Working on my PC-50...
 

Trying to iron out the last of the details this weekend. I may have to set it up with a POS CPU (Duron 750) but I think I will do it anyway just to get finished. I keep hoping to find an 1800+ TBred available but no luck as of yet. Anyway you guys don't care about that; you want the update.

First of all, I decided to skip the R1000 Tygon I have (3/8" ID) and go with 1/2" ID thickwall silicone (my old standby). For a pump, I am using a Laguna Statuary Pump model3. This is actually a submersible pump that required a little Goop to run inline. It is rated for ~ 360 GPH and 19W, and according to the P-Q curve is comparable to an Eheim 1250 but only the size of an Eheim 1048. It was also all I could find locally.

For radiator, I am using a Black Ice Extreme. I made a shroud for it today to raise the fan another 1" from the rad:

http://phaestus.procooling.com/bixshroud.jpg

For blocks I am using an Innovatek rev3 CPU block and an Innovatek GPU block modified to accept 1/2" barbs:

http://phaestus.procooling.com/innovateks.jpg

And for filling I am still deciding between a 3 valve system and just a simple T. If I go with valves they will be little copper ball valves but the T is looking more and more attractive as I get ready to plumb this case for its ease. Anyone have any comments on the merit of either?

nice shroud there, what is it made out of? Also, what is that fan on there, the colour tells me it is designed for quiet operation (all the blue/clear fans I've seen are really quiet)


For the filling system I'd keep with the simple T, it would take up less space, which is of course very important to you in your little PC-50

Update
 

Silly me; I forgot to make sure there was enough clearance for the rad + shroud + fan under the hdd cage. There is only about 1.5" clearance so I was concerned that the 120mm would not get proper performance. I just finished making rev 2.0:

http://phaestus.procooling.com/bixshroud2.jpg

Now the shroud is 0.5" tall and there should be proper clearance.

re how the shroud was made:

Just took a piece of sheet metal I had lying around and cut a long strip with tin snips. Then folded it to a square with one corner having a piece that overlapped and super glued it in place at the overlap. Took about 10 minutes or so.

The fan is an adjustable speed Enermax. At full speed it is around 85CFM I think.

The filling valves would all be at the back rear of the case on the outside. I think you are right though I probably will just go with the T for simplicity.

How did you attach the shroud to the rad and the fan? Also, I see screws in each corner of the fan.....where do they attach to?

As of now they just bolt right through and hold the shroud in place. I still need some thin weatherstripping to seal the duct and dampen the vibrations.

did you see the water dividers that blade runner made?
(esentially an acrylic block with a big hole at one end and smaller holes at the opposing end that meet the first one in the center of block at an angle slightly less than 180º)

I'll have to check that out. Might make a good filling solution for sure.

I read your thread hurried skipping parts; to make a filling-bleeding device you should change blade runner design (that design was to divide water to water blocks in parallel).
you could make a Y by making channels in two acrylic pieces and then gluing them together to form tubes inside a block.

Are you mounting the rad on the bottom front?
If so, I cant wait until you finish so I can use it as a template for myself. I'm in need of a new case I can use semi-easily with a BIX.

Oh, ok, your mounting it on the Front Bottom then? How are you doing the casters?

You have already answered my question, in the chat.