rotor block, howto, part1
 

draw design in drawing prg of choice. plot it...

glue the cut out design on your workpiece.

no need to explain this step, i'd say...

results, in my case they will never look as clean as others (hail to the master: #rotor). as long as they do the job.

to do the same drilling in the copper, it is best to make pilot markings with the tools shown in the pic.

This is very interesting. Looking forward to the rest of the series! :)

coming soon, last night i screwed up the whole top half so a little bit of delay.

Stupid question: What is it that you are building?

it shows the first and most important stages of making a #rotor design block.

that means that it can be done with the most basic tools. a drillpress to punchdrill some holes, and a dremel to make canals from hole to hole. and there u go, a high performance waterblock

I'd like to see the dremel part. I always manage to break things when I use a dremel.

aaight, followup

after treating all the workpieces with the respect they diserve, u might get something like this:

http://users.skynet.be/donsole/step5.JPG

threading the holes for the barbs and the hex bolts is an art of its own. don't screw yourself with cheap material in that department. u can save on the bench drill and on the drill bits but NOT on the thread cutters.


next u glue it all together. gluing copper on copper is best with some gooey glue. let it get very tacky, almost like rubber and then join the pieces and clamp. in my case i used plastic glue that ate away the plastic for optimal bond, so in that case get it together as fast as you can (don't let it get tacky or there won't be any more plastic ;-) )

a small leaktest can't be forgotten

http://users.skynet.be/donsole/step6.JPG


hooah, action (very good temps btw)

http://users.skynet.be/donsole/step7.JPG


and to make it all sortof complete, a pic of the design(idea)

http://users.skynet.be/donsole/idea.jpg

credit where credit is due: #rotor the uber inventor of this method, thx for helping out a n00b; puzzdre, together we conquered alot of obstacles; and volenti for bringing jet impringement to the masses; bigben2k, our thinktank;... and big thx to the staff of procooling for giving us a place to learn from one another.

Now that would NOT include the cracks, right?:p

You're welcome. Excellent work!

:drool:

Nice to see that that drillpress didn't end down in the basement!!!;)
Very nice job you did, I like that plexy top with implemented jets.
How was the tapping the plexy? I don't see the teflon tape on the barbs, did you use some liquid sealant or similar?
What are the dia of the jet holes, and center to center distance?
What are your temps (even better, how much diff from the first and second block you made)?

Duh, sorry for all the questions, but I was thinking of similar thing (just not layering the top, got some 8 mm thick plexy at home), gotta make two NB blocks too, so I'm very interested in behaviour of the plexy, especially in tapping.

And again, :drool: , for a very nice block made in apartement, with plain and accesible tools!

Great!

Cheers, m8!

I am indeed honored.

for those that always wonder why I am so, sometimes blatantly, giving away all my secrets....

this is why......

the satisfaction from knowing you helped someone, thousands of miles away, create something so beautiful, from nothing.... absolutely undeniably priceless. now, if only I can get this damn
nuclear fusion battery charger to work properly :D

@bigben,

i used the cheapest of the cheapest plexi knockoff; scratches most easily. also i found that working plexi, especially drilling is more of a bitch than drilling copper. when the drill brakes through the surface it is most difficult to make the drill not bite. this is why some holes have cracks.
when i was almost finished a couple of days ago; i did a 6.5mm hole, one pass through all the layers of plexi, with the copper already attached. when the drill bit through the surface the whole +/-400gram started spinning with the drill. the whole drill started going awol on me. have some cuts in my hand to testify to that. result, some blood, and the whole top was killed.
maybe real plexi or lexan wouldn't be so much of a problem

@puzzdre,

tapping plexi is a no-brainer; drilling however...
i used the cement type plastic glue for the barbs. this is some funky stuff, melts the plastic a little. thats why i'm not all that worried about the cracks.
actually the copper mirrored holes are 4mm dia, the jets are 2mm (per recomendation of volenti). the velocity of the water exiting is quite amazing.

imagine 9jets; 2mm dia -> 1mm radius => surface= 9 x 1² x 3.1415 = 28.27mm²

imagine 1 barb; 10mm dia -> 5mm radius => surface=5² x 3.1415 = 78.54mm²

so the water is being pushed through 1/3 of the normal barb section.

in the copper the holes are 4mm dia and 4.2mm center to center (this is not enough, drill press is not precise enough, 4.5 would've been better). so in the plexi c to c dist is the same.

first block= reference (the one we made together)
second block= -1°C
third block(this one)= -4°C (succes i'd say)
from 40°C load to 36°C @ 5V

one 6 to 8mm plexi layer should do for the barbs.
2 2mm plexi sheets for eventual jet design.

so i repeat myself, tapping is a cakewalk, hold your heart drilling though.

@#rotor
this is why i try to do my best to further spread the gospel. credit from further refining goes out to Volenti and Bigben2k though, they extrapolated Cathar's work to your method.

cheerz

very cool

but i was just wondering, what programs do you use to draw the printouts .... it will get me to step one :P

acad 2002 is my preferred cad prg. don't let that stop you from using another one.

autocad lets me draw in a 1/1 scale with 1/1 plotting. i have seen puzzdre do it with corel draw; don't know if that is practical though.

autocad isn't the simplest of programs although the drawings needed for WB design aren't all that complicated.

use a peice of wood under the perspex when drilling holes, it'll help prevent the drill bit from breaking through the last little bit and causing cracks.

You could also make a wooden jig to keep the plastic from biting on the drill bit and cutting your fingers.

The jig would simply give you more material to hold onto during the drilling process, and also keep your plexiglass stationary.

the problem with the jig would be that your plexi workpieces should already be dimensioned perfectly. in my case i sawed em to rough dimension. when it was all assembled, then i cut the rest away.

you can plan it all perfectly if one would have 0.001 precision. doing it with cheapo tools however, makes it that much more difficult. e.g. the plexi layers only go on one way, because my threaded holes are not perfectly symmetrical. that complicates matters enourmously.

i admit though that there must be ways to make it easier, but as most of the time, good clamping is the key element, but hard to do if your workpieces don't have perfectly parallel planes. working only with copper bars therefore makes it alot easier.

are the pieces of acrylic, acting as a template?

nope, they are sort of inblock reservoir and jet. a template would be a good idea to get some extra precision, but also adds some time. next time however i will try with a template for extra precision. looks are looks and performance is performance.