1a-Cooling new block : 1A-SL
 

This this the new block that the German manufacturer introduced to the public:

1A-SL --> http://yohanng.free.fr/sl1.jpg

http://yohanng.free.fr/sl3.jpg

http://yohanng.free.fr/sl4l.jpg

The manufacturer in his own web site states that this block in on par with the Nexxos XP.

Beutiful machine work. I don't understand how it is supposed to work though.

That set of plates turn the channels into micro channels. My guess is that their trying to create more turbulance and velocity? I think it would be way to restrictive though. I bet it corrodes quick though. Might even act like a battery. lol

I see what they are trying ot do (I think) but it doesn't make any sense. Why make the inlet do a 90 and then go into the middle section. That sure looks like a steel insert. Could be wrong though.

I noticed this outfit is hell bent on using their center load mounting bracket system. If they would ever give up on that and add the center inlet they could do better. But whatever. I bet the thing still performs good. I am still impressed by the machine work.

Cracking that clear top maybe an issue though. I don't like how they have those screw holes so close to the edge. They did however use the correct screws with the flat top heads. Thats the ONLY way plastic tops should be screwed on. Counter sinking the holes is just a bad idea.

Well, I don't know what type of material the insert is made of, but the idea seems valid.
I wonder if it will vibrate due to the water pressure, and make some noise associated with it.
Still, the workmanship is very good.
This manufacturer also produces the 1A-HV2 and 1A-HV3 blocks, which have good performances, seeing that both are micro-channels, and use a Eheim 1046 as a starting point.
As everyone seems keen on low flow blocks, it'a another idea to join the club.

The idea is something that I tried with one of my GPU blocks, except the middle thing was actually a complete copper plate with channels hanging down, and it was done on a CNC mill.

Overall I found the concept to be limited in effect. The block became a lot more restrictive with very minimal gains, however, yes, it was an improvement over the basic White Water, just not a big one.

Still, nice to see it out and about, strutting its stuff. I could never make it cheaply due to the fine-channel milling of two plates instead of the one.

So the insert is reducing the effective width of the channels, to increase water velocity?
Hope it's not steel though :eek:

Excuse my off topic but I got to ask. You have any interest trying to improve the low flow scene? At least give it a shot for giggles? Personally I think it could be done and I think you know how too.

Actually it closes up the channels completely, only leaving the space between the bottom of the steel thingy and the copper baseplate for the water to flow through. Essentially it is making square tube structures deep inside the baseplate to keep the water velocity high where it needs to be, on the copper as close to the core as possible.

nice idea, another lint trap though

Ever run an MCW600x with an open-to-the-air res, and no filter, for a few months Bill? Would be most curious to see what one would look like inside after such abuse.

With a big enough pump, performance is probably great. Hate to what it would do with my Eheim though.

if by an 'open res' you mean a pot with no lid, sure - that will trash anything
so what ?
a vented res on the other hand will 'pick up' rather little

I do not consider the environment to be the cause of contamination, the typical WCing system is dirty to begin with
- how many boil their rad before using ?
I would opine that 90+% of all the crap comes from the rad, but there is a problem - a lot of the rad crap seems to come out slowly (as in your paint, ever look in a BI rad ?)

try this Cathar:
the smaller the opening(s), the greater the propensity for clogging

that's all I'm saying
BTW, the minimum gap in the MCW6000 is 0.054"; rather different than those under discussion

True. My real point being that a lot of things nowadays are heading down the road of smaller gaps.

Okay, so we both agree that lint is a bad thing, and that running an open air loop is a bad thing to do, which pretty much means using a filter in such scenarios, or using a closed loop filled with clean water is the way to go.

If crap from the radiator is an issue, then an in-line filter should be used anyway, if only for the pump's longevity sake even with blocks that may otherwise pass such hard stuff unhindered.

I guess for radiator crap one could argue a point for both sides of the coin. A "lint-trap" block which catch all the hard lint that is potentially damaging to the pump. Performance of the block will slowly degrade, forcing the user to investigate, realise that they have an issue and install a filter anyway. A non-trap block will have particles of matter getting stuck in the pump's axle/spindle contact points causing wear.

In either scenario (lint or radiator crap), they are both issues that need to be made aware of, observed, and addressed if they occur, regardless of the waterblock used (lint trap or open).

You could too make it cheaply. Look again - that insert is made entirely of sheet metal.

I'm pleased to see sheet metal working its way into waterblocks. It's cheap. It's fine. It easily laminates to form complex buried structures. Many possibilities with this stuff.

I believe he was refering to his design which used two copper plates.

1a-sl2
http://www.1a-cooling.de/produkte/1a...ges/inside.jpg

Just curious as to what kind of filter could be used, i tried goodle but only could find stuff meant for home applications that wouldnt be well suited for high flow applications.

A Brass insert this time? Better.

never seen one 'suited' for high flow applications
fine filtering = high pressure drop
small size = high pressure drop
now add the 2

Best way to do it would be in the res IMO. Put a filter of some sort that divides the inlet side of the res from the outlet size. Flow is generally slow in a res (unless its very small) and the filter could be fairly large, ought to work without too much pressure drop.

Wouldn't help people using a bayres though.

Micro-irrigation strainers are pretty good for high-flow applications and do a very good job. For the one I had I estimated around 3000 0.2x0.2mm holes. It had about as much pressure drop as your typical 1/2" OD fitted heater-core. Looks like the one on the right:

http://www.employees.org/~slf/images/filters.jpg

Not sure if I'm stating the obvious, but isn't the main point of this design to get the same performance as a dual outlet 3 barb block using only 2 barbs?

I think those little pinholes shoot jets down to force the main flow into the bottom of the grooves. Like a non-mechanical spoiler.

Cathar,

Would you say that using one of these strainers for a period of time would allow the rad and any other "dirty" components to eventually shed their unwanted material into the loop, and eventually you could remove the strainer from the loop as it would be considered "clean"? Or are these strainers more of a permanent addition to the loop?

I personally can't think of any way to remove it from the loop without contaiminating the loop to begin with.

Aisde note... should one boil their copper heatercore before introducing it to a loop to avoid any unwanted material floating around, clogging up your pump and blocks? Is there a good method of "cleaning" unwanted material out of the rad/blocks/pump?

You could try fishing a thin high pressure waterline in the pump, etc and do short blasts. It should flush anything out. Could also try vibration if it's not too fragile a piece.