Well I guess I can show you my new block :)
 

Well after about 2 months of perfecting my machining methods and optimizing my desing in theory, and then making different prototypes of slightly different dimensions of 1. fin height 2. base thickness and 3. fin width. As for inlet opening I made it for normal aquarium pumps with aprox 1.5 m of head. I can almost say that I have final design of the block, I need to try two more changes. I did play with only 1mm thin base, but it wasn't as good as 1.5mm on tbred core cpu. aprox 1-2 °C higher load temps. performanse of the block is very good. On a palomino core cpu @1980 MHz @ 2.15V and water temp of 20°C my folding load temps are ~ 33°C measured by 8k3a (on die diode).
Anyway here are the pics.

http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20004.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20005.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20031.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20016.jpg


Block was tested under 4 bars of water preasure for 5 hours and o-ring sealed perfectly.

Here is another version of my block in action

http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20034.jpg

It's hard to tell from the pic , but is any of the liquid actually flowing through the channels.. they look rather thin.. --bikr

might be a bit tricky morphling1
but try to ramp that return channel transition
looks good, but be careful about 'too thin'

Gr8 job! I had the same idea about joining the outlet barbs but you beat me to it. Does the central cut through all the channels help? How high are the fins?

There has to be! It looks to me like the top peice is flush against the top of the channels forceing the water to flow through them. Very nice.

ahh.. I see.. I wasn't sure if there was a slight gap or not there.. Very nice job though.. =)

is there a nozzle increase the speed?

All I can say is WOW!

:cool:

I second that!

I guess you have the block on the same rig as previous block...How many °C did you gain? Still with two MJ1000 in series?

No words...just expressions...:drool: :drool: :drool:

this is a waterblock. waow. i want to tatch (lol...spelling) those minimalistic fins :)

Morphling1, how does it go with cnc-converting-projekt of yours?
Tell me all about it!

Looking very snazzy morphling1!

First thanks everybody
@Bill I need to find the way for that, but I will look into it, but it's not that huge anyway 0.5mm. As for too thin yep I know :)
@ Hara that chanell cut is only 1.5mm deep it was only ment for improving turbolence a little and flow distribution to outer channels. My method of measuring definetly can't pick that kind of details, heh even loading program fluctuate all the time so I can only tell about average on longer period, and in that longer period I can't hold my water temps constant :)
Channel height depends on a model from 3.5-5mm like I said still testing.
@ m3_arun see avatar and I made it in two dimensions too so again still some testing for me, lots of combination left to try
@ Puzzdre, currently with one MJ1000 other started making some noise, so I need to check the impler next time I take everything apart. Gain from before was more then 5°C or more then 50 MHz of stable oc.
@ ChrionN, damn you had to remind me of that, no project on hold, I found out that I can make lots of thing that I would have quite some problem making with cnc, because my tooling and work pieces handling isn't automatic, and because I don't realy make lots of block (1-2 a week) I rather enjoy making them by hand :D but I will definetly finish that project.
@ Thanks man, you were inspiration to realy started me thinking on machining process, one of my older blocks had something I could barely call micro fins they were made with 2mm bit and I broke two of them before finish it, the results were good but not that much better to justify the cost of tooling, then I saw your block and how they manage to make those fine channels, so then I realy started thinking again how could something like this be made by me, and this is the result with matching performanse boost :)

FINALLY!

That's excellent work, Morphling1! If you're down to a 1.5mm baseplate, I think it's an indication of an excellent block. Looking forward to seeing the results of your further refinements!

You've out-done yourself this time!

Awesome job Morph!!! Now we finally see the block thats in your avatar. Very nice temps.:D

Very very very nice block.

Very good work.

How deep (or shallow:D ) passes you have to do with that 0.6 mm bit? I have one mill bit 0.5 mm bit in my hand and I cannot stop admireing the job you did with something small and fragile like that!

RESPECT!:p

Puzzdre, I didn't use bits :D I use hss cutting blade, after I made holder for it, and I went in 0.5mm passes

morph, whats the shankdiameter of that small bit? I saw 1mm endmills but those where 1mm all over. I haven't seen any that small with 6mm shank...

ChrioN, I have several mill bits 0.5, 0.8 and 1 mm dia, all with 3 mm shank...dunno for 6 mm, got one 2 mm dia with 5 mm shank...all made by Jabro...

@Morph: even more RESPECT!:p

I don't know were to buy those "endbit-fasteners" though...
It seems like "ER" is the new standard...dunno if I can have those.
I got a ISO-30 "cone"...and the smallest fastener I got is 6mm.

I have a catalogue, where I can order up to 1mm bit with 6mm shank, made by Garant, but those are special order so around 14days of waiting period.

Morph, congrats on that uber new CPU btw.

Block seems to be doing its job very well.

Morphling1: what was the diameter of the blade you used?

Oh yeah the block is doing super job. Two days ago I bought tbred cpu and my current block is optimized for palomino core as the base thickness is only 1mm, for tbreds I need to make it a little thicker to spread the heat from that small core. But check out this :
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&threadid=8149
And I still believe I can do better.

bb2k, I use 32mm diameter blade.

:eek:

That's a GREAT OC !!!!

WOW...can you pls. post a link where I can check the stepping of amd's?
PLS?:D

can all the tbred b's be unlocked as easily as the 2200+ and 2400+?

Puzzdre, if you can get this exact stepping than it will be great, other starting with J don't look that good, but still 2GHz on air is achievable with most tbred B's. For 65$ this is the best possible deal I ever made, and I got on the table waiting to be put in old 8kha+ mobo as soon as I made air cooled heatsink :)
g.i.amour , all lover speed (1700, 1800+) tbreds have unlocked L1 and L3 bridges so they are completly unlocked, other have L1 unlocked so up to 12.5 they are all unlocked, above on some kt400/nforce2 mobos, for other you have to connect last L3 bridge.

thx for the info morphling...

chked the local store.

they had all tbreds with axdadkt3c, with second line commencing with R

so i guess those were all tbreda's

will check in often.

big thanks goes out to overclockers.com for pointing us out to the real oc champs.

What you just wrote is ordering code, and this does not tell you how good the chip is
That second line is the stepping and if the first five letters end with B, that means it's a tbred B
Here is how ordering codes looks like on differnet cpus
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Benchmarks/amd.GIF

and oh yeah stepping that start with R are usualy the worst overclockers

You rock ? :cool:

I have made a new thread about you fantastic OC...

Wild Thing