New Block
 

im going to be makeing a block {CPU) here tommorow... need some advice... on size. any tips ?
base thickness, channel depth & thickness... i will be running half inch tubeing, either a 500 or 700 GPH pump. i am useing a heater core... even if anyone has a design they would like to see made...
block will be cut on an NC mill. i have a friend who will cut them for me. if someone gives me a design i will also send them one at the cost of shipping and copper...
for you guys who know about nc mills he said the one they have can handle 6 ft by 6 ft by 2 ft stock (if that means anything...

Ooooh pick me, pick me!

I'll post a pic in a few minutes!

Hey there, must be nice to have friends in cutting places! Any how, I'd suggest, if you have access to a CNC miller, do a spiral-like design or something like the maze, but instead, have 3 taps, one large inlet in the middle and to smaller ones on the outside. Or you could simply mick the maze 3 design, which is pretty nice... Just look around on the forums and check out others designs and get to brain storming!

Hey, how's about checking out the post on "ultimate block" theory, there are some GREAT design ideas there too! Like the one about half way down the page, it mimics a heater core design, except that the inlet and outlet are on opposing sides. GOod luck on whatever you design!

Here's the pic

yeah he is the foreman. its a tool and die shop i believe. ive been looking around for about three months now just cant decide on a block. maze is nice tho... ill be heading up that way in less than 12 hours.... it a 3 hour drive from me... so in leaving at 5 AM...

my main thing is channel depth,width, and base thickness...

I'm glad to see someone is reading my babbling!

Ok, here's my design.

The first one is to be capped with a clear acrylic piece. It is a single channel straight through, with rows of square pyramids over the area of the core (actually they're offset, so that the water doesn't flow straight through between the rows).

An alternative would be to make a second top, where a center inlet would exit either side, but I'd like to see the channels shallower.

The second design is a 3/8 or 1/2 barb that fits inside a radial pattern of fins. The water exits the block through a 2 inch tube, which is attached to the 2 in barb that's mounted on the block. Of course the small tube is inside the big tube, and the flow is seperated through a special res.

I've got more details, but if either one of those catch your attention, let me know.

... and here's the pic...

but how would you get that to work ... with the 2 in fitting,, what would the small tube mount to ??

You want to try something different and controversial (I think BigBen2K hates this one, hehe), try this:

Here is the top view of the bottom block:

That's the beauty of it: the center barb needs to let the water out, so it can't be screwed in all the way down: it's held in place by the fins. As for the large barb, well, I don't have one handy, I haven't even found one, but any way it can be mounted will do, even if it involves soldering a short 2" pipe, and using clamps, whatever will hold the 2" tube.

as has been mentioned upstairs, channel depth and thickness is your key, enter the relm of VDFC. it's all about control. :)

I'd need 5mm baseplate thickness. Anything more wouldn't work too well, and anything less, I just wouldn't trust not to bend or warp. The fin design is irrelevant actually...:D

thanx for the info guys
ill check back in the morning before i leave

Ok... here's the sizing for the mounting holes. I'm looking for an AMD mount...:D

Hey, whatever you can do with design#2 would be great. If it needs a little extra handy work, I don't care or mind!

Check your PMs