WC, where to start?
 

Hi guys.

I'm brand new in these forums, aka complete noob.

I have decided to get watercooling since I am fed up with the noise my box makes. Lower temperatures of course is a feature desired as well.

I have no idea where to start, but I found this:

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX

From what I understand all the pros don't recommend kits, but I figured a kit would be a good way to start, since it comes with everything necessary to get going. The Apex kit has gotten good reviews so I'm figuring it can't be all that bad.

If there is already a "noob-thread" (which I couldn't find) feel free to direct me to it.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Usually the best place to start is to determine what you want out of WCing and how much you want to spend.

You have already said you want it cool, quite, and by extrapolation from the kit you linked to you are willing to pay a fair amount.

After that you evaluate how much cooling you need and start hunting for parts, keeping in mind your budget.

Do you want WCing that is completely contained in your case or have a few parts resting outside of your case?

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Hi BGP Spook.

Thank you for your answer.

About the sum for the kit, I guess. :) For starters. However, if the kit price is over the top, given the performance, I don't mind spending less/the same for a better performing (noise and cooling) custom setup.

Sine I have a full tower which is fairly big (25 inches / 65 centimeters high, with 4 empty 5.25 bays up top out of 6 total), I suppose it would be nice to have it contained. I got the case specifically to have room to "grow" and/or add watercooling. But if the parts sticking out aren't noisy, I dont mind if i.e. the radiator sits outside the case. But I'm guessing the size of my case will allow me to contain the WC entirely?

I can't

Also, I have a question about this article:
http://www.spodesabode.com/content/article/watercool/1

Would you consider it to cover the basics of watercooling in a good way? I understand if you dont want to read the whole thing, but it would be nice to know if it is somewhat accurate. If I am going to assemble a custom WC, it would be helpful to at least know what is needed.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

This is where to start, looking somewhere else to buy parts.
Jab-tech.com, svc.com, dtekcustoms.com, performance-pcs.com, dangerden.com, cooltechnica.com

Listed from Jabtech
Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator $40.00
Swiftech MCP655 $69.95
Swiftech MCW60VGA cooler $59.95
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset cooler $29.95
Swiftech Apogee CPU water block $47.95
Swiftech Hydrx $3.99
ClearFLEX 60 Tubing 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD x10 ft $8.50
Coolsleeves - Horizon Blue 40" - For 5/8" OD tubing $3.49
Swiftech MCRES-Micro $14.95

$279 shipping not calculated.
Remove the chipset WB and MCW-60 without ramsinks $44.60
$235
Cheaper Rad
Black Ice Pro II Dual 120mm Radiator $33.95
$229
Cheaper WB
White Water - LE $34.99/ White Water Waterblock with USMA Adapter $29.99
$216 or $209
Danger Den TDX and Danger Den D5 pump $108.75

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Everything will fit into your server case, which is a huge full tower.

I would suggest reading some articles here and elsewhere.
http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1561
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=8324
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=8509
http://www.procooling.com/index.php?...ticles&disp=73

They are written in a way that will explain everything and is easier to read. If you don't understand anything, use this forum to ask questions and we will help you. You still need to do some of your own research. :dome:

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Thank you ever so much, ricecrispi. That is very, very helpful.

I actually saw this which I thought sounded like fun ;)
http://www.spodesabode.com/content/article/heatercore/

Now off I go to do my research. Thank you once again. :)

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Its fun at the start but
1) gets annoying if you choose the wrong rad and cant get tubing or barbs on it
2) Mounting also becomes an issue and building a shroud
3) have to spend time cleaning and rinsing HC or car rad.
4) corrosion

If its for a project go ahead but if you want to go straight into WC I would spend the $30-40 for a WCing rad that will also perform better and require less time.

Other ways to save money is to buy a good $20-30 artic/nv silencer kit and buy a cheaper WCing pump. You can hit sub $150 range for a kit. Also check ebay out for stuff

Re: WC, where to start?
 

