Lian-Li V1000B mod
 

Here is my case mod I just finished. Gonna add a Vantec fan controller and Danger Den fillport this week. What ya think?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99...x/IMG_2267.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99...x/IMG_2264.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99...x/IMG_2265.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99...x/IMG_2260.jpg

Nice setup. I would suggest putting some sort of silicone sealant between the fans and the rad. Stick with the reservoir. A fill port might take up less space but it can actually hurt flow rates. For future reference: watercooling the NV-68's RAM is almost pointless. It uses DDR 3 which is very cool running. Passive air cooling would be more than adequate. That particular block is very restrictive. Not to mention so is your CPU block (though it's a good one, don't get me wrong). With your pump choice, though, I doubt it would have too much of an adverse effect on performance. What fans are you running on your rad?

Those are Vantec stealth fans in push-pull configuration. I have a Danger Den Acetal MAZE4 GPU block Im gonna use when I get the second vid card for SLI mode. I know the NV-68 is kinda overkill. I got it before I learned how little cooling the DDR 3 needed. The block does not really seem too restictive. The pump seems to have power to spare. I wanted to eliminate all the fans so the PC would be very quiet. Gonna replace my Fortron PS with a PC Power & Cooling 510 SLI this week. Im gonna keep the reservoir but use the fillport to fill it from the top of the case. The silicone is a great idea. Thanks

Try turning off the one in "push" mode. You may see no difference in temps.

Please explain this theory.

I like the setup alot, but then again, I may be biased.

In my case I used the V1200B because I knew I'd be installing two loops and as it was my first WC rig, I figure a little too much space is better than not enough space.


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC5_OPenSideR.jpg


I didn't worry too much about the restrictive nature of the NV68 blocks as I used two modified Laing DDC pumps in two separate loops.

And after doing a lot of reading, I'll agree it seems like overkill.

But anyone who is willing to purchase a pair of $725.00 video cards is probably not going to mind spending another $250 for a pair of NV-68s :D :D ,s


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC5_Back_PumpsR.jpg


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC5_VC-CS-CPUR.jpg

One thing possibly "wrong" with the setup as you see it depicted above - which I may or may not correct - is that I have the flow to the TDX such that the inlet is above the outlet. I realized that such could be a potential problem after I put everything together.

So far, even if I introduce air into the system on purpose, any entrapment that momentarily appears at the TDX seems to disappear almost immediately.

With the two mod'ded pumps, even though I can't measure anything related to flow and pressure, it seems like I have enough of both.

http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC5-CPUR.jpg

I used both a Danger Den fill tube and a reservoir.

The fill tube is located directly above the fill port of the reservoir and connected with a very short length of tubing.

Cheers,

Joe

A couple of additional gratuitous shots . . .


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC...tail_RearR.jpg


and


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/JC5_FD.jpg


Last challenge will be to install a Plexi window on the side. The 1200 is not yet available with a "factory" window treatment.

I am going to swap-out the fan on the CPU outboard loop for a Stealth fan which will provide over 50 CFM @ 1500 RPM.

One thing I learned along the way is that the system above works well with all three fans running at 50% RPM and overall, the system is very quiet.

Someone around here commented recently that we need not worry about fan speed controllers if we pick the correct fans in the first place . . .

. . . but how are some of us n00bs to know?

Those two ground straps you see on the Evercool fans are there for good reason, ah but that's another story. :D

One more observation, Vortex . . .

Maybe the more experienced guys will weigh in on this, but I do not like those nylon ratchet clamps at all.

I only had one pair of them on my setup initially and that was between the two NV-68 blocks.

After I fired things up and had the system running for a week, I developed a slow leak. Can you guess where?

Yep, right above one of those nylon clamps. The clamp would not hold when i tried the next ratchet.

Purchase some Oetiker crimp-on {pinch-on} clamps as you see that I have mostly used or else use automotive type stainless steel Ideal worm-gear clamps.

Cheers,

joe

I think Max is reffering to the info here...

