REV. 3.0 Done. (pics)
 

Laser cut and engraved acrylic.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/015.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/002.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/003.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/004.jpg
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Top is 3/8" thick and I opted to use 1/2" ID stubby brass pipes instead of barbs. Mainly because I cannot get the barbs anywhere localy. They are still 1/4" NPT threaded.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/005.jpg
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This is the bottom peice which acts as the water diverter. it is 1/4" thick.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/007.jpg
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Middle peice which is 1/8" and has the nozzel cut into it. not sure how well it will work yet.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/008.jpg
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Base pics. 1/8" C110 Copper flat bar. Channels are .010" at the bottom of the channel and .030" at the top. About .0625" deep. Base took 3minutes!! 2 passes at 1.5 minutes each. Done on the Xenetech XOT 1625 Rotory Engraver I run at work.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/010.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/013.jpg
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That is a 1/8" endmill there for scale comparision. Gives you an idea how small these pins really are.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/014.jpg

Bad news is I will not be able to hook it up for a while. This was made to put a challenge to Cathars White Water and I think it will come close with a good pump and tweaking of the nozzel. :)

Looking GOOOOOOOOOD!

what made you go for a cross shaped nozzle? would you perhaps be better off with a multiple jet nozzle, firing into say 10 of the pits between the "pins" ?

just a thought, probably way off :)

Mutiple hole nozzel just doesn't work. i have tried it before with little success. the + nozzel here is to gain volocity more than anything else. Trying to direct a stream right at the center of the CPU core. The pins should help thin the boundry layer and help in thermal transfer. Theroretically. :D

really really nice job. when are you going to test this baby??

i think that we will see very interesting results

If you want to challenge white water you'll need a thinner BP; remember WW is less than 1 mm.

You can't make threads in a thinner base? No problem, use upside down cone head screws, tap in the acrylic and make a countersunk edge on the copper, just the size to have the head flush with the base.

PS: Those pics aren’t real jpg, just renamed bmp's. Please be kindy with us poor modem users and fix it. :(

Will test whenever I get a new mobo to test with. Just hooked up the nozzel and looks promising.


nicozeg: Not worried about the base thickness just yet. It is currantly 1.5875mm at the bottom of the channels.

Can't put any screws in the bottom of the base. They will hit the top of the socket. Havn't found any flat enough on the top. Doesn't matter anyway. if I want to go thinner I will just mill the area out first down to whatever and then engrave the pins in.

Yeah my bad. Forget to compress them. Should be fixed now. if they load slow it is because my host is messed up. :mad:

Are you sure your links are in right? All I get are red x's.

Host is down. :(

DISCLAIMER: Spam Post
 

Host is back up :) Nice block!!!!

I hope it works as good as it looks. When are you gonna put it to the test? Whenever you do it please post.

Should have it running tomorrow. Leak testing now. :)

just an idea for your next rev. instead of putting the piramids like that, you put them 45º from the direction of the water.

Nice work JD. Keep it up.

I wanted to do that but the machine has a half assed software setup and it is a real pain trying to make angles passes. It doesn't use DXF's from a CAD software. I can import a DXF but it then turns it into a logo and then you have to try and resize it. The software sucks.

just engrave it like you did this time, but on a larger piece of copper.
Then cut the block base out so that the pyramids are at 45 degree angles.

I can't to that. Vise only holds a 2" wide peice. I just need to make the drawing. It won't be that hard, but i just need the time to do it. Doing all this under the table when the boss doesn't come in. :D

Block is leaking. :( going top have to reseal it.

Taken apart and re-sealed. Doing ot right this time. Got 8 screws clamping it together. :D it is tight this time. Got REV. 2.0 running again now untill I can find time to drop REV. 3.0 on. going to let it set through the night though.

Hehehe, if that isn't enough clamping pressure nothing is. :D I also swapped out the 1/2" pipes on the sides for 2 1/4"ID barbs. Did that for 2 reasons. One because I didn't allow enough room to put the hoses on with clamps, and 2 because I only have a 170GPH pump. 1/2" ID outs were kinda overkill.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/016.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/017.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/018.jpg

How are you sealing it?

It looks so clear, I can't guess what sealant you use. :cool:

Clear RTV silicone. I only used the 4 screws that hold it together the first time as I didn't have the mounting holes drilled yet. That wasn't enough. This time should be good though. :)

But if its the tipical adhesive type it should seal and hold the block together without needing bolts. I don't understand why four was not enough

Just understand: you use the four aditional bolt to hold it together until it hardens, yes?

The outer AMD mounting holes yes. Those will come out. The inner ones will also come out but be replaced by screws that will fit without passing the bottom of the base. RTV Silicone is also a good adhesive. If it is applied right it is very hard to take apart. More so on metals though. I used to use tubes of it and NP1 caulk to seal up the gutters and stuff on the building I used to put up. I also like to use it with acrylic because it flatens out the width of the parts it is applied and prevents cracks as the pressure is spread out through the block and not just on the O ring. Nothing beats all metal and an O ring IMO though. Just don't have the cash to buy any more copper right now.