If you really want to you can buy a 2-203 heatercore for something like $25 at Advanced Auto Parts.

You will need to find a way to mount it, build a rad box for it, and modify the inlet/outlet tubeing to make it fit, though.

That is how I did it, since the 2-203 gets good performance at a reasonable price.

It is not for everyone though, if you want a "project" then a heatercore may be for you; but if you just want to WC then go with something else like the BIP II that ricecrispi mentioned.

If you want the best performance for the least noise/CFM then you will need to go with the PA series.(PA120.x or PA160, warning! Not cheap!)

You will need fans no matter what rad you get, Yateloons(sp?) are the quietest for the performance.

Short of running passively, the best you could do for quite performance would be to get a PA 120.2 with two Yateloons @~7v sucking through the rad.
----------------------------------------------------------

When it comes to selecting waterblocks will you need to consider what CPU you have and what else if anything you plan on WCing. The nature of the CPU and what else there is in the loop has as much as anything else to do with waterblock selection.
------------------------------------

EDIT: After having read through a part of the article you first linked I find that it has several conceptual errors and several points that I could debate as to what is the "best" solution.

It is generally sound advice, but has flaws.

EDIT2:
Ok, I will try and correct what I read from the above article.


Pumps

In practice maxing out the total volume of water circulating does is less important than the efficency of the radiator and block. In other words, a lower gpm loop may perform significantly better than a high gpm loop depending on the quality of the water block and the rad.

While it is true that reservoirs (or a res) do not help cooling it is also true that they are sometimes more convenient than a T-line though this is rare. They are also less prone to temperature fluctuations. If a res is built and secured correctly then there is no need to worry about them breaking/leaking. The best argument for a res is actual point #3 in the Tubing section below.

Generally speakiong disregard flow, better to look for a pump with a little more head. Don't bother with anything less than 6 feet (~1.9 m) of head. The only time you should consider flow is if you are comparing to otherwise nearly identical pumps.

Some prefer to leave their pump on all the time some prefer, like me, to turn it off when not in use.
It is really depends on how often you use your computer--turning it on and off--and your personal preference.


Waterblocks

Not much in the way or corrections but rather some notes.

In this section the biggest things overlooked by the author, in my mind, are:
1. the nature of your waterblock (performance, pressure drop) should be determined by your CPU and the rest of your loop
2. the inlet/outlet size of your waterblock is determined largely by the rest of the components in your loop (rad, pump)
3. NEVER EVER EVER MIX METALS! This is absolutely important and goes for the whole loop; poorly designed waterblocks tend to be the primary culprits, though.


Hosing/tubing

Hose size should be determined by your components, not the other way around. 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch, not much diffence other than component fit, although if you want slightly lower resistance go with 1/2 inch.

Three things:
1. Durability
Tubing--particularlly silicon tubing--does not always age well. Sometimes tubing will just go to pieces after a period of time, often taking your tubing with it.

2. Biological growth
One of the best ways to fight biological growth is to keep the water from being exposed to light. So clear tubing is not always the best option, though it is the most commonly used for its "leetness." Opaque or black tubing is best. I am not sure about the use of garden hose, though it has been suggested before.

3. Transpiration(I think that is the word)
Basically all flexible tubing experiences very slow leakage through the tubing walls. Thicker walls, less leakage. Different materials leak at different rates.
Silicon is, I think, the worst. Tygon the best. The rest fall somewhere inbetween.
The best argument for a res is if you have a large vented res which allows for lots of reserve water so you can more easily deal with this phenomenon. Usually people find somewhere between 1 tbsp and 1 cup of water lost every month from this phenomenon. I have gone through about three gallons in a little less than a year, though this is a bit extreme owing to how I built my loop.


Clamps

I would actually like to highlight and congratulate the author on getting this right. Too often I have seen/heard of people--myself included--using poor quality clamps. The only thing I would add is that here in the states they are sometimes called "metal worm clamps." Also, it is possible to over tighten them. Once you start to see the hosing "bludge" a bit then it is tight enough.