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...s_with_h2o.php

Still makes no sense, especially when using a 1/2" ID tee fitting.

I was planning to put the fillport on top of the case and run the tubing to the unused port on my reservoir. It's kind of a pain to pull out the reservoir to fill it up. What ya think?

Im afraid I'll crank down too hard on the worm gear clamps and cut my tube. I always seem to go nuts tightening stuff till it breaks. What do ya think about using zip ties.

I have two fillports in the top of my case, one of which is connected to nothing and is a monumnt to folly,

Do not plan on putting any bends in the fill tube or you will wait until your great grandchildren are old before you get the fluid in - and the system burped.

Instead, plan the precise location of the reservoir first and then place the fill port precisely above it so the tubing is straight in even though it be eccentric to the case edges.

My second fill port is just so and works a charm.

As to using tie-wraps?

I think you would be no better off than with the nylon ratchet clamps. The problem is that they "give" in time and that one ratchet point may be too lose while the next one may be too tight.

Oetiker clamps are gloriously good, but worm clamps are almost as good.

I used a combination of the two. Where I was sure I'd not want to open the loop, I used the Oetikers. Where I thought that one day I may open the loop, I used Ideal worm-gear clamps.

You may buy the Oetikers in bags of 25 for about $7 from McMaster-Carr.

Go here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

. . . and search for Oetiker.

Puchase a Channel-Lock front-jaw cutter/crimper from Sears.

Have fun,

Joe

Jam-
Thanks for the heads-up about those ear clamps. Love the overkill. I bought stainless as well.

NP . . . .

Here is my complete kit for the Oetikers:


http://www.jamcraft.net/Stuff/JC5/Oetiker_kitr.jpg


I think I spent about $70 in all and bought enough stuff for half a dozen projects.

The red-handled tool was purchased specifically for the Oetikers from McMaster-Carr.

The blue-handled tool was purchased from Sears as it was needed to cut off the clamps if opening up the loop became necessary {cut across the edge of either "ear" and not on the flat.}

One can get by with using the Channel-Lock front edge cutter {purchased from Sears} for both the crimping and the cutting functions.

The Oetiker crimper is more of a convenience in getting into tight spots.

Cheers,

Joe

actually the red one will cut them quite easily - just grab one ear and twist
i have only done this on harder plastic tubing so it may cut the softer tubing slightly
test it first...

Reserviors improve system flow by keeping the impeller constantly flooded. The improvement in flow is not as noticable when using a MCP350, MCP600, or MCP650. The difference is very noticable when using eheims or mag3s (5s, etc.). Where a 3/4" inlet can be used. I could explain the logic behind this but I'd rather just let empirical data speak for itself. Check out pH's work in the articles section where he integrated a reservior into his mag3.

BTW: reserviors used to frustrate me as well. I built a couple of completely closed systems (read: no t-line, no reservior) thinking that it would improve flow rates and thus performance. This was not the case.

My opinion is that one is much less likely to end up with a partially bled system (with air in the radiator) using a reservoir plumbed into the inlet of the pump. I think the performance loss from air in the rad is a lot larger than from any difference in flow rate between a t line and a reservoir. The only way I was ever satisfied with filling loops using a T was when I didn't connect the radiator in the case until after filling it. Then I could shake it and the wb and putz with the loop until it was really air-free.

After the plumbing was done . . .

I found I was able to lift and shake the system a bit.

Then I lay it on its side.

Then I inverted it 180.

I tipped it 45 degrees for and aft in both direstions as well.

I am pretty damn sure there is no air hidden anywhere, lol.

Pretty happy with the above setup after a few weeks. The intake to the two pumps is 1/2" Tubing {0.75 OD with 1/8" wall thickness on the Tygon} comes through a "Y" six inches from the res outlet - feeding directly into the "mouth" of each pump as seen on one of the above images.

No sign of starvation as far as I can tell.

Cheers,

Joe

I want to see an OCZ powerstream 600 mounted in there (try it you'll see what I mean (drives) :shrug: :evilaugh: