spray on your heatercores? |
Anything that sprays water kinda negates the whole "I don't have to worry about condensation" thing. Cath is probably right, though I'm just going to say a big ass fan.
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I'm not to worried due to the fact that my heatercores are in a seperate rad box... |
I figured that curve would get thrown my way. By spraying down your cores you are essentially just adding to the heat capacity of the surrounding air, no? The evaporative effect helps for sure, but this is only a short term boost.
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a can of creamed corn?
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an air conditioner
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nikhsub1, Cathar, and MadHacker are all more or less right though: Its a Piezo-Electric mist maker. The small one with only one ceramic disk. You get bigger ones with 3 & 5 disks, I think,as well. Heres a LINK. At the bottem right of this page is a pic of the exact same one I got. The power supply consumes 30W but some searching revels that the Piezo-Electric ceramic disk is 95% efficient at turning high frequency Alternating Current into a physical shape change or vibration! So not much heat added to the water. Uses about 80mL/hour of water, if I remember the panmphlet correctly. My Rad is in a seperate enclosure underneath my case so non of the mist can get at my components. However the mist is all evaporated by the time it gets through the radiator. I just have clear, cold air on ther other side of the rad. I'm very tempted to duct this cold air into the case! The centrifugal force generated by the fan (220Volts!) keeps the centre/electrics bone dry! No power outages yet! :clap: More in This Thread :) |
300 rand is about $45, not that bad I suppose.
On a humorous note, I once stuck my finger right over the transducer on one of these devices and it felt like my finger was stabbed. :) |
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Suppose its almost like sticking your hand in a microwave? Some Screen Shots taken at about 2pm in a room that gets the afternoon sun. The mist maker was switched on during run 11 of Sandra Burn In when Cpu Temp had stabilised at 38C: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/Elliven/TDLHS.bmp Sandra Burn In Graph. Mist turned on at run 11 http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...en/TDLHMBM.bmp MBM during run 20 http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...ven/TDLH2S.bmp Sandra details showing the biggest temp drop I THINK??? that all the mist is being used up/evaporated with room for more in this scenario. Time to buy another mist maker!/ My CPU temp is at 29C with motherboard temp at 30C as I type type this. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29.../MistofSR6.bmp Here the mist is turned off at run 6 later in the afternoon=lower ambiant temps. I will post pics when the fancy cell phone arrives, but be warned: This is My test mule/backup machine and things are very much in the experimental stage! :) |
I'm glad somebody finally gave this a try. There was a discussion in a much older thread (can't remember where, or when - too lazy to search) about this same topic. The conclusion by some was that the piezo-misting would not work at all, mistakenly comparing this mist with the vapor produced by heating-element humidifiers. The piezo-misters are readily available with attached reservoir, and can be found at most stores - they're sold as humidifiers. These piezo humidifiers consume in the neighborhood of 12 liters or so every 24 hours.
As a note, the atomization and subsequent evaporation of water results in a very fine particulate which consists of the dissolved mineral content in the water. This, like all fine particulates, has been identified as a health risk (silicosis, I think). The only way to avoid this is to use distilled water. Soft water will reduce this white dust, but not eliminate it. . |
THX Huckleberry! :)
Proofs in the testing! I'm hoping someone else with an external Rad will try this to verify my results.... :) You just need a container for some water; put it in front of the intake, and pop in the Mister. As I have said before; The centrifugal force created by the fan/s keeps their centre/s dry I,m busy with CAD a.t.m. to build this into my main system with an old 50cc motorbike carb's float and Needle & Seat to keep water levels correct. The one thing every home has is water and electricity and only a very thin pipe will have to be connected to the plumbing. Will do some reserch into the health risk. Health risks in everything now days! :mad: If you look hard enough theres probably a health risk in eating apples! (Climbs off soap box) :D Perhaps a car air filter on the exhaust side, or a home water filter/softener system will help? |
id like to see that setup
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Having looked at your "softener" link above, you may already live in a region that naturally has soft water, making this whole issue less of a concern. |
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Will take photos tomorrow everyone. Have to get hold of a camera. :) I have to clarify the centrifugal fan story: If your fans are blowing air into your rad then you dont have to worry as the spinning side of the centre is towards the mist. If your fans are sucking then the stationary/ PCB side MAY** be facing the the mist. **: The mist in my system has evaporated by the time it reaches the Rad. so a sucking fan will have no problem. The design should be such that the mist is evaporated before reaching the rad for the best cooling effect. The pushing fan helps a lot to evenly distribute the mist/ cooled air to the Rad. It probably helps with evaporation too, what with all the turbulance. People living in humid areas should probably stay away from this: The mist wont evaporate/cool as much. Fortunatly its drier than a dope smokers mouth around here! :D :) |
thx dunno cant wait to see
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These are 2 shots taken with a Cell Phone. Note: This is my test, backup, Home made system: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/Elliven/Pot2.jpg You dont get more getto than that! :D Lets call it the experimental stage! The mist IS actually being sucked in by that fan pretty fast. The other shot is worse! :rolleyes: I can post CAD Pics for the other system design after the weekend. Going to Johannesburg early tomorrow. :evilaugh: :) //edit by pH: just fixing image tags THX pH :) |
thats pretty interesting i must admit.. only problem is the insane humidity in ur system..
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I must still do some temp measurements to see how much cooler the exhaust air is than ambiant. If its significantly cooler I may consider venting it into the case. I dont know that humid air will do anything to the components? Does humid air conduct heat better than dry air?? I know that the more humid air is, the less static electricity... whts the best way to say this? :) |
Me Likes!
:) |
I have started building a sepertate enclosure for my Rad. with a mist maker and cistern in their own tub.
Will put up a project log once the enclosure plate is bent and the pics start making sence to everyone. Pics :) |
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