My latest creation: "The Lemon Block"
 

Well here it is. When the top is made it will have a 1/2"ID middle inlet and 2 1/4"ID or 3/16"ID outlets on the ends of the outer channel.

Probably will not have time to finish it for a while. I had a few hours to do what I done already. So here it is:

[edit]New pics comming soon. Had to switch webservers and urls.[/edit]
Outer channels is 1/4" wide .3125" deep. Inner channels are .125" wide and .25" deep. Pins are .25" squared. The block material is .5" thick, 2" wide, 3" long. That leaves .1875" of base for the outer channel and .25" base on the inner part.

Can't wait to see it finished jaydee. Nice work:D

Nice job man, how long did it took ?

I hope you don't plan on selling that thing. Can you imagine, "I ordered a LEMON from JD." LOL

or

"What kinda block do you have?"

"I got a LEMON."

Maybe it's time to stop working on the blocks and start working on the marketing. :rolleyes: For whatever reason this reminded me of the movie "Back to School" when Rodney Dangerfield tells his son to "remember, you're a Melon".

ps, neat looking block.

names
 

Nice block !!!

As for the name, I've had two cats named HAHA and FI. So, what's wrong with lemon?

Nice work dude! I wish I have the mill...

Nice work! Are you making the top out of aluminium and soldering/bolting it, or out of something clear like Lexan? I know Lexan tops seem to have a reputation for cracking, but it'd be such a shame to hide all that lovely milling work away :)

Good luck testing it - I hope it performs as good as it looks!

Re: names
 

In America, lemon is used to describe an item that fails to function as advertised. For example, if you buy a car that refuses to run properly despite repeated trips to the mechanic, you can demand a replacement under what is literally known in most states as the "Lemon Law".

that looks good JD. 1/8 th endmill I assume?
maybe 1/4

Still chewing on that aluminum too huh?

Man I cant wait until my new motor mount is done. 1 hp @ 30,000 RPM`s for a spindel motor!

It took 2 1/2 hours to mill with standard 2 flute HSS end mills. The outer channel was done with a 1/4" endmill and the inners with a 1/8".

Nope, definatly not going to be selling them simply because it takes way to long to mill. :D I would have to charge $100 each to make any money. Also I pretty much dropped the idea of selling anyway.

Good news is it will not take much longer to do in copper. probably 3hrs and I may do a Copper version in the future when I can afford the $30-$40 worth of tooling.... I think a Copper version would do very well. Probably take advantage of the pins better than AL.

The top? I am making here inb the next few hours actually. The first one willbe 1/4" plexy (being I got a bunch free today at work :) ) main reason i want to use a clear top is because I am going to run clear water through the system then drop some dye in and see how the water is going through the block. It will be sealed by clear silicone and 4 screwes. I decided a long time ago to make the tops easily removable and will always try to do so. Not to mention soldering is not really an option in my Apt. :D

I will try try to have some pics up tonight or tomorrow with the top on.

Couple pics with top attached:

http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/005.JPG
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/006.JPG
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/007.JPG

Thats all I had time to do tonight. Hopefully I can get the barb holes drilled and tapped and get it sealed up in the next week.

Re: Re: names
 

UhOh...didn't know that...
Man learn till his death...Women even longer...:D

Apology ang thx, myv65!

no O-rings?

He said he was going to use silicone to seal it up. I think an o-ring would be better for long term maybe, but if hes just testing its a quick and effective seal.

Actually silicone is better than an O ring. It will never leak unless I pull it apart. This is clear gasket making silicone used for automotive purposes. I use it in all my blocks. I also would rather use silicone because the O ring can cause cracking because of the pressure on the ring and not the whole surface of the block like silicone. Remember silicone is designed to be a sealant, not to mention it is an exellent adhesive. After it sets up I can remove the screwes and it will hold forever under pressure. Good stuff.

http://www.chrion.netfirms.com/vatte...ff/blocket.jpg
I used "build-silicon". worked damn good.

As far as the name, it could come close to be hand grenade or something, looks very similar, the the areas coming out. :D

how about 'Da Bomb'

Grenade would be much better than Lemon..... Interesting to see my dual outlet and central inlet idea is taking over the world ;)

Well no doubt silicone is an excellent sealent. Usually what ever I use it on breaks when I try to take it apart. I just havn't seen them used on waterblocks before so I assumed it was a temp thing. ;)

Not a temp thing. The silicone is good to 450F. If the block gets that hot otherthings more important are already wasted. :D

I always like the big inlet duel outlet. I am now thinhking that maybe 3/8ID outlets maybe better. I am not to sure how to do the math but they say I would need bigger than 1/4"ID toequel the 1/2" id inlet. Why I still can't get through my head but I am not going to disagree couse I don't know! :D

Four 1/4" ID equals one 1/2" ID in area but then there is also more surface area for friction in the four 1/4" so to be even closer go with 4 9/32" ID to equal one 1/2" ID to offset friction.
Likewise two 3/8" ID is equal to one 1/2" ID in area so go with two 13/32" ID to offset friction.
Also if you use two 3/8" ID drilled out to 13/32" then use 1/2" ID tubing over these barbs otherwise boring out the barbs is pointless.:)

Sounds good! I will will give it a shot.:)

Unfortunatly I could not get a hold of any 1/2" barbs today. So for now I am just going to use 1/4"ID 3/8"OD barbs I usually use. And being that is what my system is setup for i will give it a shot. Then will change over to all 1/2"ID in and out barbs when I can get some.... I have to setup a new test bed sytem as I build a comp for my daughter out of the old one. Will try to get it setup by the weekend as I will be gone this weekend.... Hopefully have some rough results late this week or early next week. NOTE: This block IS sealed!!! clear silicone rulz! :D
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/008.JPG
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/009.JPG
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB5/010.JPG

Hose size comparisons
 

The stuff below is probably child's play to all of you, but I find that it's an easy way to make these conversions in my head.

The easiest way I can think of to make equivalencies between hose sizes is to remember the formula for the area of a circle:
Pi*r^2
and since you're comparing the cross-sectional area of two round hoses, you have:
x(Pi*r^2)=Pi*R^2

Cancelling the Pi's leaves:
x*r^2=R^2

Ex:
x*(1/4)^2=(1/2)^2
x*(1/16)=(1/4)
x=4 ;)

So...since 2*(3/8)^2 is roughly 0.28, the 2x 3/8" outlets will actually flow better than the 1/2" inlet, and no worries. :D

Re: Hose size comparisons
 

That is probably what I am going to end up with. 2-3/8"id's and 1-1/2"id. I am courious though, would it be a bad thing to use ALL 1/2"id barbs? Or would that make the side with less resistance get all the flow. I wanted to have slightly less output flowe than input to make sure water will flow somewhat evenly out both the outlets. I have lots of experimenting to do. Now to find the time to do it.....