Time to ask the Experts (that means all of you)
 

I am going water for cooling, am I missing anything? Any specific recomendations?

Current:
- Evercase middle Tower ECE4252
http://www.evercase.com/indexfs.html
http://www.evercase.com/Catalog/ECE4262.pdf
--no add-on side fan or card retainer, but I do have the optional extra HD bay on the bottom.
- ASUS P4S333 MB
- 1 CD/DVD combo drive
- 1 10 Disc holder in 5¼ bay
- 2 HDs
- Front intake fan
- Rear exhaust fan
- P4 1.9 w/stock heatsink/fan
- 768MB Corsair XMS3000 (256mb x 3)
- 3Com NIC
- SB Audigy
- Creative TV Tuner/Recorder
- Visiontek Geforce 3 Ti500

Will be upgrading to:
New MB (prob Asus P4P800)
(this will eliminate the 3com NIC)
New Intel CPU (2.6Ghz or more)
Asus V9950 GeForce FX 5900

I have no holes in my case nor plan on it any time soon.


Here is what I am looking at for a starte kit....

* DD MAZE4 Block w/ 4 Hole Mounting Kit
* 1/2" Brass Fittings
* Black Ice Xtreme Radiator
* Hydor L30 Pump
* Pabst 120mm Fan w/ 4 Pin Plug
* Water Wetter 4oz Bottle
* Arctic Silver Thermal Compound 3
* 7 ft of 1/2" Tygon Tubing
* 1 5¼" Bay Reservoir

* GeForce 3 Water Block


Questions:

Does the tubing make a difference?

What about Vanex PEX piping in place of that? http://www.vanguardpipe.com/vanex.html

What is the absolute best way to order the hook up? Should I split the the CPU + VID block with a Y before and after evenly or jump from one to another?

Is the res even needed(read as 'can this become a closed system')?

Should I use metal clips and how many?

What the hell would a T be for when you can get a Y?

Did I miss anything abvious?


I am not looking for great looks nor do I overclock. Do you have any suggestions or warnings for me?

Thanks in advance

Excelsior
www.theddz.com

Welcome to ProCooling!!

Everything looks good.
I would wait until the Whitewater block from dtekcustoms.com comes out and I like Clearflex60 better than Tygon.


EDIT:
Dont use to much Waterwetter in there, some have had prob's.
You can also get Hyperlube Super Coolant (its green) from Checker Auto parts that does the same thing as Waterwetter.

T's can be easier to buy, and are also good if you want an extra (or you have no other) fill point you you system. The T would be at one of the higher points of the system (just inline in some tube), so you could fill you system "easily" water would only flow from A to B, rather than A to [B and C], and C would just be a place to put water, or additives in as required.

Some peopl you T's to split flow, the only reason I would is if I had a particularly difficult time buying Y's locally (I'm not big on odering plastic fittings... seems wierd to me - I'd probably just make a simple one out of a peice of acrylic before odering somethign like that.... shrug - I just can't imagine a little package with one Y fitting in it coming in the mail...)

By metal clips do you mean hose clamps? If so, if you don't feel safe with the way you put your tubing on you might wanna use clamps ;) (ie: if you used 1/2OD fittings and 1/2ID tubing, you probably want clamps - if you used 5/8 OD fittings, and 1/2 ID tube, you're prolly ok - but dont forget to test). My favourite clamps are the one peice metal ones that use a special "unclamp" tool. The standard screw tight ones are ok, and some people use various types of zip-ties.

Hi Excelsior! Welcome!


You ought to consider trading the BIX for a heatercore. I picked up fedco# 2-304 for $29.99, shipped, from www.leakycar.com , but you might do better with the Chevette core from Pep Boys which I read is available for ~$20.

You can make that a closed system without a problem. Just install a T fittings as the post above describes and don't use the res.

Your pump choice is a good one, it's small & compact yet still more powerfull than many others.

The advice to wait for the White Water block is also good. No other block does so well at all flows as does the White Water. It's well worth waiting for, and the wait won't be much longer. It should be out and for sale in another week.