Good reason NOT to use clear Epoxy!!! And Spiral problems...
http://www.dorrellco.com/problems/001.JPG
http://www.dorrellco.com/problems/001.JPG Doh!!!:( Should have added screws. While I was milling this: http://www.dorrellco.com/problems/003.JPG I heard some weird water dripping noise, took me a while to figure out what it was. Sigh, bad day and it is only 9:15am. That was my 3rd attemp at my Spiral and it is messed up and now $100 XP1600 is probably toast. Still undetermined. Well i have one more optimization to the code for the Spiral and that should fix all my problems wit hthe backlash causing the channel to collaps. the first pass dosn't follow the right path because of to much backlash to I will cut the first one in at 1/64" instead of the 1/16" it is now. That should do it, but I have to change all the code again. First two passes at 1/64" and the rest at 1/16" will work good. The second two passes worked great, but the first was off. |
isnt that y fixitt uses o-rings and screws?
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ah ok i c i thought the block that leaked wuz that spiral at the bottom...yea the channels are pretty close to the edge of the block, too bad, cool lookin block
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The XP1600 Boots up, but not sure if it works right or not. Going to put it in my main sytem and see if it works in it.
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Woooo Hoooo the XP1600 works just fine. Once the mobo dries out I will test it. It should work though. I have had a few other similar disasters that didn't harm the mobo. They are a lot tougher than people think.
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Yeah, from my experience, if electronics get wet, they wont work while wet... but if you hair dryer them for awhile it usually seems to fix them right up. Honestly, all the components on those mobos are sealed air tight. The water just shorts the hell out of everything..
Peace |
hey Jay, epoxy could work fit you roughed up the surfaces to be bonded. Give it something to lock onto instead of 2 smooth surfaces. Try it, I would recomend sandblasting, but rough sand paper should do it.
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geez - you guys are lucky... when my H2O block on a peltier leaked, I lost my CPU, my mobo, and my video card...
-Kevin |
Instead of using epoxy - would something like marine goop not work better.
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it prolly would work better, but would look horrid if its not clear
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Yeah it needs to be clear with a acrylic top or it really defeats the purpose. I have some exellent epoxy for non acrylic tops which is made to bond metal together and it works great when used with screws. My Aluminum water block #1 on my site was epoxied with this stuff and it is still solid to this day. But the stuff is a nasty greenish grey color and cannot be used with acrylic anyway. The Clear Epoxy stuck to the Copper OK on this one but it did not stick to the acrylic. It just poped right off when I took the mounting nuts off.
I want to go the O ring route but I cannot find any locally (on a Saturday)that will fit right. Got the code ready for the Spiral so I am going to give it another shot. Be bcak in an hour. |
What..... NO HAND WHEELS????? come one man your slackin!!!!!!
LOL Rought up the tops a bit. |
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Well here it is "The Super (mini) Spiral". http://www.dorrellco.com/Spiral/001.JPG http://www.dorrellco.com/Spiral/002.JPG http://www.dorrellco.com/Spiral/003.JPG |
well, its.......... small all right.
alot of wasted space, but I see plenty of room for an O ring. maybe you could curve your outlet a bit more around the spiral and have it end somewhere between the mounting holes. that would deffonitly give you anought room for the o-ring Most O rings are .100 thick |
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GO FOR IT!!!!!!! I dont mind, but remember its MY DESIGN!
No marketing! |
what about making an oval spiral? we are bound to 50mm wide, but most of the time we can go to 80mm long. we can just make the channels 3/8" wide in the 50mm axis, and say have them go out to 1/2" - 5/8" on the 80mm axis
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As the problem is getting something to stick to the acrilic, why not go for something like this line as it will bond the acrilic and might well bond the "easier" copper.
http://www.ipscorp.com/wo_html/weldonhome.html |
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