More homemade blocks: CPU & NB
 

It is getting too hot here, and I wanted to take some pic's of the NB block before I install it, so here they are:

#Rotor style, plexy top (yes, I know about the cracks, but I had to try it...;) )...

Not finished, not polished and not sealed...

Plexy is a bitch to drill, especially with thick drill bits (this one drilled with 14.5 mm drill bit, than tapped to 16 x 1.5...

The copper chunk is 4 x 4 cm, 10 mm thick, 4 mm base plate, holes are drilled with 3 mm drill bit. Dunno how it performs, but must install it soon 'cos I want to see if this 8rda+ will hit more than 192 fsb with it...

And here is (still in pieces) cpu block I wanted to make... Started drilling the 'channels' with good quality 1 mm drill bit, broke three of them quick, than took a dremel and made the channels...Crappy, dunno if this will live to see the installation...

Here is the closeup of the base...
Sorry for the crappy pic's, I took 'em with borrowed Sony video camera, couldn't find the better digicam...

If someone is interested, here's the 'template' for the chipset block:

Should be the right size for print, if someone needs better pic, I can mail the .cdr file (drawing was made in Corel).

Nice job!
Only 1 question though....How are you going to clamp the hose on the barbs with them being so close together on the block

Looks nice, does it preform (seems like a good idea)

Thx!

The actual distance between the barbs is little less than 10 mm, there's enough space to put the hoses on them and clamp them with metal clamps, provided that screws on the clamps are on the outside of each barb. Block is small, couldn't spread the barbs more with plexy top (maybe with copper top and soldering I could gain some 2 mm more).

Dunno how it performs, got one similar on my cpu, works great for few months now...Think that for NB block, this would work just fine...:cool:

Hi,

Looking very good :eek:
I'm going to do the very much same thing next month.

I saw that you don't have an o-ring there, would you be worried about leaking? (or are you going to use silicon sealant?)

Thanks.

:D

Pardon me for saying this of my own design, but that block of yours just ooze extreme high performance out from everywhere.

I have no doubt

Very sweet!. I tried the same thing but had to demolish the pins cause they were awful :p ...

What's the coup on the CPU block?. Had it running yet?. temps?, impressions?...

A Word from a Master.;)

Thx!

wywywywy: yes, silicone will be the sealant. Think I'll have enough free time today to sand the block and seal it. Gonna try it this weekend (I hope:p )

MDM: CPU block is 'in progress', the idea was to try to drill channels with 1 mm bit, but it's just too hard on crappy drill (drill bits just snappin' like hell, even on the highest rpm that drill can achieve:shrug: ), so dremelling it 'by hand' gives less adorable result, and even less precision (especially in depth of channels). At the moment, depth of the channels is 3 - 3.5 mm, which is enough to try it (copper plate is 5 mm thick), but just looking at the block, think it's gonna be Restictive, with capital R.:)

I still haven't tried to polish the plexy edges with my pencil torch, and copper needs sanding. I'll try to finish it and try it soon...

Here are the drawings for all three layers, top and middle is 8 mm thick plexy (no lexan here:mad: ), and base is 5 mm thick copper, everything 80 x 50 mm:

This is the base (channels-to-be-#Rotor-style), every hole 1.2 mm in drawing, supposed to be drilled with 1 mm bit...Hard to achieve...:rolleyes:

very nice indeed:cool:

Yepp. It´s gonna be Restricitve.
regards
Mikael S.

Thanx guys!!!

Beside all the fun of making it, and satisfaction with the result(s), your words keep me up and running:p

Thx again!

Wooow!
How long did it take you to drill all those holes with your dremel?

wywywywy: the holes are drilled with drill press, and the channels between them are made with dremel with cutting discs.
Think that drilling the holes with hand drill or dremel is near to impossible, no accuracy in position, depth nor angle of the bit...
Dremelling took another 30 mins or little more...

For NB block it took me approx 30 mins to drill. The beauty of the #Rotors design is that one can finish the block in no time, and still have great looker and really good performer...

And for the CPU block, I managed to drill three lines of holes, with three drill bits (snapped them all:rolleyes: ), and than started dremelling all of them. Dunno how much time it took me to dig em up, few hours with pausing for bitching:shrug:

congrats on some insane blockage...

well, since i'm working with about the same tools as you are (hmm, how could that be?) i can affirm the craftsmenship ;-)

but i think most of my congrats must go to that beautifully made plexi top. i can almost be sure that that piece proved to be the most difficult (it was for me). the copper is like a cakewalk compared to plexi, nm if u do it slow or fast, it is very easy to make it "explode" when the drill breaks out. the clamping makes it a hit or a failure.

dunno about the performance u will be getting, let me know. lets say, how much it went below your first rotor cpu block.

cheers, and a hail to the CROverclocker

Hi m8,

Long time, no sea:D

and THX.