Water

Ok, I will spell it out for you. Use distilled water, found commonly wherever you buy food. DO NOT USE TAP WATER!
Disregard the authors advice for water additives.

Regading the nature of Antifreeze, it does not improve water's performance in the range of temperatures we use it in.
See here:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...rcooling+myths
And the condensed version here:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/index03.asp

The only water additive I recommend is Zerex Racing Super coolant, anything else is generally unnecessary/usless though there are exeptions.


Order of flow
Hunt around in the above links. It doesn't really matter, execpt for the T-line or res being located to best feed the pump. Other than that, no real diffence.


Radiator Installation
True.

Not necessarly, the rest of the components still need airflow and the diffence between air coming in a rad as opposed to air coming out of a rad is fairly minimal. The ideal air flow would have the air comming out of the radiator and passing over the motherboard, hard drives, and whatever else isn't directly water cooled.

As for the "best" placement of the rad, it comes down to opinion and circumstanes. The "best" place will depend on the rad chosen, size constranits, airflow concerns, who much work--modding--the user is willing to do and what the user is willing to live with.

That said the author's placement recomendation isn't a bad idea, but may not be the best for those whoever reads the article.

What he got right:
What he missed:
You should always have your fans "sucking" through a rad as this has been proven to be the most efficent use of CFMs.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Hi Spook.

Thank you for your lengthy reply. Very helpful for keeping the "little" things in mind.

So far I have decided to go with the following (I've always considered quality is worth the extra money, so please correct me if I am making the wrong choices):

---------------------------------
PURCHASE LIST
---------------------------------

Radiator: Thermochill PA120.3
(It has really good results and it seems you have room to "grow") (I'm guessing the pump and the radiator is where to spend the money, since those two pieces of hardware are a.) meant to last b.) affect performance the most)
I also found this performance comparison:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=77260

The 120.3 has the least pressure drop and performs by far the best overall. It would seem it is an excellent radiator.

Tubing: Tygon
I'm gonna go for 1/2 inch through out, since it seems from what I have seen that 1/2 performs better

T-line or Res:
I'll probably go with a T-line. It just seems a simpler setup and as mentioned, it affects the flow less.

CPU Block:
Swiftech Apogee CPU water block $47.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation
It would seem Swiftech make high quality products and the quality of the block affect the performance to a high degree as well

GPU Block:
Swiftech MCW60VGA cooler $59.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation

Chipset cooler:
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset cooler $29.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation

That's what I have so far. Unfortunately the PA120.3 is out of stock at DD and no word of when they will be in stock again.
It would seem the last major decision I have left is the pump. Despite ricecrispies recommendation looks like a solid one, I am still looking around.

As far as tubing and "bling-bling", I chose my case for a reason. It has no windows, no lights, no nothing. It's black and simple. Just the way I like it. I am building this to perform, not to impress. UV-lights and LEDs are more annoying then anything else to me.

-----------------------------------
A couple of questions:

1. In most cases people setup the loop so it goes to the CPU first. Any specific reasons as to why you wouldn't go to the GPU first? Since my system will be pressed the most during gaming, this makes sense to me. But of course I could be completely wrong. :)

2. Even though my case will fit everything inside, I am still considering mounting the radiator outside the case, for the sole reason of colder air. Is that a gain or am i just being picky?

3. How do I set the voltage for the fans?

4. About not mixing metals. Does that in practice mean, the metals should be the same for the pump, block and radiator or only the blocks?

5. Are there any studies of how performance longevity / life span increases due to lower temps? Just curious.

6. About clamps. This much I figured. Sure a poor quality clamp will do the job, but since leaks has got to be the biggest worry, it would seem better to spend whatever extra dollar on good clamps and sleep well at night, then the other way around?

