Orientation of Maze 2 upgrade on Socket
 

How's everyone mounting their Maze 2 upgrade blocks on the socket?? It looks like it's more directly above the die, if you place it so the output barb is below the input (with the computer standing up). However, on the DangerDen site, they have it oriented so that the output barb is above the input. (Closer to the PSU) the pictures on the site do not appear to be the upgrade version though.

I hope someone can weed through the confusing description above, and give me an answer, thanks.

According to Danger Den, it's the same both ways.

The Maze 2 "upgrade" has a wall exactly down the center of the block. The idea is that the wall provides added surface area right in the center of the core. So in one orientation or the other the only difference would be that one side of core would be exposed to a colder coolant, but overall it would cool the same, and realistically there will be no differance in temperatures of each side.

One consideration I took was that my socket is a little offset, so I mounted the side with the inlet barb most over the center. This wasn't really a determining factor, it was just the way the hoses routed the best and I figured it couldn't hurt.

I figured on doing the same, however, when I mount the inlet direcltly over the die, the outlet is above it, which is opposite of how it's shown on the dangerden site.

The reason I'm so concerned, is that I just recently finished this project, and the cooling performance has been horrible. I'm talking idleing at 40c, with a Dangerden 2 (.5 fittings), an eheim 1250, and a hayden 677 5.5x11 stacked plate radiator.

there were only a few things I could think of as being the problem, one was being the orientation of the waterblock, and the other was being that I may have added too much Anti-freeze & Water Wetter to the coolant.

GuyBFF, I also read in another post that you had problems mounting your waterblock with the thick pvc tubing, you said it pulled the block away from the die, that could be a problem for me as well, considering I'm using that exact type of tube, I'm thinking of going to the local hardware store and replacing the DangerDen mounting setup with a few bolts, they would definately not budge. However, would it put too much pressure on the die??

If you went with solid nuts, the same problem could happen with just a little over-tightening, or the motherboard flexing. When I put my hoses on you could see a small, but noticable movement of the waterblock springs, I'm not sure what's the best way to mount it... just as long as it's flat. I did however have much, much, much higher temps. Likely your waterblock is flat as mine just skyrocketed with only an edge contacting!!!

What processor and speed are you running? I ask because I have a Maze2, Eheim 1250 (in-line), and DDCC, and I'm idling at 44C w/ 49C at load (based on die-mounted thermistor; temps are 41 & 44 per MBM) on a 1.33g Tbird clocked at 1.55, 2.0 core, 24C case temp. 3/8" throughout.

I keep seeing folks with essentially the same setup getting much lower temps and I cannot figure out why.

I was running a t-bird 1.2 at 1.4 (v2.05) with a MC426 HSF, and maxing out at 41c, I've had to set it back to stock speed now however, because of the poor cooling I'm getting.

Back to my original question though, how are people orientating their offset inlet Maze 2's??

FWIW, I got the same response from DD: it doesn't matter which way you orient it. FWIW2, mine's oriented with the outlet tube facing the short side of the socket.

Short side of the socket??? You mean further from the Powersupply, below the inlet?

Anyone else?

By short side I mean the side I mean the lug side with less plastic. On my Epox 8K7A it's facing toward the bottom of the case.

With ambient @~24°C i have around 39°C idle temps and about 50°C full charge, with a DD maze2 (1st gen), a 1GHz AXIA @1.5GHz and arctic silver.
During my first try i had more than 50°C idle, i removed the block, swept excess thermal paste, and only used a flat edged tool to sweep the remains. Once i had a thin enough layer i put the block back.
Result, a drop of more than 10°C...

No offense, but isn't that still pretty $hitty? I'm not knocking your watercooling skills, because I'm still getting the same numbers, I just thought people would be getting better temps with these setups, I mean with my old swiftech MC462a I was getting max temps of 40c. I thought watercooling was such an evolution over aircooling??

You may also want to invest in a CompuNurse or the like. I found that readings from the motherboard thermister are between 5-10 degrees over when watercooled. By not having the heatsink fan circulating the air, the motherboard thermister gets hotter than in a heat sink fan application, and normally the BIOS is adjusted to compensate. My DigiDoc 5 shows constantly 6 or more degrees lower with the thermister against the core!

I agree that with weak airflow mbm readings for water cooling can be as much as 20 degrees higher than actual temps. OTOH, in my case the die-side-mounted thermistor reads 4-5C *higher* than MBM.

It depends heavily on your mobo thermistor. Abit mobos readings are very low, maybe 10°C under the real thing. Asus readings are higher and i think, more accurate.
I have an Asus thats why i read 39°C idle.
To compare, a friend of mine (with the same setup) mounted a hedgehog+Delta black label fan (currently top-notch air cooling) and he gets between 50°C and 60°C at best. I think more than 10°C difference is already a good thing - and i have no sceaming Delta near my ears.
Moreover i can now put Peltiers or a Bong cooler with no problem... You cannot do it with air cooling :p