Need Water Block Design for 60L/M
 

yep 60L/M the fitting is a 2 inch nippel so i have to make it like BladeRunner 1 2inch in and 4 1/2inch out. but is a spiral, cone and pins to rekomend?

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...9/DSC01586.JPG
:D

2in. x 2in. is larger than the socket for the CPU?

yes the socket is 37,5mm and the nippel is 51mm

Tail wagging the dog.

That'd be a decent pump to move water from a buried tank to cool multiple computers. For one computer...

Free advice: use really really good hose clamps.

Edit: Also, please take pics. :D

I knew a girl once in the Phillipines with a 2-inch nipple...

She had a good hose clamp, too, come to think of it...

LOL! Nice one J.

You'll need to adapt that to 1/2" or at least 3/4" or your tubing will be... absurd? I think thats a good word for it. BTW is that an electric pump or will it be run off of a gas engine? (the latter wouldn't be advisable seeing as you'll need to probably sell any children you have to pay for the fuel needed for a year of use)

Are you serious?

its a electric 230V pump

YES :D

The fitting is 35,5 mm outside and 20,5mm inside and the CPU is 37,5mm :rolleyes:

Hmmm ... an article comes in mind here ...
It's Cathar's 'Hom much pump power is enough' article ...
I don't even have to do the math on this one ... I'm sure it's too much.
With all the pressure you are also prone to tubing jumping off, ruptures of any kind, and so on ...
And the boost in performance (if any) over a normal pump won't really measure up to the boost on your electricity bill...
But then again ... I'd love to see you solve this problem.

thats wy i want help to do a water block besign with high flow capability

be sure to use double layer nylon reinforced tubing and stainless worm drive hose clamps

The problem you'll have is getting the coolant close to the die.
See, 60LPM is no good if its no where near the heat.

Designs like the LRR, Cascade and **next big thing that I won't reveal*** all sacrifice some flow to accelerate the water, so that 5 LPM can come within 1mm of the copper of the block by it moving at 15 m/s. This causes a fair bit of backpressure to the pump, which causes the drop in flow rate.

If you take 60 LPM, and you try to do the same, you're going to drop down a fair bit of flow to get the velocity you require to get all the water close.
That pressure is then going to try to break your hoses, radiators and particularly the clamp for the water block to the motherboard.

Its like the footage of a single bloke trying to hold onto a fire hose as it whirls him around.

I've got no idea of the backpressure in this case, but given my garden hose on full-whelly struggles to fill my 40L storage container in two minutes, I'd suggest back pressure will be "significant".

Do you have a PQ graph for the pump? At what head height does it stop flowing?

This design will be totally impractical. You'll need to bolt that pump down, and you'll need industrial fasteners to bolt the motherboard to something strong and the block to both.

Lets just say the three-lugs on the old Socket-A are not going to suffice!

Other compromises are the radiators. I doubt they will hold the pressure you will be generating across them. I'd suggest a full car radiator - chances are the pipe sizes will roughly correlate too.

Which brings me to my last point. Remember the "pump selection criteria"?

How do you go:

1) Material of the pump won't cause galvanic corrossion
2) Silent
3) Reliable

etc etc....

i im thinking of having this desing on the CPU block http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...locks_open.jpg
and the system is going to like this (sorry have no time to make it "nice" so paint dos the job) :D
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...l_systemet.JPG

I don't think that will happen.
as you state "fire hose as it whirls him around" but that is due to the water leaving a closed system.
the rest of the long hose doesn't realy move much... don't ask me about the physics behind that... I don't know...
granted there will be a lot of back preasure.. but i don't think it will want to move once it is running.
This i do have to agree...

perhaps consider cooling your hardrives as well...
you do have one connection going directly from the CPU block to a radiator...
it isn't like you won't have enough flow :evilaugh:

