Completely forgot about you guys.
 

Oops. OCAU thread: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...hreadid=123266

This is my new case installation. Previously I was using an Aopen HQ08, which when full probably weighed well over 20kgs, a bit annoying to shift around. This case was used for my first ever setup and still bears the marks of that setup and the installs that superceeded it. These marks are currently covered by duck tape . Which is why I didn't take photos of them.

Now to the pics:


http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small001.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small002.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small003.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small004.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small005.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small006.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small007.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/pippin88/case/small008.jpg

There is a fan and shroud hidden between the steel case front and the plastic front bezel (the case is an Aopen Midtower BTW). There is also a hole behind the motherboard to allow access. A few slight changes will be made, as well as possibly some LED's in the pump holddown (the holddown may not be that visible in the photos - sorry for any quality etc. issues)

For pump holddown see pic 7. The black cord used in various places is shock cord. Used on boats etc.

Any questions or suggestions?

Oh man
 

Duck tape quacks me up!

Nice and clean. I like the valveworks.

Where's the fan?

Your pump is severely throttled with that barrel-type 90 on inlet. Any chance you could use a copper sweep of as large an ID as possible?

Otherwise looks nice and neat. Do you have tubing pieces on the end of the valve's barbs? Why?

sorry pippin88
but pHaestus was too kind

your tubing layout is a hydraulic disaster

note to others:
do not use elbows usless no other solution can be found
and NEVER use a single miter ell such as that 90 on the INLET of the pump

an excellent example of handicapping an oversize pump

I think Pippin88 was going for esthetics first and foremost (correct me if I'm wrong), so I kept my mouth shut.

The rad, if Aluminium, is also a no-no (local limitations notwithstanding).

Looking at the OCAU thread, he mentions an air/leak problem at the rad.

aluminum rads are ok, just have to use an effective inhibitor - even when leak testing

but those 90s, mercy

BillA: if you don't use Water Wetter anymore, what do you use anyways?

Personally, I'd rather avoid the galvanic corrosion, as much as possible (personal preference?).

Well actually all the 90s on the valves could be a "nonissue" if he moved the valve right to the T. Then they would be closed off most of the time anyway.

pHaestus
it is, as you pointed out, the one on the inlet that is the 'big' problem
and there are several on the pump discharge that serve no purpose
(set the pump vertically with its inlet 'up' ?)

Ben
I no longer use anything except C-G Simazine as an algaecide
but if I had aluminum in my system I would use 15% antifreeze

NASTY stuff!

How do you dispose of it?

How did I know it would be something obscure and hard to get...:cool:

lol
any aquarium store
the strongest is "Algae Destroyer Liquid" (a 100yr supply for $9)

EDIT: oh, you were refering to the antifreeze . . . .

I think that Ben turned up agriculturally common simazine pesticide. Probably similar in chemistry, but much differently concentrated and packaged at the local aquarium store than at the Coop...

Yep:cool:

Pesticide/Herbicide, bad for fish (in that form).

Probably relatively harmless in low concentrations... but I'd take some precautions anyways (i.e. don't drink it, not that anyone would:rolleyes: ).

Ok ok, calm down.

Billa, I cant set the pump Inlet, I don't think, because for the 3 taps to work, you have suck a full stream of water to the pump, if there is any major air in this, the pump will stuck pumping properly where the air gets to it.

The reason for the Elbows on the outlet side of the pump it because there was no way I could get it to get to the RAD.

The RAD is a 5cm Thick Little Arse from Cathar. Full copper, It just looked a bit shabby after all my playing with it (Was never painted before) so it received a quick coat of "Chrome" spray paint.

The Fan is tucked away in the front bezel, with a shroud. Both the metal in the front of the case and the plstic have been cut away to allow airflow.

Bill, would a sweeping elbow be good enough for the Inlet rather than a sharp elbow?

I'll also be either getting rid on an Elbow on the GPU block and using better tubing, or getting a 45 degree adaptor to screw into the block, rather than a 90 Degree one. (Though at my local truck plae they want 5USD for just the adaptor :eek: )

The entire case setup has been based on compactness, not asethetics.

I shall have a look at the getting the pump aligned in the other direction, so that it lines up with the 3 tap system and only needs 1 elbow on the outlet. However this may not work lenghtwise, and also it might be hard to get a decent pipe run from the far RAD barb to the CPU block.

