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-   -   What radiator should I use??? (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=2869)

Redbeard 04-21-2002 02:51 PM

What radiator should I use???
 
Ok here it is ...I am building a close loop system with a
1)Eheim 1046 [5l/min] this one is changed in a eheim 1048
2)Waterblock of own design.
3)A 120 mm Fan from Sunon [DP201A].


But what kind of radiator should I use too cool a AMD 1.6 ghz CPU

First pick would be a black ice extreme Rev.2

But I really wouldnt now of this boy can handle the job.


IF anyone can give me advice incl.hard data about this supject.

futRtrubL 04-21-2002 04:47 PM

That should be able to handle almost any config.
If you tell us what you are cooling we'll be able to give you a more definative answer.

Edward

ECUPirate 04-21-2002 08:33 PM

Unless you already own the 1046, I'd get the 1048... I've got a 1250, but the 1048 would have probably been sufficient. I believe it has bigger fittings than the 1046 as well.
RE radiator: save your money, get a heater core from autozone. Do your research at http://www.heatercore4u.com . The ones for Ford seem to be a good fit. Most have 5/8" fittings on both sides, and are about 6" wide by however tall you need. Mine's an Econoline van heater core... 11" tall. :)

Brad 04-22-2002 03:47 AM

if you have a 220mm fan, go for the biggest heater core you can find. If you mistyped and meant 120mm, the BIX v2 will be fine for just about any heatload ;)

Avatar28 04-22-2002 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
if you have a 220mm fan, go for the biggest heater core you can find. If you mistyped and meant 120mm, the BIX v2 will be fine for just about any heatload ;)
Or you could spend just a little more than what you would at Autozone and buy one from somewhere like D-Tek Customs. It costs a touch more than Autozone, but by the time you buy the barbs and solder and torch to solder the barbs on, it's much less difference. Then there's the time and effort required on your part to actually solder the barbs on and the frustration factor of trying to get it right and not have it leak. Personally, I'd much rather pay someone who knows what they're doing to do it right.

Brad 04-22-2002 01:59 PM

I fully agree, but not too many stores carry a rad which can handle a 220mm fan ;)

Avatar28 04-22-2002 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
I fully agree, but not too many stores carry a rad which can handle a 220mm fan ;)
With a shroud it wouldn't really matter anyways. The fan just creates negative air pressure inside the shroud which pulls air in across the Rad to try an equalize things. That's assuming you have the rad sucking, of course. I doubt a rad that big would work well blowing unless you have a huge heatercore. And even then you'd probably have a big dead zone beneath the center of the fan.

Redbeard 04-22-2002 05:21 PM

final analasys
 
I wanna thx you all for the tips i got from you
First of all I took my eheim 1046 back too the store where I bought it and got a 1048.

The same day I ordered a combo radiator from Dtek.


Is there a admin how can close this supject

Avatar28 04-22-2002 06:31 PM

Re: final analasys
 
Quote:

Originally posted by Redbeard
I wanna thx you all for the tips i got from you
First of all I took my eheim 1046 back too the store where I bought it and got a 1048.

The same day I ordered a combo radiator from Dtek.


Is there a admin how can close this supject

Don't worry about it. Once we all stop posting, it'll fall off the list eventually.

ECUPirate 04-22-2002 06:36 PM

Bump... :D

ECUPirate 04-22-2002 06:37 PM

oh... many of the ford fads come w/ 5/8" barbs. Mine was perfect... about 2.5" of barb sticking straight out.. no cutting/ modding req'd.

Nordic 04-23-2002 04:12 AM

Just for the record, I have a very small radiator with a 92 mm (35 cfm) fan sucking air through it. It cools my XP1500+ and GF3Ti200 very well. But if I overclock and up the voltage on the cpu I get radically higher temperatures so I'm looking at getting something bigger.

I got it from DangerDen and it looks like this:
http://www.dangerden.com/images/blac...ad2b_thumb.gif

You will find it at the bottom of this page:
http://www.dangerden.com/mall/radiators.asp
4" x 8-1/2" Low Pressure Drop Cooler

I would personally like to get either a Black Ice (for looks) or a heater core (for better performance and price than the BI).

Avatar28 04-23-2002 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Nordic
I would personally like to get either a Black Ice (for looks) or a heater core (for better performance and price than the BI). [/b]
Why not get both in one?

http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/images/br0s6wq1.jpg

You can add the shroud for even better performance and still be cheaper than the BIX. If you have at the shroud with a little elbow grease and brasso, I understand that you can polish it up to look like chrome, the same as the barbs.

http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/images/br0t6jmi.jpg

Crobe 04-24-2002 07:04 PM

Quote:

oh... many of the ford fads come w/ 5/8" barbs. Mine was perfect... about 2.5" of barb sticking straight out.. no cutting/ modding req'd.
how did you connect this? Were you using 5/8" tubing? or does 1/2" stretch enough to get over the barbs???? I'm curios because I don't feel like spending all that much on a radiator....

Cyco-Dude 04-24-2002 07:31 PM

1/2 inch ID silicone tubing will stretch over 5/8 inch barbs.

Nordic 05-03-2002 11:47 PM

Oooohh.. Avatar28, that heater core looks sexy :drool:
Might have to check out dtek..

Avatar28 05-09-2002 12:33 PM

I agree. That's the one I'm going to get. Although if I end up with one of those Chaintech SE GF4 cards, I may end up trying to find some way to make the barbs and shroud gold colored.


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