Micro pin block
 

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_1.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_2.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_3.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_4.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_5.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_scan.jpg

The copper base is 50mm x 80mm x 6mm, I milled the copper around the center "island" to a depth of 4mm (leaving a 2mm base) the center was then sliced up with a mitre saw on a modified jig, leaving square pins and channels ~1.1mm thick/wide.

The 20mm thick perspex top has a 4.5mm section milled out of it to accomadate the center on the copper base, a center slot to distribute and accellerate the wter flow into the pins. (0.5mm to allow for gasket thickness and to ensure that the copper pins are firmly against top of the milled out section of the perspex when assembled)

The base is secured to the perspex with 8 m4x20 counter sunk SS bolts with threads tapped into the perspex.

and of course with the now standard issue blue led's

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_led.jpg

nice work volenti; from afar it looks to be a real performer.

u r also one of those ppl who can't stick with their WB for longer than a few months ey...

the led job looks really pimp, congrats

yea It should end up being pretty good, I'll have to wait untill the gasket settles in and then lap it, I wanted to make the base even thinner, but even as it is it's flexed slightly from the machining pressure (hence the 20mm thick perspex top)

I'm constantly fiddling, can't leave anything alone, my frinds call it a sickness:rolleyes:

WOOOHOOOOO!!!!

This is one outstanding good looking wb!!!!

Should have engraved somewhere: Another fine product by Volenti!:D

This is the common case...Not to be worried about:p ...Believe me, I know;) ...

Wooooot!!! Congratulations!

Just curious, what are you using for gasket material - didn't see much in the pics.

Not trying to offend... but isn't that basically White Water, with the micro fins cut up? Wouldn't that leave a lot of no-flow spots?

I like the blue LEDs. I'll have to add them to Radius.

It's original. It isn't like a white water except for the slit.

Awesome precision job with a mitre saw, what kind of setup did you use?

There's something I dont understand: If the fins are 4mm high and the perspex pocket is 4.5 mm deep plus 0.5mm gasket, there's one mm of free space over the fins, is impossible that the fins are firmly against the top as you say.

For that to happen, the gasket thickness need to be substracted from the pocket, leaving it at 3.5mm depht.

there's no gasket shown in the pics, still working on the best solution, worst case I'll simply use a silicon based sealant.


try designing a high performance water block, that can be made with "average" workshop tools, that doesn't end up resembling the WW in some way, believe me I tried, and I couldn't come up with one.

Visualise what is happening water flow wise in the pin area, focus in on a pin a couple of rows back from the jet impingment zone, look at the shadow area behind the pin, do you really think that you'll have a little bit of dead water just sitting there? having 0 interaction with the very fast flow of highly turbulent water streaming past 1mm either side of it?

This is the setup I used;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/mitre_saw.jpg

It's essentially the main working part of the mitre saw grafted onto half a X-Y cross slide vice, which is in turn held in position with my big workshop vice. That allows me to make a cut down to a fixed depth, than simply wind the peice over a set amount and make another cut, and so on...

Ahh sorry I got my self confused with my own measurements, the milled out part in the perspex is actually 3.5mm deep, which then allows .5mm for a gasket with 4mm high pins.

:drool:

i guess we can now start a poll of the most humanized cnc machine.

That beats even my human analog control machine :D
Great job Volenti

I'm impressed with the way you made that block man, great job of making use of what you have.

When will you have it mounted? Looking forward to seeing how it works for you. A really good looking block, and great pixs.

Nice Volenti!!! I never even thought of using a miter box, and the blue LEDs are a nice touch.

I think with the success of Cathars WW block alot of people will put this idea to use on their blocks. Hey if it works, it works right?

I've got it all sealed up and installed now, obligatory pic;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/pin_block_sys.jpg

I'm getting a bit sick of the ghey temp readings these P4 mobo's give though, you seem to get down to a certain level and then hit a "wall" where nothing you do makes any difference, and you end up with no reported difference between idle and load and stupid shit like that.(which had happened with this block as well as my last "reference" block, and the previous mobo)

With that in mind I've ordered an nforce2 mobo and an XP 2100, seeing as the block was designed to fit that platform in the first place, and we may actually get some meaningfull data out of it.