Plexy took me some time (and several ruined tops to learn) how to drill it. It almost couldn't be called drilling, but more like grating thin layers of it with drill bit (talking about big ones, 10 mm and thicker). It's the only way that I could achieve nice and perfectly round hole for the barbs, without a drill bit crushing and crumbling the plexy in pieces, or taking a good grip on it, making drill press stop.
If anyone is inetrested, first is a good thing to make a pilot hole through the plexy (I made 6 mm one), and then put the thick drill bit, position it over the center, fasten everything good, and start the drill on the lowest rpm. Lower the bit to the hole, and now is the trick part: put so little pressure on the drill, like just holding it in place and placing a feather on your hand. That's enough pressure to bit to scrape little thin layers and leave a perfect round hole (without making it wider, elipse or such).

Plexy was sawed with modellers saw (that long, U shaped thing with one handle, dunno the right word) with good quality thin blades.

Funny thing was tapping the bloody thing, I was doing it on my balcony, and I almost had to explain to my neighbours that I'm not skinning the cat alive, no, I'm just making the threads in plexy. It screamed like hell (didn't use no oil, WD40 or such, doing it dry:rolleyes: )

Now I refilled my pencil gas torch and tried polishing the edges of plexy with directional flame on some scrap pieces. It works, think that is good thing to sand the edges to the max with wet sand paper (max I have is 600), and then use flame like brush while painting (it needs more practice, no great results yet...:p )

When I complete and install the blocks, I'll surely post the results.

:) Good to see you're still around!

Cheers!

broken tops ;-)

also had my share of those.

thx for the tips, will try em next time.

the biggest problem for the non-CNC hobbyist is that when we saw the plexi workpiece to the rigt dimension, it is IMPOSSIBLE to saw it in a perfectly rectangular piece (important so we can clamp it between the vice so that both clamping planes have full contact, as with copper)

taking the time and then double that time, seems to be the motto for the cheap-o hobbyist.

Sad, but true.

Funny thing is that I actually have a small circular saw with a blade made for wood, but of course, I cannot find the blade for cutting plastic here. Two choices - wood or ceramics blades - not one suitable for a thicker plastic. So, hand sawing it is. You can achieve some better results with sandpaper and - lot's of patience and time.

Maybe it's time to get a mitre saw (I was looking for them, found 'em, and - guess what - no other kinds of blades but for wood:confused: )

Hehe, time will tell...Lot's of time, I suppose...:p

Cheers!

Take a high tooth per inch carbide tipped wood blade and mount it in a table saw backwards, cuts very well, straight and true.;)

Many Many thx, g_f!!!:)

In one of the shops I was asking for lexan, I actually saw the reversed tooth saw, but didn't know it can be just plain high tooth saw reversed!

THX THX THX!

Gonna try that soon!

Cheers

I'm using a 10" 80 carbide tooth finishing blade that is also recomended for plastics on a radial arm saw.

You know you are over the top when you pay $60 for a blade to cut bits of plastic.:eek:

Now I wonder how that blade will work turned around........on a radial arm saw. Wish I had a tabel saw to, add to the wish list. Right after the band saw and the belt sander.

Sould have it in about 2 years.:rolleyes:

LOL, yup, I still do not know a hobby that is cheap. Collecting paper napkins or sugar bags in coffee shops maybe...
There's always another tool.

Belt sander would be nice. Good idea, off to write to Santa.

The circular table saw I have is small, hobby thingie my father got from his friends for bday. Think it's gonna see some usage now ;)

Cheers!

For what we are doing smaller saws and sanders are fine. I've located a very small 9" band saw that should do all I wish it to. Will also save space & cost.

Sander is also a compact one, but still has both wide & narrow belts. Or it can be had with a disk instead of the wide belt.

Your small table saw is I'd bet much easier to word with than a large radial arm saw is for small items like block tops. And you can buy 2-3 blades for what one large one costs.

What is the ID of the 14.5mm barbs you are using Pazzdre? And do you drill them out to get a bit extra through put for the same OD size?