7. Order of flow. So should the T-line be well above the pump or level or below, "to best feed the pump?"

8. Rad placement. The one thing I have read which made sense, is it is better to place it low, then high, since heat rises. Would that be a correct assumption?

9. What is the approximate lifespan of a WC system. Will it last several upgrades, if done proper? Of course blocks would have to be replaced if they don't fit the new components, but never the less. If the life span is decent, I'd rather spend more money now and have it last, then the WalMart method.

10. About the T-line. Is it a bad idea, to have it 'leaning' against something up top in the case, or does it have to be secured, with i.e. a fillport?

Thank you once again, for your help.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

As you have researched(!) and seen(!) the PA120.3 is about the best rad one can get these days. They are neigh on impossible to beat, except for the price.

You spend your money where it is needed.

Nothing to add.

This is reasonable, but I would remind you:
"When it comes to selecting waterblocks will you need to consider what CPU you have and what else if anything you plan on WCing. The nature of the CPU and what else there is in the loop has as much as anything else to do with waterblock selection."

It is hard to recommend a waterblock when we don't know what CPU you plan to strap it to. :)

You may also want to consider the Maze 3 or 4 VGA blocks, your choice. There have been debates about the viability of chipset WCing.
Many people, me included, feel that WCing the north bridge is mostly unnecessary, arguing that a good large passive heatsink will do the job just as well with less hassle.
Some feel it is absolutely necessary, arguing that some boards are too cramped for a large passive heatsink and that some chipsets (NV4) get too hot for a passive solution.

You want an Eheim pump. I am only somewhat familiar with some model numbers. The 1046, 1048, 1250 are all pumps that have been talked about here and elsewhere.

I think it is mostly out of habit and tradition. Also, many people will start their WCing loop with just the CPU then sometime later branch off into VGA and chipset cooling.

Unless you have to mount the rad outside the case to get cool air then I don't see a real need to.

I believe the answer is a reostat or a fan controller. Though I am not as familiar as some concerning undervolting fans.


Everything should be copper or brass, they mix well together. No aluminium. The pumps usually used in WCing do not have any metal in contact with the water, only ceramics and plastics.


Are you refering to the loops longevity or that of the components? I am only aware of some casual polls and discussions here and elsewhere regarding the general longevity of WCing loops. As for the components, it is a known fact--though I can not think of any links--that electronics generally last about twice as long for every 10C lower nominal operating temperature.

Someone will have to help me with this one. I believe it has to do with electron migration degradation and it's rate behaving similar to that of a chemical reaction.

Indeed, a better clamp will save you sleep. The metal worm style clamps are not that much more anyway.


The T-line should be wherever it will allow water to flow unaided by anything but gravity directly to the "in" side of the pump. The reason is to facilitate filling. If that means put the T-line at the bottom of the loop, then do, if that means put the T-line at the top of the loop, then do.

The only other consideration is the ease of bleeding the system. If you can cap the T-line and are fit enough for a little aerobic work then you need not worry over much about placing the T-line at the top of the loop.


The thing to remember is heat rises mostly when there is a large temperature delta. So in a way, yes, it would be better to place it low, but in practice if you have the air coming from the top and blowing down there will be no noticable difference.

There was a discussion about this a few months ago actually. I can't seem to find it right now.
EDIT: Here is something similar.
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7239

Assuming:
1. you put the loop together the right way the first time
2. you have non-faulty components
3. you have only all copper/brass metal in the loop
4. you keep the tubes from collapsing(just check the water level every month or so and use good tubing like you are)
5. you keep the system filled
6. you keep little nasties from growing

Then the only point of wear is the pump.

It all comes down to the pump, Eheim's appear to be the best. I am not aware of anyone every having one break on them when it wasn't their fault(ran it dry).

Considering all of that, some people have had WCing loops run for two or three years before they took them apart and redid them, often times just for the fun of it :hammer: .


