cutting 1/8" aluminum
 

Howdy all,

I'm making a face plate for my computer out of 1/8" aluminum. I cut the drive bays, using a combination of a dremel cutting wheel and a jigsaw, drilled for mounting and buttons and such, and now I need to cut two 60mm holes for fans I'll be using to cool my hard drives.

Unfortunately, I can't get a clean cut with either my dremel or the jigsaw - the diameter is too small. I was looking into buying a hole-saw, which I know would be the ideal solution, but I was wondering if anyone knows of any cheaper solutions. I also wouldn't be averse to bolting up something that had 2 60mm holes already cut in it...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1/8 is really pretty heavy for any kind of a nibbler. Sounds like a hole saw is the only way you can go. Maybe you can find a machine shop to do it for you. I have actually gone to local votech schools in the past for various things I did not have the tools to do. Some of the instructors were very good about doing small projects for nothing. I have had better luck with the adult night class instructors rather than day time instructors.

I am not to sure if it is cheaper or not but you might try a rental place or a pawn shop for the hole saw. 2Busy's idea are good to.

It can be done with the Demel, but technique is vital. Don't hold your cutting wheel at a 90° angle to the peice, cut at a 30-45° angle. Don't cut all the way through to begin with, nibble a half deep groove all the way around first.

tin snips maybe?

Yeah with heavy shears and a gorilla grip you can work some very interesting shapes in 1/8" aluminum.

OK, here's another idea:

You'll need a 2x4 or 2x6 longer than the face plate, some clamps, a drill (Dremel drill OK), and some kind of pointed metal cutting tool like common Dremel bits for example.

Centre the plate on the 2x4, so wood is beneath where a 60mm hole will be, clamp them together.

Select your largest drill bit having a web shorter than the thickness of the wood. Put it in your drill, mark center for one hole, drill through and bury it into the wood so only the shank is showing. Leave the plate and drill bit where they are - loosen the chuck and remove the drill.

Remove the clamp. The face plate should now spin freely and without any play around the drill bit center. Get the idea? This is a crude lathe.

Now the 2x4 should be secured so you can rig up a stationary cutter to it. This may be a challenge. The cutter (e.g. Dremel) needn't have vertical travel because you can gradually raise the plate on paper shims or even by hand pressure depending on how the cut is going. So whatever tool you use to cut that soft aluminum, it might as well be fixed securely and therefore safely.

The converse approach is to buy (or make) a Dremel Router Attachment . This is essentially a flat-bottomed stand that clamps a Dremel upright, allowing vertical adjustment, and has a hole through which the bit protrudes. It can be spun around a center. This accessory is also handy for making straight or patterned cuts - it can glide along a straight edge or a template.

Yeah, if you can find a holesaw the right size, and you have a drill press and a good vice (or bravery and a lot more aluminum), but a lot of times things like this need to be 'worked out'
Go buy a $5 round file, and some emery paper. I've removed several inches of aluminum in an hour, it's about the nicest metal to work with short of bronze.
I'd grab a medium file about 3/8 in diameter and a couple different grits of emery.
Step 1: mark your holes. I suggest using blue (jiffy marker'll work great here) and scribing out your pattern lightly with a quality scribe (you really gotta buy one, but their cheap)
Step 2: Drill ye a hole in the centers of the voids (not the edge you jigsaw fans) large enough to get your file through.
Step 3: Grip and elbowjuice. Nothing can match the place of a good bench vice, but whatever you can mock up will do fine AS LONG AS: don't screw the nice finish of the aluminum up biting it as hard as you can wind a 120 lb vice, it's soft; grip your job as close to the area you're working on it and be prepared to move it every 30 - 60 seconds was you progress around your holes or you'll bend it as you work away from your purchase, it's soft; take your time learning to file smoothly. You want smooth, even strokes forward, not bouncy, jerky strokes that could bend the aluminum (it's soft).
K, once you've niced up the edges as best you can with the file grab your emery strip (or paper, preferably there'd be a few more steps, but let's keep it simple) and pull it from end to end of the file to the other and use the file as before.
After this all you need to do is polish the edges.

cutting 1/8 aluminum
 

I was looking to cut a lot of holes in thin metal, but they needed to be of various (and sometymes non-standard) sizes. The cost of a lot of hole saws was more then I wanted to spend...or had. The local hardware store had the answer. It's an adjustable fly cutter. You chuck it in you 3/8" drill, the bit has an adjustable bar on 90 degrees from the bit. Loosen the allen screw, set the distance from the bit to the cutter (carbide I think) to 1/2 the size of the hole, tighten the allen screw, and cut a perfect hole. By adjusting the bar, you can cut any size hole up to about 6" or a little more. Total cost of the flycutter...$8.25!! Cut a few holes for a friend or two and it pays for itself. Hope this helps...tnv :p

I picked up a set of 5 hole makers at Wall-Wart for $6.

I use a dremel for a rough cut then use a half round file to clean it up.

Good lord you used it freehand?! Man of steel!