Another New Water Block In the Works
 

Well i just got started on my second water block. i am not expecting great results but I connot get the idea out of my head.


The main channels in the top and bottom are 3/8" wide. The middlw three channels are 1/8" wide. I will connect the top and bottom tomorrow. That way there will be a consistant 3/8" flow through the block. And yes I know the fins will restrict flow but it will not be a lot. I am also going to mill off about 1/6" off the center 2 fins so water will not only go around them but also on top of them which will add a little more surface area and help with flow a little. I left the base at about 3/16" for now.

Here are some preliminary pics:

http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/001.jpg
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/002.jpg
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/003.jpg

the fins over the centre section should give you some decent performance due to the increase in surface area. If the flow rate is really poor, just put a high top on it that allows a lot of flow.

Or have a centre inlet and two outlets

I am hoping it does alright. I liked your design that you posted but I am not so sure that a middle inlet is as good as people think. I reversed the flow on my original block to the middle was the outlet and the temps stayed the same. It is something I am going to experiment with. All I need to do with this design is make a different top and I can add the duel outlets and center inlet or like I am going to start out with the inlet and out let on both ends of the channel.

Instead of running the fins all the way through the block I figured I would put them where the most heat is in the center channel. This makes it a lot easier to mill than running the fins all the way through.

I have done all the milling by the hand wheels on my mill. If it workes out I will make up the code for the CNC and keep it on file for the future.

I should have it pretty much done tomorrow afternoon and on the computer Sunday as I want the silicone to dry. I also left enough room around the channels to add a groove for a O ring if I feel like it.

The block I made that screws together has run about 8 days 24/7 so far with just that silicone sealant and there has been no leaks so far.

Will post pics when I get the milling done.

Here it is after the final milling. I got a little rough around a few of the corners but that will all be fixed if I decide to make up the CNC code and do it with the computer instead of the hand wheels.
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/004.jpg

I don't think it looks too rough in that photo, maybe it's the brightness of the Aluminium thats stuffing the camera up.

With all that extra room on the sides you could make up a coldplate mount as well with 4 screws holding it down

hey jaydee, remember, that a rough surface casuses turbulant flow which is ideal. Other then that, the block looks really good!

I like it alot. How about sharing the wealth and getting me some g code so I can make and try one out. And I have no problem hooking up and seeing what we can do together as a team effort. Ill draw up some designs and see if U think we can work together. Also, do you have a laptop that U can take on the road with you? no sence in not utilizing your down time to at least create some designs, and I can prolly get them milled for ya. If U can e mail me some g codes.

I think we can come up with some really good stuff. What internet connection U got at home? fast enought to get some over the net voice chat, so we dont rack up phone bills? we can talk and pass advise that way.

Keep it up man. Also if U want me to run those block in copper for ya, I can creat some "End Mill" friendly g code that takes lighter cuts, but takes longer to mill, to help get your money back.

I would love to see how that new block preforms. Looks like it could be a real winner. Also a note, if you made the channels a bit wavey, that would force more turbulant flow. Just an idea.

Here is the the pic of the finished version.

http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/005.jpg

I havn't made any code yet. I did this one with the hand wheels by hand.:D I will test it tomorrow once the seal dries and if it looks like it will have decent temps I will make up the code for it and send it to you.

I got cable so speed shouldn't be to bad. I don't have a mic just yet though.:D What kind of software do you have to chat on? I will load it up and see if I can get it to work.

I don't have a laptop.:( But I am working on getting one. May take a few months though. Sucks I have three comps but no lap top with a job that requires me to travel.:rolleyes: :D

I use microsofts gamve voice there is a shareware version U can download, or roger wilco, bot are primarally ised for chatting while gaming, but works just as good for utter things

fix, if you make one in Cu and one in Al, I'd like to see you send them off to Joe

then we can compare Cu vs Al in both Spir@l and the new block in this thread, we might find that with one design it doesn't matter, while in another design it might be 4C

I'd bet the spir@l wouldn't matter as much because of it's central inlet and how most of the heat is cooled by the coolest water, while in the one in this thread the differance would be a bit more because of the blocks design and how the water is slightly warmed up by the time it gets to the majority of the heat

Brad I would love to use JOE to our fullest extent!!!!

But I need the code from Jay!!!!!!!!


Hope Joe isnt going to mind me using him for his impartial abilities, cause I plan on it, if he is ok with it.

I have to make the code first.;) Before I hook up the new block I am modding my heater core with barbs and going to install fresh hoses so I can also test the corrosion effect as everything will be brand new!!! I havn't used the heater core yet so it is still clean on the inside. Next Sunday I will take it all apart and see what the effect is with just tap water.

I sent the drawing to my engineer budy and he is going to write up some usable code for it. He is better than I am at it. Although this shouldn't be that hard.

I think this's a good design Jaydee...

keep up the good work ;)

Al

Well I just got it all hooked up and running SETI with it and it isn't great so far. not as good as my first design. I think I left the base to thick. I went with 3/16" this time instead of 1/8" like i usually do. I will let it run for a week while I do the corrosion test and then mill out the channels to 3/8" deep and a base of 1/8".

So far it is running 10C over water temp at 35C.:( With the Xp1600+@1400mhz 2.05Vcore.:(

is your flow rate really low, or what?

remounting might be the first choice, then making all the channels much deeper so the base is only 1/8" thick would be my first choices. Or maybe you could try the centre inlet and two outlets idea

Flow seems to be about the same as the other not to bad. It is mounted alright as I already checked. I think the deeper channels will be a good thing though. Actually about what I ecpected, maybe a little worst. I think it can be improved upon.

Raised the FSB to 145mhz for 1553mhz and it is steady at 37C load and 26C water temp. Still not really bad, but not ground breaking either.

Block mounted.
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB3/006.jpg
Heater core and 1 120mm Panaflow.
http://www.dorrellco.com/rad.JPG

YOU! need a shroud my friend...

Well being water temp is only 3C above room I don't think I will bother. Not to mention I just put this together today and will take all apart next weekend, put it back together and do it again week after week. That is the only reason I have not put this in my case yet as I tear it apart to often!!!!:D:D

I could make a shroud real quick at work as we do stuff like that all day. I may do it when and if I ever decide to put it in a case permanently.

how often do you take the fan off the radiator?

Constantly. I will add one, remove one, change rads, ect, ect. The fan isn't attached as it sits. My setup changes to constantly to make anything permanent. I will also change to a Delta 120 from the panaflow 120 from time to time.:D

wow , how much did your mill cost you , is it one you can control from the computer?

Yep it is a CNC Mill. It cost $1,800 shipped with a few accesories. It isn't a highly capable mill but it is just fine for small stuff like water blocks. I need to get better with ACAD and writing the code.

U and me both Jaydee. I am getting good with solidoworks, but still having problems with g code and tool pathing.

Hey Jay, we need to take some pics of your CNC mills in action and such and make a page about waterblock developing, as a trans america team of sorts. To show people that the little guys are here and its not hard to get into, maybe we can get some more people doing what we do, and band together, if nothing else, then for the info factor.

Just for the info, I have a CNC desktop mill as well, and i paid $2312 for mine with a few accesories. These desktop mills are alot slower then the big machines, but are very capable of doing the job

Thats sounds like a good idea. Once I get home from work tomorrow (if I have to work at all) I will mill up one of my other blocks and take some pics of it working. We can go from there.