my wc setup
 

okay.. i just got a pump today..
Brand : Alife
Model : AE-01-1200
Manufacturer : Hai Feng
it says 1200L/HR (1200.00 liters is 312.00 US gallons.)
50Hz WATT/10W

i tried looking up the net, can't find *THIS* model..probably an old discontinued one..they only had the 2100L model online..but no spec sheet...crappy webpage.. www.haifeng.com
its pretty small..smaller than the Eheim 1250..and i think i have doubts whether its a 1200ltr/HR or not..

any easy way to measure it? the flowrate per hour

and what is POWER HEAD?
eheim is a magnetic driven pump or something like that right? so whats power head?

anyway, i just wanna do some research before i patch everything together..

now i have a maze3 copper top, black ice pro evo, and this pump... gonna get some PVC air hose later.. what type of hose/tubing to get? (sorry no tygon around here)..

Powerhead is simply description given to any pump that is designed to run in a fish tank, it uses the same operating principles as an eheim.

I have similar size pumps, yours should push water up a vertical hose around 1m.

It should work ok with the components you have, normal pvc (cheap) hose will be sufficent if you don't have any tight bends, try to aviod plastic fittings since they tend to have small ID and can restrict flow.

Howdo Spinky?!! :) ...

A powerhead is a (usualy) small pump that sits on top of a 1~1 1/4inch PVC tube in a fishtank to pump water from beneath the gravel, they are (usualy) submersed and (usualy :) )have to be modded to run inline...

Try doing a fill a bucket test, see how many gallons/litres it will pump(without tube on the outlet side, tube will slowdown the flowrate) in one min' then multiply by sixty to give the Gallons/Litres~ PerHour measure...

Then get a long (6" plus) tube and connect to the outlet and hold upright/verticle and see/measure how far up the tube the pump lifts the water, this will be your maximum 'Head'...

thanks for the replies MadDogMe and Volenti. i'll go get my air hose later and some metal clamps... and go check out some brass fittings..

the pump comes with a plastic fitting.. or extender of some sort.. i believe thats the output.. which is plastic.. i think it'll be better if i used brass fittings?

and to tighten hoses on the fittings.. i was thinking about metal clamps + zip ties.. anything else i missing?

ah and something just came across my mine.. bacteria growth in the system.. i believe once water is exposed to air it has a chance of bacteria growth? and tap water definately has bacteria.. i'm going to use distilled water from the bottle..but i believe handling it here and there will probably contaminate it.. so how do i go about and make sure no bacteria growth? or those funny sh!t growing in my system? additive? the aquarium/fish shop sells those water treatment stuff..but i dont know which is suitable..any idea? a certain chemical or ingredient i should look for?

and does water wetter really improves performance? or its just bullcrap?

bump.. nobody wanna help me out? :(

Water wetter does help alleviate the surface tension of water, thereby increasing its cooling efficiency. It also helps with the bugs in the water. Its best feature is its ability to let you know if you have a leak, as it smells like crap!:eek:

Bob

Yeah!, Don't use WW with Silicone tubing cause it 'breathes' and lets the 'stinky' out :p ...

Saying that, I don't think 'Purple Ice' smells like 'WaterWetter'. WaterWetter is actualy a brand name, not a generic one...

well..updates.. i got WaterWetter and some Algae DESTROYER (algae ph33r!) ..

so im gonna put everything in..
the 1200L/H pump i had..the small one.. had a SHITTY head...
i got another 3300L/H pump.. its NOISY (im gonna make a foam enclosure or something).. and it has like 2.2M head.. woot..tested..

just sealed the pump and put in all the 1/2" barbs..had to saw some plastic parts off the pump.. all thanks to my friend who helped me out..

now i'm testing for leaks on the pump.. gonna leave it overnight..woot..

PS: does the Algae Destroyer really works > ?

I hav'nt got a clue about the A~D. what make and model is the pump?...

http://blur.vp.com.my/gfx/wc/pump6.JPG

http://blur.vp.com.my/gfx/wc/pump5.JPG
volts/power consumption/max head/max flow/hose in-out

is this a powerful pump? cause its noisy..and after running 24/7 for testing purposes..its HOT.. i think it needs cooling...

http://blur.vp.com.my/gfx/wc/pump3.JPG
the modified fittings...

http://blur.vp.com.my/gfx/wc/pump1.JPG

http://blur.vp.com.my/gfx/wc/pump4.JPG
the fittings all working fine? no leaks?

Sorry for not replying earlier. I've been busy trying to keep my job, care for my family and fit some brain-dead relaxation in there.

Now, I didn't see many unanswered questions in there except for your Algae Destroyer question. If it was me, I'd put in a half-teaspoon of bleach in your water to flush and clean it out (if you already had things growing in there). Then, I'd use distilled water (not De-ionized water, which is a waste of money for us) mixed with WW. If you are really concerned, put a half-teaspoon of bleach in your system and live with the fact that it might corrode your metal surfaces a small bit (plus it quickly evaporates out of the water if you have an open system).

People use all kinds of biocides: silver-based biocides, soap, chlorine bleach, anti-freeze, alcohols (I have seen people have use isopropyl, methanol, and ethanol), fish antibiotics and humidifier cleaners. I just recommend using distilled water and water wetter (see my article) with occasional flush and refill cycles (about every 6-months to a year). Most of the exotic biocides can either degrade performance and/or break down and coat your heat exchanging surfaces. If you start out clean and have a mildly basic (not neutral or acidic) coolant, you should be fine. Water wetter changes the pH to make things more inhospitable to biological growths.

I use lab grade isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) in my system with one tbsp per quart/L of fluid. It'll kill the bugs, and the worst it'll do is evaporate if your system has any opening to air (lower evaporation point than water). It won't gum up your works or hurt any components you're going to use. I'm anal with my additives and use the lab stuff, but regular stuff from WalF*rt should work just as well for you. Heed the warning on the water wetter: it will discolor your tubing as well, and leave it very unpretty (it'll make your system look very ghetto).

Ummmm, one question.
Will Wetter water turn tygon tubing that ugly white color or does it just do that to regular tubing?
I have a bottle of WW but havent used it yet ( as I am waiting on my water blocks to arrive).

Aardil

No, the white deposit is calcium from tap water. Use distilled water to avoid it, like it says in the article...

I may have to make a major change in my recommendation. After reading about BillA's experiences with WW (water wetter), it may be that WW is a bad bet after all. BillA was complaining about a buildup of slime when he used WW that came off in "ropy tendrils". Mmmmm... yum.

Has anyone had a problem with it? I hope that BillA has a biological growth or some sort of wierd breakdown of tubing material (hydrolized rubber anyone?). However, I wanted to post a warning here just in case.

Isopropyl alcohol is a fine biocide (not as good as bleach, btw) but it does nothing for galvanic corrosion. Just remember that any dissimilar metals will cause corrosion in your system unless there is a protective additive.

From what I've read that only happens if you overdose it, but then again, BillA's usualy pretty exact (to make an understatemnet :p )...

pump looks powerful to me :) . I'd maybe try and use 3/4 tubing all through with a reducer to the inlet on the CPU block and solder new ones to the rad...

What Bill didn't mention is how often he replaces the coolant. Ylur article does state that it has to be replaced (right?) which is what brought on the discussion about a pH meter...