Best way to make a reservoir
 

I want a resevoir to put my Eheim 1060 in. it has to be as small as possible so I'll have make it myself.

What are the best
- materials
- ways to seal the fittings ...
- ...

tnx

Are you dead set on using the Eheim submersible? I would suggest using it inline and then getting a small R/C car tank as a reservoir. You can see that res in action in some of Joe's systems and also Una's The Rock article here on this site.

I totally agree with pHaestus, go with the Dubro RC fuel tank as an inline reservoir. You can find it at http://www.towerhobbies.com for about $3 + cheap shipping, or find a Hobby store locally carring something like it. It takes about 10 minutes to build, and works like a dream. Seriously I wish I had discovered this back when I first took the plunge because this system is amazingly easy to fill/bleed/perform maintanence.

Or you can just make one out of PVC Pipe and fittings. Mine probably cost me about $5.00 to $8.00 bucks in total.
http://jreyes.net/wc_comp/res.jpg


The fitting sticking up has a 1/2 plug that you can unscrew and fill up.

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: terabyte ]

If I use this fuel tank what is the best method to get the fittings on and make sure they won't leak.


PS: newbie@work

JB Weld

in english please :)
or in dutch ....

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: eX&TriC ]

You mean JB Weld? Its basically super strong glue. We use it in my ceramics class. Stick a little between 2 surfaces and you'll need a sledgehammer to seperate them. Costs a couple bucks at a hardware store.

i find the electrical junction boxes make a better res. like the one i just made for my new rig. it comes with a hole on each side and mounts for the screws already. a little pvc glue, threaded reducers, and fittings make for a very sturdy res. did you see the one i made terrabyte? i replaced the stock cover(grey pvc) with a lexan face so its see through too.

The problems with the J Boxes is you need a HUGE one to fit any decent power pump inside (ie Danner, or Eheim 1250), you have to dismantle it every time you need to fill your system, and all the watts of your pump will be transfered to the water adding heat to the system. With a RC Fuel tank all you need to do to fill the system is remove one rubber plug, most of the heat from your pump is transfered to the air (not all though), and IMO it just looks better than a big old J Box. I am very pleased with my RC Fill tank.

I would use plumbers goop for the R/C fuel tanks.

the R/C tanks flex too much for JB weld. JB weld is an epoxy, and has very low tollerance for sheer forces, and will crak or break off the surface easily on flexible plastic.

Goop is godlike on these tanks and fittings. Made 6 of these rese's now like that and not one has had a drop of coolan leak from them.

[shamefull Metalica spoof plug]mmmm...plumbers goop good
grrr...epoxy bad
fire bad BAD BAD
[/shamefull Metalica spoof plug]

I think I'm on my 3rd or 4th tube of Goop this year....

could you specify plumbers goob ...
If i go to a plumber or DIY store and translate and ask it i think they will laugh...

does anyone have a link or something so I
can explain it a bit more in the store.

tnx

Seriously it is called Plumber's Goop:

http://www.voidyourwarranty.net/imag...estus/goop.jpg

Hmmm, has anybody tried making an inline res out of a 20-oz pop bottle? It'd be extremely ghetto, but funny at the same time. It'd probably be better to spend the $3 and buy an RC tank, huh?

dd you misunderstand. i think enclosing the pump is a terrible way to go. when i said junction boxes i meant like this:

http://people.mw.mediaone.net/jonab/wtxres.jpg

as you can see it has a see through front, and is pretty damn spiffy. also it is a bit tougher than those rc tanks, and i'll wager a bit more fun to put together. though i was considering them...the asshole i tried to buy it from offline(the rc tank) wouldn't take a cc for less than 20 bucks(i was at 14 at the time) so i told him to shove the tank up his ass(no REALLY) and left the store. then i went to hd and bought parts for this...i think i am happy enough.

moral? spend your voting dollars where they count.

Indeed I did misunderstand. That is very cool looking, I like I like. It looks like you just need to cut a piece of plexi to the top size of the J Box, drill 4 screw holes and take some plumbers goop to it. The Dubros are tough little pieces of plastic, as they are designed to take the impact of an RC aircraft crashing at full speed without rupturing. I think mine had about 1/8 or 3/16 walls.

I am almost done with my res (gotta drll holes in the bottom for fittings and cut the cap off some to make a proper lid:

http://www.voidyourwarranty.net/images/pHaestus/res.jpg

Everything is held together with Plumbers Goop on mine (seems quite secure too).

thats lookin nice and clean pHaestus :cool:

Cool!

http://techguy.virtualave.net/project/Dc0041m.JPG
http://techguy.virtualave.net/project/Dc0047m.JPG
the excessive JB welt and threads on the barbs hold very securly to hte RC tank.
The ist time when I did dot have a threaded barb, pulling on the JB did cause a problem, but now I can tug like mad and it's solid and leak proof. The holes I cut are on the sams too, the thickest part of the tank

[ 11-12-2001: Message edited by: Techguy ]

hey techguy, what kind of temps are you getting with that system? is that an eheim 1048 or 1250? reason i am asking is because i am trying to help this guy over at another forum. he has maze2, heater core, 1250, and his temps are off the wall. he obviously did something wrong because he said he was idling at 50!

just want to show him, with that system, he can get great temps, there is just something wrong.

deez

Hey deez, about this guy. Are the screws on his MAZE 2 tightened completly? I found this made a huge difference with my MAZE 2 temp wise. You have to tighten untill the springs are completly compressed. Also what fan is he using on his heatercore, and what MoBo? Unaclocker had insanly high temps on his MSI board with a 1GHz AVIA overvolted to like 2.0. I think he was in the 50s too. Some of these boards are just grossly inaccurate with the onboard temp sensor. Still he should be in the mid to high 30s with that rig.