The flow on the 1/2 is 15LPM and thats no problem.
but i dont realy get that with back preasure. (im not so brigt)
But i have a big problem the school wer i am going to make the block ar going to be clost to late agust :mad: so i dont have any CNC to work with (i have A+ (MVG in 5 CNC curses :p ) yust have to brag) . so i have to make a chep test block with a rigd drill at my dads jobb :/
i gess i will have to weld the Hose Barbs to the block.
and i im going to macke a relay thas make the pump to do a slow start so it dosent pump 60L att the start, like after 30sec it have maximum power

If you try to run that pump at max power, 60 LPM, things are bound to break. Though if you manage to make it work without breaking, then hats off to you! :D

Please consider recording the first power up on video! :)

I can imagine people willing to chop your balls off if you manage to come with that rig to a LAN, the noise must be anything but silent. ^^

Keeping everything sealed will be a problem, but the mobo clamp doesn't see this force with a fully contained WB. This would be a problem with direct-die cooling, and this pump would be a poor choice for that approach.

AFA successful sealing, I'd think about using threaded fittings in the components with AN adapters and hose. Twisting the WBs would be a concern.

For the WB design, I'd think about a ridge-less LRR design.
That is basically the waterblock you should above with four outlets.
However, you have a plate which forms a nozzle to accelerate the water and hence get more of it interacting with the base of the block.
I'd go for a slot rather than a hold, and aim to have the slot the width of the block, and then run it at full width initially, and then squeeze it in until the flow dropped off too much, and then bring it back a bit.

Have you thought about the pressure caused by the hoses when they try to straighten themselves out when you start pumping around that massive amount of water?
The hoses will get really really hard due to the pressure.

I thought of this as i saw a rolled up garden hose getting really stiff when waterpressure was applied. I tried to bend the hose before and after pressure was applied, and it was alot more difficult to bend it when the water was flowing through.

Not sure if this applies to a water cooling loop tho, food for thought anyways. :)
Correct me if im wrong!

Intuitive Backpressure description for idiots
 

(And I call myself one at least once a day :D )

Easy way to show yourself using a high and low power fan.

Mount it about 1/2 - 1/4" away from a hard surface (maybe less, not sure) w/ airflow toward surface. Turn it on and place hand 1" away behind it.

1. Lower power fan will blow most of the air down and you won't feel much blowing back on your hand.

2. Higher power will feel more like the fan is blowing toward your hand instead of away. This is because the air and other resistence makes an obstruction to the flow, the harder you press on it, the harder it presses back.

I actually ran into this w/ a new TT Big Typhoon HSF when trying out different fans (Fins are close together (~ 1mm)). My Papst 100 CFM fan felt like it was blowing onto my hand instead of though the fins. Also very little flow was felt going through the fins.

My 120mm Panaflo M was the best balance, with most of the air going THROUGH the heatsink instead of backward out the top of the heatsink.

I think that this pump is extreme overkill, and you are tempting fate, but if you are determined some extra suggestions:
1. Go for the big (55+Gals), buried tank (extra structural support and cooling) and / or 1-2 car radiators for cooling.

1a. Where safety glasses and other equip when testing - this is a POWER tool :D

2. Leak / pressure test for a week (since if this does fail, it WILL be catastrophically) NO computer nearby !

3. Use a cheap system first to see how it works, then try it on something worthwhile

4. Since any failure would be major, YOU must inspect it directly @ least once / week.

5. WE WANT PICS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

6. Post this @ xtremesystems.org in the liquid cooling section since it certainly qualifies as XTREME :D

Good luck

When the pump is turned on, if its not on a soft-start, the instant pressure will probably push your hoses off.

You will want hoseclips - maybe even two or three for each hose connection.

Look on the pump to see if it says how much current it takes?

I think the extra heat it will add will make this perform worse than a smaller pump.

Heat shmeat, who cares about performance, this is about who has got the biggest cohones! :D

Pull this one off and you will surely become famous. :cool:

FL3JM, you are indeed correct. Someone doing this will have cojones large enough to prevent normal walking!