Assuming you keep it well secured so you have a sealed loop then I don't see any reason to have to secured with a fill port. Some people like them thouigh.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Sorry about that. Of course you need to know the system I am cooling.

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Dual Core Processor
2.13GHz, 2MB, 1066MHz FSB, LGA775
Intel Core 2 Duo E6400

GPU:
eVGA 512-P2-N568-AR Geforce 7900GT KO 512MB
256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card - Retail
eVGA 512-P2-N568-AR Geforce

Haven't decided on what motherboard to use yet...

As far as security. Is it a good idea to add a flowmeter of some sort? Or are todays systems protected enough to shutdown when overheating?

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Spook's given a bunch of good info, but I have a little to add.

It is available at Jab-tech.

Trust Spook that the water's temp varies only slightly throughout the loop. Use whatever order gives the cleanest loop and smoothest bends.

There might be an advantage here, especially if you build a big radbox. With all respect due to Thermochill (hi, Marci!), I seriously doubt that the PA120.3 could outperform two Black Ice or Swiftech triple rads. And the price would be comparable, so if you don't mind the size...

I couldn't be happier with my Sunbeam Rheobus, also available at Jab-tech. And the price is right!

I've been using two tees at the top of my loop. Put one on each side of the system, and air vents from one when you fill from the other. You can fill and bleed in just a minute if you set it up right. Note that the Thermochill rads have a most excellent bleed screw that does the same thing.

And my next loop will have a convenient drain as well.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Nice. :nod:

An Apogee should work fine for you. There will always be a "better" waterblock, but you will not likly be able to tell much of a difference between an Apogee and something better.

I might consider waiting on getting a $300 video card until after the DX10 cards are out; up to you but I tend to overanalyze and procrastinate on the purchase.

Selection for best of breed motherboards for Conroes seem to be a difficult thing to pin down at this time.

Most people don't use flow indicators or flowmeters.
They usually are seen as being too restrictive and too awkward to implement. The prevailing wisdom is that the waterblock and water would absorb enough heat to cause the component temperature to rise slowly and that it would allow enough time for the failsafes to work.

In practice, their are two ways in which the water would stop flowing:

1. There is no power or the pump has stoped for whatever reason, in which case the common wisdom prevails. The system will trip it's failsafes.

2. There is some sort of failure in the loop and water has leaked out, maybe the pump housing cracked because it was faulty. Assuming the leaked water has not killed anything the water will evacuate the waterblock. Then, depending on your waterblock, it may get hot enough to melt any plastic on it and take various components with it.

Having a flowmeter in this later situation may report the problem before it becomes a bigger problem.
It is up to you. Personally, unless I can find one that offers next to no performance deficit and will shutdown my computer when it senses a problem then I don't believe I will use one.

Admittedly, I have not looked that hard, so I will bow out of further comment in the hopes that someone with more experience will be able to step in.

----------------------------------------

Thank you HammerSandwich for your take on it and what you have added. :cool:

Re: WC, where to start?
 

rads of similar shape, design, and ID are known to perform 1-3 C within each other. So manufacturers have looked at other issues like pressure drop, rad thickness, fpi and issues related such as noise level and fanspeed, and of course the all important factor of bling.

I recommend a coolingworks 32T rad at $54 at jabtech. I will not hesitate to say, it is runner-up to the thermochill rads.

The best rad deal is the bonneville HC which i got but you have to
1) build a cardboard/metal shroud. Sheet Metal can be free at certain metal shops or cost $5. Buying a shroud cost $10
2) mounting harware like threaded rods and screws bring the cost up up to $5 if you don't have all the washer and nuts
3) paint the rad will cost $5-10. Zero if you already have a can


The best pump is the
1) DDC-1 ultra with alphacooling top or 1/2" ID top mod.
2) DDC with a 1/2" ID top mod
3) aquaextreme 50Z/MCP 600
4) D5

Re: WC, where to start?
 

ricecrispi, I consider all of your heater core musts to be optional. They're not wrong, but someone on a budget (or the terminally lazy, like myself) can avoid them all.

