Wanting a White Water Block, Stew?
I have emailed Stew but no answer. It doesnt make sense that
D-Tek doesnt carry them. I need water cooling, I dont want a TC-4 b/c its not all copper. I need the lowest temp possible with water cooling. Hopefully luck will shine on me this week. Please.!! Chad in Phoenix, AZ sproket@prowestfilms.com |
Copper top shouldn't be the reason you want to look at other blocks... http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6014
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I just think like this:
Why take the risk of a Type II alum. top block when you can just get a solid copper like the White Water. I dont care about looks. I just want the lowest temps offered by water. I think the White Water will give me what I want. i just Cant purchase it right now. I will wait a couple of weeks and see if the Cather block becomes available. |
Have you tried at www.jpiperformance.com ? This is the only site in the US that I know of so far to carry the White Water.
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Yes I tried JPI and they are sold out. JPI only sells them with there kits. I dont want a kit. Just the block.
Actually Stew can mail one to me but Im trying to get a hold of him. Thanks for your help though. |
I read over at OCAU that the White Water blocks made by Stew are no more... he's only got a few left, and those are all being sold locally. However, I did hear mention of a US distributor that should be producing the blocks themselves soon enough, so you will likely be able to snag one then.
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A lightning strike has taken out the main phone line in our street, so I've only had intermittent net access.
Since you explicitly want an all-copper block I'll make sure to reserve one last one for you. I'll get to your email later today. |
My ideas on the top of the block
1) Acrylic, Lexan, Copper(and all alloys of copper, such as brass), and Andoized aluminum(unless the whole block of aluminum) are acceptable for use as the top of a waterblock. They will not corrode easily unless other metals are in the loop(keep in mind the anodized aluminum will not cause corrosion). 2) All tops should be attached with bolts and a liquid sealent or o-ring with ridge. It can also be soldered on. |
Ah man Cathar, I emailed you like two weeks ago and you told me you were not selling them anymore? You just do not want me to have one? I promise I will give it a nice home.
Brian |
I hope that Cathar was paid a fairly good price for his design by who ever it is getting ready to make them. Who ever it is has gotten a proven strong performer that will give them a step up on other commercial block makers.
Wouldn't happen to be JPI would it? |
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A rough estimate or 2-3 weeks was given, for blocks to begin appearing fro sale in the US. |
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The same design without changes?
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Anyone heard anything about the WW being released in the US yet?
And does anyone know who in the US will be making & marketing it? |
It still seems to be hush hush for right now.
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:(
Home of the LRWW. Obviously, no details yet. Quote:
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peace. unloaded |
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A clear top would work well, and not affect performance noticeably. It would also be a nice touch on this top notch block. (LOL, try to say that ten times fast!)
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Maybe a copper bottom, brass middle and aluminum top? We could run a couple wires from it and do away with CMOS battery! 8P~
Nobody flame me, I'm just having some fun. I gotta say though, I am getting more and more excited about seeing them released. I'm thinking there will be two flavors offered, plexi or aluminum. That seems to be the trend right now. Also it wouldn't suprise me to see copper tops offered down the road a bit, if there is a demand for them. I'm actually looking forward to these more than I was the last few video card and cpu releases. Is it just me or do you guys feel the same? peace. unloaded |
People whine about the cost and weight of the copper, but it is pretty easy to get around the weight (on the top anyway). The price though isn't, but I am sure people would pay for it. I know I would if I were to buy a block anyway. :D
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Weight - less than 2 oz. Cost of Copper - $1.50 :D http://home.nyc.rr.com/graystar/WB3.jpg |
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