Also I might get my hands on a metre or so of Tygon, which I think *should* be able to do some of the curves my EHEIM stuff couldn't.

I got rid of the air leak, it was in the middle tap, one of the epoxied joins must not have been quite right. A bit of silicon has fixed said problem.

As I said on OCAU, I'll be redoing a lot of it in a little while, this time with decent strong epoxy instead of shit cheap stuff for a start.

EDIT: Actually is was all just a plot to give Bill a heart attack :p :D

When filling and emptying, I've occaisonally got a little taste of radiator fluid (Diluted heavily with water). Lets just say I have a spit jar handy as well as a nice glass of something with strong flavour.

For what it's worth...

I don't think that the sweeping elbow will help. The problem is that the diameter of the inlet is small and restrictive, and happens to be at a critical point in the loop.

If you could do a pHaestus style mod to your pump, you'd be set: attach a PVC bushing to the pump housing, where the inlet is of a diameter that you can use.

So If I could stick a much larger Inlet Elbow on(I believe you want to drop pressure or water velocity or something?) would that be better? As default, the pump (EHIEM 1048) comes with 1/2" barbs on both inlet and outlet, but the thread on the Inlet is much large.

Another alternative I have would be to build a little sealed res to sit straight on the pump inlet, which might help a bit?

Like this you mean?

http://www.procooling.com/~phaestus/respump.jpg

How does the water get into the damn thing? I presume he put a barb or something in the side of it?

I might be able to get an Elbow like that PVC, stick that too the pump, and then cap the end and stick a barb to that, or something.

I'd say your right about flow rates Bill (as usual)

:(

I did a little rough test, and I'd estimate flow rates to be about 130 - 180 L per hour. This running through the taps to the outside of the case (No straight through, so another 2 90 D bends on each side of the pump). So I'd estimate flowrates might be 160 - 210 or something.

I also borrowed a Cyclone 5, which generally performs about 5C (approx) better than my Surge, or so I've been led to believe, very little change.

I'd say Im getting bad temps due to my low flow rates, and also Im dropping a fair bit of possible airflow through the rad due to the pump and then fact that I've only got a shit shroud, which is restricting the fan.

The inlet on that thing is actually right into the elbow (but I would have done it another way). Check out pHaestus' log for more pics. I'd put it either in the clear acrylic (if you're confident that you can seal it), or through the top.

If your max flow is ~200 L/h, that's roughly 50 gph, which is on the low end of an average rig. Start straightening things out!

Do you have specs on the pump? What size tubing is that?

The clear acrylic wasnt trivial to drill and tap. PVC much easier.

You tapped acrylic? Why? I agree, drilling into the side of a tube isn't easy.:(

I'd simply make the smallest hole possible, and use epoxy. If it still leaks, use Goop.:p

No I decided against it because I knew it would be beyond my tools. Ya nothing looks better on clear acrylic than gray epoxy :)

EHEIM 1048
600 L/H
1 m head or something.

Nice and reliable, the 1250's little brother.

I'll be trying to line up the pump so it lines up better, hopefully only one elbow on the Outlet side, and a straght run to the 3 taps.

Im going to grab a PVC or Copper elbow (Probably PVE due to cost of copper) and goop it onto the pump intake. I'll cap off the other end and glue a barb/spigot into it. This is if I cant get the fiddling with the pump right.

Would it be better to use a short lenght of PVC on the pump, so that the Inlet is not resticted by anything?

Also I popped down to the truck shop down the road. They wanted $10 ($5 US) for a little 45° male - female adaptor. (Was going to put on GPU block

I'd use a socket-to-thread adaptor (PVC), then screw in a reducer to whatever size hose you use.

That's what I did with my airtrap, and it worked great! It was a cinch to convert from 1/2 to 3/4.

Alright, Hope its not hard to get that size stuff.

Another Option I just thought of for this sort of stuff is those electrical boxes that are often used for underground or on fences. Little white things designed to accept conduit and have a screw on lid.

Come in T shapes as well as straight through for joins etc. You join the pump to the screw on lid/access thing.

I did a test today.

Undid everything, and setup the whole system using no elbows. The pipe length might be double approx.

No change in temp.

I think my Rad airflow is seriously hapering performance, as even 1.8V (Tbred) with a C5 is pushing my cooling ability. So Im going to redo the shroud and also test with two fans in a push pull config.