1) There's no need for a shroud in a radbox - the box can be the shroud. Good example here.

2) Can be done with zipties.

3) Merely aesthetic.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

I also use the Bonneveille heatercore (2-302 I mentioned before) with the poor mans mod. Hacksaw the coopper tubes to fit the hose. I even took it one step further by using a desk box-fan with duct tape, a shoe box and a some styrofoam to form my rad box.

I do not want to belittle what ricecrispi recommended.

It is much more elegant, appealing, and permanent than mine or I think even HammerSandwich's.

Each to his own....

Also a lot of people use the pumps ricecrispi recommended. They work fine and are very popular.

Personally, I am of the opinion--from what I have seen-- that the Eheim's will last longer.

They say that money speaks louder than words, though.

I guess I will have to spill my little secret, I find must pumps used in WCing are too expensive for my tastes.

I use a Via Aqua 1300, and I have two Mag 3's for an upgrade I am planing.

It is not that I wouldn't want an Eheim but I find they are vey expensive.

The cheaper Eheim 1046 is about $55 but I got all three of my pumps shipping included for a little less than that.


Edit:
At about this point in the selection processes the components you use and choices you make really come down to personal preference and what you think is best.

For me affordability and modest performance was what I was really after.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

I'll take your word for it, and the price is less then half of the 120.3 so that's great. My only concern is what Spook said - "dont mix metals" and it is not specified what metal the 32T is, but it does however say: Chrome barbs. I was thinking of following Spooks advice and go for a mix of Copper and Brass, or Copper only if possible. Is it ok to mix-in Chrome in the system?

I have tried finding the pumps you recommended rice, it might be the model numbers are similar to others making them hard to find, but I kind of like this one:
Danger Den DD12V-D5 Pump $74.95
"...pump with near silent operation and a built in flow adjustment potentiometer!"

and this one:
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump $69.95
"Considerably reduced audible operating noise: the high pitch frequency of the MCP655 is now eliminated thanks to a new chipset controller"
It seems to be a later model of the 650 you recommended.

I'm still looking however, so Eheims are still an option, Spook. ;)

I found it for a "mere" $47.99.

I never thought I'd be this excited about getting a WC system. :)

The bonus is this:
I work as a graphic designer, running my own company. I need a new box at work. Been thinking about getting a G5, but instead I came up with this.

I get a new case for my current system + new HD. I move everything out of my current box to the new case.
Current specs are:

Windows: Windows XP5.1 (Build 2600) Service Pack 2
Memory (RAM): 2048 MB DDR 400
CPU Info: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3500+
CPU Speed: 2154.9 MHz
Sound card: SB Audigy 2 ZS Audio [8800]
Display Adapters: RADEON Pro 9800
Monitors: 2 x 19 inch Viewsonic PF790 Professional Series
CD / DVD Drives: SONY DVD RW DRU-810A
Mouse: Logitech MX510
Hard Disks: Total of ~ 700 GB
Motherboard: MS-7025
Socket: 939


I keep everything except what I am getting, i.e. CPU, GPU, Mobo, DDR2. I sell my box to my company and save a crapload of money instead of getting a G5. And I use that money for my new box. The current machine I have is just dandy for heavy duty 2-D applications so it should work fine in the office. :)

Re: WC, where to start?
 

For your questions:

The Coolingworks rad is the traditional copper and brass design we know and love. Mixing in chrome barbs isn't an issue.