I'll update when the new platform arrives.

Nice job! You do have a lot of time on your hands...at least you're using it to make cool stuff.

No, you're right, but only because the pin's shadow isn't in a straight line with the inlet and flow direction.

You could try the same pin pattern, but made from 45 degree cuts.

SWEET! Those are the size of pins I wanted to eventually put into my Lemon Block I made so long ago.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/lemonsig.jpg

I watched the water flow while the air was bleeding and there is not much dead water in my block. Water swirls around the pins real nicely into the outer channel and then out the outlets. Worked just like I planned it to which was a better than I was shotting for. Future revisions will have smaller pins and they will either be round or triangle shaped and not nearly as high as I have them now, and in copper.

I like the way you made that block with the hack saw! Very nice! If you use silicone use RTV type. It's all I use right now. Works pretty good. If it is good enough for cars it is good enough for a water block IMO. :D

very nice wb Volenti, with your usual dauntless execution

for ref: crosscutting the fins was suggested re the WW,
crosscutting will generally improve the convection, tons of info on this related to hsfs

Is there any support for the pins that are directly above the cpucore? If your base is only 2mm i wonder how much pressure it can take... Extremely good job btw given the tools u used :)

Good looks and good function with reguler shop tools.

IMPRESSIVE !

the pins butt up against the bottom of the milled out section in the perspex, should be enough support, we'll see when I get it set up on the amd system.

Any progress on the AMD system? :confused:

bah I'm still waiting on the gear to arrive (suppliers out of stock), allthough australia has some great beaches, living on the ass-end of the planet has it's downsides...

No problem. Just anxious to see how that is going to turn out. :D

Any word yet from the supplier on your motherboard?

I have all the gear almost ready to go, just doing my standard 24h leak test, I'll post an update tonite when I fire it up.

yay sounds good :)

Ok an update;

Ok, I've got an ASUS A7N8X deluxe, with an XP 2100b (AIUHB 0302TPUW) and some various sticks of ram.

so far I've got it up to 2340mhz with 1.7v (13x180) using a 256meg stick of kingmax pc2400 in sync mode.(relaxed timings)

as I feared the ASUS probe software only uses the in-socket thermister, so it's largely useless, however from my testing it looks like the bios uses the on-die diode, so there's hope yet that there's a program floating around that can read it from the bios. (if anyone knows of one give me a buzz)

but for shits and giggles the ASUS pc probe reports a load temp of 5-7 degrees (c) above water temp.


I feel that it has some more left to give, however this ram is definitly at the limit and the mobo refuses to boot if I try to run the memory out of sync (at this high FSB) so I'll have to get my hands on some better ram

update, I've found out that MBM with an updated DLL can directly read the t-bred's in die diode, so far so good.

After aquiring an older stick of corsair XMS 3200 (cas 2.5) I've settled on speed of 2.362gig, 175x13.5,1.85v for the waterblock testing.

The setup is an iwaki MD 20RZ pump with evaporative cooling and a 20L res(with my airconned room temps stay pretty constant)

The fist thing tested was the micro pin block, still in "original" condition from when I made it despite thinking of ways to improve it in the mean time (that will come soon)

With a water temp of 22c degrees the (reported,MBM) idle temp was 29c and load (using cpu burn) was 34c.

Next was my all copper "reference" block, which is based on the WW principle, but with the channels turned 90 degrees.

it handily outperformed the micro pin block, with the same water temp, it's idle was 23c and load was 27c (obviously the on-die diode is reporting a temp somewhat lower than in reality)

With that evidence in hand, I performed the previously thought of mods to the micropin block , pin area was reduced to an area about 2mm larger than the core of the t-bred, 7x6 pins down from the previous 13x9. I also filled either side of the slot under neath the centeral barb with epoxy, reducing the size of the inlet from 3mmx21mm to around 3mmx6mm.

Now I have a far higher volecity jet that is better focused on the pin area, and the removal of the pins outside the "critical" area over the core (where they're doing next to nothing) allow for a more un-obstructed water flow away from the die area.

Now to see if I made it better or worse :D

The results were nothing short of impressive, it went from loosing to the reference block by 7c, to out performing it by 1c

not bad, not too bad at all:)