watercooling gurus needed...
 

I ordered my first h2o system today & want to know of any tips, tricks, warnings... from anyone who has experience:

DD Maze3-1 (copper top)
DD video block (basic 3.8")
DD chipset block (1/2")
BIX
Si tubing
wetter
ehiem "1200" pump

I plan on making my own res, got the -1 without a pelt for now (not ready to jump into TECs yet, but want to be ready) & am using the standard video block because it will work best with my Xtacy Everything card & I don't have a GF3 or 4 yet. The CPU is a Northwood & the MB is an Asus P4T-E.

I already heard about the plastic M3 cracking & melting, the plastic bolts melting, springs being too weak, but any perspective on these or other "known issues" with the above equipment would be great.

Looks good. I think that the problems with the clear top Maze3's seem to be random. I've heard a lot about them, but I think that forums like this one give people a voice (to those that are interested in listening), so it seems more common that it really is. (I hope!! :() I have a clear top, and have thought about putting a copper top on it, but I've been running it for about 3 weeks now, 24x7, with no problems.

good setup choices there, how are you going to arrange the loop? I'd have the maze3 in parrallel with the two smaller blocks in series with each other

good idea, I wondered about keeping them all in series. the video block has 3/8" fittings that could really restrict the flow. BTW, I was planning on making a res on the bottom of the case.

I was wondering what to do with the pump though. I thought the flowrate of the ehiem was a little excessive, but I got it anyways because I figured it would be better suited to my idea. I wanted to experiment with adjusting the flowrate using a thermally regulated PWM controller, but wasn't sure if there was something a little simpler. I also wasn't sure how much faster the pump will wear out or leak with the pulsating torque. i am experienced with the electronics involved, but I is there a good reason not to do this?

You have a PWM controller that handles 120v? What happens when you try and pulse alternating current? I would think that wouldn't work :confused:

erm, oh yeah. i guess i'd need to find a DC pump first, hehe.

Heh I thought you knew something I didn't, electronics is not my skill. Anyway I wouldn't use DC. Theres a reason why everyone uses AC pumps. Do a search.

I had a PWM on the 12v Rule livewell pump that I was using. It didn't make a difference in proformance at all. Just made the nosie of the pump more anoying. And the Jabsco runs so quiet you can't here it and the proformance is great without it. I still have the PWM and I'm thinking about using it to run my fans.


edit: You could AC motor speed control like this one found here http://www.hobbytron.net/G-119P.html and if yourgood with electronics you can build a thermo sensor to adjust the speed instend of using the pot.

thanks for the advice Stepback. i can imagine the impeller backlash would make loud noises. i think i will test how the ehiem pump responds to a steady voltage drop from a cheapo rheostat, before i install anything in my pc of course. one thing i just thought about that would help me pick out a good rheostat (one that goes from stall to full power at the extremes of rotation & can handle the power dissipation):

does anyone know where i can find AC voltage vs current data for an ehiem 1200 pump? it doesn't have to be numeric, graphs would help me too. plots from a pump with similar performance would allow a good estimate too.

i was also wondering what people think is the quietest & sturdiest method to mount the inline pump. i'm looking for suggestions on using dampening materials like foam, rubber grommets, Dynamat... i want to keep everything in my Antec tower too.

well, you might be able to use velcro to mount it. you could bolt it to the chassis and use foam between the pump and chassis to isolate vibrations.