For pumps, the DDC/MCP350 pump (as mentioned) is probably the current all-round king. With the mod, you're looking at very high pump head, quieter than pretty much anything bar the 1046 (and maybe the 1048), very compact footprint and provided you don't duff the mod, it'll be pretty damn reliable. That said, the 655 and D5 are good too. As for Eheims, I've had a couple (1048 and 1250) and they were very reliable and quiet. The downside comes in performance (they don't have the head pressure you need), size (all are bigger than the other pumps mentioned and the 1250 is friggen huge.) and the fact that they are AC-powered (not everyone thinks this is a disadvantage though). I intend to get the silence of an Eheim with a DDC by enclosing it in foam, in a box, on foam. Of course, most people probably don't need to go that far ;)

Personally, my next setup is probably going to be a TDX, Maze4 GPU, DDC, Tygon 3/8in and Black Ice Pro II, all from dangerden. Of course, that's mainly because I live in NZ and shipping is such a killer...

Re: WC, where to start?
 

The ehiem are great pumps. I heard some working past 5-6 years and no problem.

I'm lucky to get MCP 655 for less than $40. I get most of my Wcing stuff at half off retail on clearance at micro center

Re: WC, where to start?
 

I'm thinking it is gonna be an Eheim after all. It would seem they are quiet compared to many. And if I have to choose between performance and low noise, I am definitely ready to sacrifice a "little" perfomance.

Probably a 1048.

Another question. Is it safe to encase an Eheim in foam in box on foam, as mentioned above? I will be going for quiet for sure. If it means modding "strange" boxes, I'll happily do it.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

IMHO you don't so much need a foam box for a 1048 (or 1046 or HPPS) as a way to isolate pump vibration before it gets transferred to your case and converted to noise by, say, a side cover.
So... think about a foam underpad or vibration isolating mounts. I've made vibration isolating mounts from short sections of soft silicone hose with screws glued on to either end (more trouble than it's worth unless you are going to be transporting the PC, and then the manafactured ones likely will hold up better).

IMHO, if you are using a block that doesn't rely on high(ish) pressure (so a swiftech 6000 or apollo (?) - or even a 5002 if you can get a deal on one of those), you don't need more pump than a 1048, and a 1046 will work fine (a bit quieter/ less vibration than the 1048). There's an expensive DC version of the 1046 called the HPPS (from Innovatek, but made by Eheim) that's a bit quieter than the 1046 and gives temps about like the 1048. I've a w/c PC running one of these pumps in a music studio and the owners are very p[leased with the noise level.
Pay attention to other ways vibration can "escape" your pump - like stiff hoses or the pump leaning against something.)
W/C ing for quiet is fun - and you can still o/c a bit...

Re: WC, where to start?
 

Bob, you've used a few HPPS pumps from what I've seen. How much reliability/lifespan do you think the HPPS has? Does it get louder with age? It's a not inexpensive pump...

Re: WC, where to start?
 

I've used a few. I have yet to see one deteriorate with age, although it's only been a few years now (not near my notes - the oldest is the one in the studio, which I think was three or more years ago).
I'm sure they eventually do wear out, but all indications are that they'll last at least as long as the 1046s, so I've got a few years to go yet.
You're right that they're pricey - especially in cooling per $ - but they're quiet. They do vibrate, though - like the 1046 and 1048 (more than the bigger Eheims as there's less mass to resist being moved). I've sometimes thought that the real answer to pump vibration was to bolt them solidly to something like a 15lb scuba weight. I've turned into a warm-water diver, though, and never seem to have weights on hand... (Not that I ever thought ice diving was fun, or even a good idea :))

Re: WC, where to start?
 

That's great news about the HPPS, especially since I think my almost-2-year-old DDC is getting louder. (Of course, my PC's getting quieter, so I may be fooling myself...) Interestingly, BrianS just suggested the same mass loading in my system's thread. Don't you have any motorcyle-racing ballast sitting around? I know there's a bunch of shifter-kart lead in my basement.

Re: WC, where to start?
 

I've never used weights for motorcycle racing. You certainly don't need weight to get around a track (a bike's a camber-thrust turner and leans to balance side thrust, as well as to generate that thrust though camber - at least to the point where bits start dragging on the pavement, which is why a rider might move out of the saddle.) I've also never seen it for handicapping (as in minimum weight for a particular class). Might just be something I'm unaware of, though.