A7V133 temps high?
 

Ok, booted up my rig for the first time today. First attempt at watercooling.

MagDrive 500Gph
1/2" ID tubing
Heatercore Rad with 2 X 120mm fans sucking air through
Maze2 waterblock
A7V133

1.2Ghz Tbird @ 1.2Ghz
Bios idle temp: 37C (seems high?)

1.2Ghz @ 1.4Ghz
Bios idle temp: 40.5C

1.2Ghz @ 1.5Ghz
Bios idle temp: 41.5C

The bios reads the motherboard temp to be 27C (About 76 F I think).

Is it really hard to get the Maze2 to contact the core completly flat? I used Arctic Silver II and applied it exactly as they said. The only thing I can think is that maybe I didn't put enough on the core? Shouldn't make THAT big a difference though right?

I think that the problem is that the waterblock is not sitting perfectly flat. Does this sound right or should I look for other problems?

Any special tricks to make sure the waterblock is perfectly flat?

Thanks in advance,
Jason

Also, so other observations:

Waterblock is cool to the touch
Rad is not hot, nor is air coming off rad.

when you are in BIOS, your CPU isn't idle.(noops)

try win2000 and MBM to get your temps.

The A7V-133 temps are way off; mine is about 10-12C too high with water cooling when compared to an externally mounted probe touching the side of the core. This difference is only about 1-2C with a hs/fan. I think that the PCB under the CPU heats up with no fan there to move air around the riser card with all the capacitors. I found that hanging a fan pointed at the riser card would lower CPU temps 5C according to MBM but the Compunurse's temps barely budged. It seems to me the temps are usually even further off at idle because the mobo is always generating heat even when the CPU is not working hard.

As far as mounting the Maze evenly, I would suggest that you pull it off and take a look at your imprint from thermal paste. It should be even. If it isn't then that could well be your problem. Reapply a thin coat and then diagonally tighten down the nuts a little at a time so that you keep even pressure as the block tightens down. I tighten my Maze2 down just as far as I can with hand tightening, and have never run into any problems from the pressure.

For reference, my Maze2; big momma; Magdrive3; all 3/8" setup has load temps of around 37-8C with ambient of 28-9C at 1350 1.9V. So your temps aren't awful but they are kinda high for idling.

Hope that helps!

The maze 2 will usually level out well on it's own as long as the hoses aren't placing any forces on it.

I do however extra lap mine with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit wet paper. When you pull the block off and wipe off the Arctic Silver II, there will be an imprint of the core (you will be able to read the writing backwards!) so I know it's on there flat. The extra lapping does nothing for cooling I found (as the Danger Den products are very flat, unlike the buffed products out there).

PHaestus has it though. My DigiDoc reports 15c lower after watercooling, yet ASUS probe and MBM5 only slightly cooler than air.

Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.

So is the KT7A thermosister any more accurate? Digidoc reads 37.5c and mobo reads 43c on my 1.3ghz Tbird running at stock. Room temp 26C

Using:
BE Cooling jagged block
Aquacoil
Eheim 1250

Both are garbage, My motherboard nurse is right on the side of the slug and reads -6 C, the KT7A reads 22C, hmmm, you tell me, the Asus was a little more accurate, but not by much, get a extra sensor and place it on the side of the slug to get a real reading.

Jim

Try the FXD bios at: http://www.braziliantech.com/en-us/
I have the 1005A/FXD and it's working great. My temps went down dramatically.

For more info and FAQs try: http://www.a7vtroubleshooting.com/

Enjoy.

I tried the 1005a/FXD BIOS and my system became easily locked at higher clock speeds and memory timings. According to the maker it just changes one of the register settings to enable idle mode. I'm back to the 1005a ASUS as it was the only thing that would boot 1650+.

I did however realize a 5c lower temperature at idle than I ever have, and my full load temps where same. However for the average intermitant use idle mode could greatly reduce temperatures (as it takes time for water to heat).

I wonder if ASUS realizes a problem and this is why they don't enable it (it did freeze half of the time during the SoundBlaster Driver install, but the other half spuratically for no reason).

Anyone else have this working, or having problems???

I just flashed the 1005A/FXD and my temps havent budged. im running a 1.1 TB not OCed on a A7V133 and my temps are at 40C all day long at idle and full.


any ideas

40c is about the max with a 25c ambiant on my a7v133 1005a 1.4 ayhja "y" at 1650, it drops about to 37 at idle. With the 1005a/fxd I saw the same at full load, but down to near 30 at idle!. Although it was always unstable for some reason.

Is there a program for recording the bios into a .bin or .awd file??? A good friend has a A7V-E and it came with v1003. He bought it a couple months ago and the latest official is 1002B, so we are thinking of flashing down as he's having some goofy problems (but hate to loose the "newer" version). Shareware or freeware or something free please (if available).

I tried flashing my Bios last night with the 1005a/FXD bios and, using the proper utility, I ran into a small little problem. For some reason when it was trying to flash the bios, it always says "Flash Memory Type: UNKNOWN."

However, when I booted back up, the bios version said it was using 1005a. Anyone else run into this or know how to fix it?

Also, after booting up with it, temps are exactly the same. The thing I don't understand, is that my 1.2Ghz tbird @ 1.2Ghz and 1.65V will read 40C in BIOS after just sitting there for 15min, but then after I load up Windows and let it sit there for 30min or so, it reads 50C. In fact it reads 50C from the time it enters Windows. In other words, the temp never changes from 50C. Now, this is under Win98 using the Asus Probe. I figured it was inaccurate so I got MBM.

There are two sensors on MBM that appear to be the CPU temp. One of them is simply "Asus sensor 2" or something and the other is "Asus sensor 2(CUSL2)."

The first sensor will read 40-42C in Win98 all the time and the CUSL2 sensor will read temps about 10C higher all the time. I really have no idea which is correct. But I pray that the first one is the more accurate read.

Thinking that my waterblock was not making good contact, I took it off, and sure enough the core imprint was right there, nice and neat. Reapplied some thermal paste, bolted her back down and booted up again with same results.

I was thinking a good way to make sure my cooling system is working would be to disable the rad fans and just see if the rad will heat up a little bit (with a hand on the power switch so I don't melt anything). I havn't done this yet but I might give it a try.

Any help appreciated,
Jason

If your BIOS show 1005a/FXD then it's the version with idle (as long as you enable PCI Master Read Caching, and Delayed Transaction in CMOS). Otherwise if it said 1005a then the flash did not update. Either your using a bad program, bad copy of BOIS file, or have some sort of shadowing enabled (always disable shadowing before flashing).


In MBM 5 with a A7V133:

Asus 1 is Motherboard
Asus 2 is CPU
Asus 3 is JTPWR (external thermister)
Asus 2 CUSL2 doesn't exhist (it will default back to Asus 2)

The higher one is probably you CPU, the second one is the Motherboard, and unless you attached an external thermister or power supply temperature lead, ASUS 3 will probably show negative.

Yep. Make sure you enable/disable right options in chip config.
Also make sure you've got the *very* latest Asus flash util (d/l it from Asus Germany). Ah BTW check that 'Bios flash' option in bios config, it enables/disables bios flashing...
If 1005A/FXD doesnt cut it for you try 1004/FXD or even a 1006x/FXD (i didnt check out lately).
All in all you bios name shows up during POST so if you don't read 'FXD' you didnt flash it properly.