Ugly temps....
 

Well I got my maze3 going. Im using a tranny cooling 6 pass rad.

And I Idle at about 47...

This isnt correct, I should have better temps.

My ambiants about 32.

Im using water wetter...

Hmmm, Ill have to tweak it :eek:

Yeah that is not great. Are you going to try the BLPro?

BLPro???

Maybe I should check how I mounted my block?

cause with a 6 pass rad, i should get good temps...

Im using 2 120mm 85cfm fans on it

let it sit a day or so and see what happens. also, what are your full load temps?
if it doesnt change in a couple days, id remount the block and check to make sure the core is making a good imprint on the waterblock. what thermal paste are you using? you might try using a little more...

Im using Antec Silver...

I dont knnow what my full load temps are let, Im afraid to find out.

Ill try later, its getting late.

Well, my water temp is 31, my ambiant is 32...

Should my core be around there? if working well????

Must be my mounting

I'm having the same problems bud with a 2100+ and Maze3. Springs are compressed completely. Can't seem to get lower than 48C (using CPUIdle and it goes to 42C)

Tranny coolers do not work. Period.

Heater core, heater core, heater core.

The 1984 chevette unit is the best one I've used.
(Ford Bronco core is larger, but it's got weird fitting sizes)

i believe hes using a BI Pro...right?

How can your water temp be lower than your ambient temp?


edit: I'm a fool:)

lol, thats how it normally is. check what ya wrote bro ;)
but yeah, water temp lower than ambient?? methinks ur readings are off

Like said above get a rad. Next are your fans running 7v or 12. Even with water cooling you either need a huge rad or a decent fan pulling a fair amount of air. Whithout it you will only get normal temps but it will be quite. You have to choose what you want but you will not get both. Killer temps even in water cooling will mean more noise.

The problem might simply be with the fast flow rate but yes, there's a problem.

1-Look at the mounting
2-try to clamp a hose, just to see if a reduced flow rate would perform better.
3-Knowing your pump, you picked a really bad rad (my opinion). You should try a big heater core, since your pump won't be limited as much by the pressure drop.

Here is some mor info.

I have a 6 pass tranny cooler, AND another 4 pass...The 4 pass is not hooked up.

fans are 12v of course.

Umm the tranny rad has 3/8 fittings, But I could cut them down, and then they will be 1/2.

No Im not using the BI Pro, Its damaged and Im trying to fix it. Ill try it later if it works. (Long story)

I was using water wetter with my water, Ya my readings were probally off. They must be around 31-32 water and ambiant. Ambiant being lower.

then hook up the 4 pass as well. This will (hopefully) reduce your flow rate a bit, and give you better performance.

BTW, you can stack tranny coolers, that's what they're good for...

I couls make my rads have 1/2 fittings instead of the 3/8...

And I can run both rads...Which will be about a 10 pass.

The 10 pass will help, but I'd hold off on trimming those fittings. Test your rig with the 2 rads first.

This is the impeller of my pump.

THere are rubber fins, and there bend that way, Its odd, I hope someone will understand my Idea.

I was thinking, what If I cut some of the fins off? Would it lower the GPH?

I odnt know how many fins there are.

Just an Idea

Opps :rolleyes:

Ya I plan on it, I need more fans!!!

The reason Im disaponted is because I was using a cheap $15 Staples HSF, and I had temps around 35-37!!!! Seriously!

Ive been using the same temp prob for both..Well On-board.

Bad idea... very bad idea... You'd be much better off clamping a hose.

The rubber fins are what makes your pump so strong. They are very specifically mesured and altering them, even in the least, could render the pump inoperable.

If you STILL insist on modding your pump, consider folding a couple of fins back on themselves: it's not a permanent mod.

Don't trim the impeller, unless you have a spare or a replacement part is cheap.

Your high reported temps are probably the result of the "dead air" effect around the socket when you take away the airflow that the heatsink fan was delivering over the motherboard around the socket.

in other words, your temp sensor is being heated by nearby components that would otherwise be cooled by the wash off the normal heatsink/fan.

Nooo, don't try and trim the fins yourself unless you have really accurate equipment. The impeller needs to be perfectly balanced, or it will start to shake and rattle and kill itself when it starts up (depending on how unbalanced it is). You would need to cut each fin to exactly the same length. If you wanted to remove a whole fin, you would need to balance it by removing a fin on the opposite side IF the fins are arranged in an even pattern. You might find that the fins are arranged in a pentagon shape, and you couldn't really remove a fin from each side due to the angles.

Ya you guys are right, I never thought of that, having them the same size that is.

Ill try using a temp probe on the core, see what that reads.