Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
I've just flushed a system that's been running 24x7 for the last two years.
Innovatek HPPS pump + Innovatek push-on res (ABS version) Swiftech 5002 block (anodized aluminum back) mercury montego heater core opaque soft silicone tubing. 10% solution of distilled water and Valvoline Racing Coolant Everything looked good. A very thin layer of grey or white colored deposit inside the res. Didn't seem to be inside the block or inside the small length of hose I split open to examine - maybe just built up where the coolant slows down. Pump internals looked pretty much new Nylon barbs on the 5002 has soaked up a little of the VRC pink dye Buttoned back up, refilled with distilled water and 5% VRC (I'll know in another two years whether the 10% was more than enough...) Note - I'd given the owner a couple of bottles of DW/VRC at 10% mix. (silicone hoses lose water a bit faster than vinyl, so there's a need for bi-monthly top-up). If the walls of the silicone tubing are working as some sort of osmotic filter (i.e. water goes out, VRC stays) it's possible that the concentration has been going up as he refills). He'd gone through about a pint (if we both remember correctly how much I gave him). Oh - and the piece of foam I'd put under the pump/res combo to damp any pump vibrations before they got to the case had gone almost completely flat. :) [edit] changed Innovatek push-on rad (ABS version) to Innovatek push-on res(ABS version) ... duh![/edit] |
Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
It makes a case for black tubing... ;)
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
Was there any corrosion in the 5002? Or did the VRC take care of it?
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
It looked slightly tarnished (not bright copper color any more).
I don't know if this was the VRC or just not having any non-copper metal exposed to the coolant (the Swiftech alu block-top is hard anodized, which, so long as it is unbreached, does a very effective job of chemicaly isolating the alu from the loop). AFAIK, copper is unlike alu in that, if it's in a loop alone (no mixed metals) it doesn't really need anti-corrosion... |
Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
I'm running black tubing and it's doing wonders for keeping the creepy crawlies out of my system! (I'm running no additives, stupid living on campus so i can't go to the auto store to buy antifreeze...)
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
Any links for black tubing (1/2") in the UK? :)
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
how bout a link if possible for the tubing? I been thinking of getting some but couldnt find any.
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Link: ="http://www.usplastic.com |
Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
That's interesting news. I've always wanted to try black Tygon anyway. I wouldn't run without at least some form of antibiotic though. Life will find a way if at all possible.
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
you would need to do a more straight comparison to convince me, like filling 2 systems in the same room with identical coolant and just have the difference be the tubing, because UV radiation in general kills bacteria so I could see a case in direct sunlight fairing much better than the cool damp places moldies seem to like soo much.
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Re: Not exposing coolant to light seems to work
Hydrx @ $1.99 http://www.svc.com/swhyexduco.html
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maybe this is a stupid question.
But if the bacteria are photosynithising then black tube would work right. The bacteria have to be living off something? |
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Also, CCFLs are generally "blacklight" or UVA frequencies and thus don't harm bacteria (or people). As for why taking out the light kills bacteria - light is the energy source for it. Without light it has no source of energy and dies. |
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