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-   -   good for a laugh me thinks but thats all (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7041)

leejsmith 06-19-2003 06:18 AM

good for a laugh me thinks but thats all
 
this was found by someone at oc.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=3666

he has a brass base with copper tubes solderd onto the top.

from ebay.

These are better cooling blocks in my opinion because:

1) Much more water volume and thermal mass. 4 foot of seamless tube filled with circulating water as opposed to 2 inch blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from.

2) The connections can be completely outside the case. This means much less chance of leakage inside your case. I prefer putting the whole tank/pump/condenser assembly outside the case anyway, as this means that your actually taking the heat outside your case environment.

3) They are made in America by an American original... me.

4) They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better.


:D

msv 06-19-2003 07:46 AM

Makes one wonder what kind of WB:s he´s grown up with...
"...blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from."
regards
Mikael S.

Cathar 06-19-2003 08:24 AM

*chortle*

bigben2k 06-19-2003 09:05 AM

The comment about the block being better because of the "greater water volume and thermal mass" says it all: this person knows little about what makes a good waterblock. You gotta love the "They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better". Where's the testing?

Looping the water round-and-round makes the block act as a secondary radiator, which is interesting: he ought to have taken advantage of that, by adding fins and a fan. Kinda like a water version of a Zalman block.

There is a reduction in the possibility of leaks, because he doesn't cut the tube at all: it remains perfectly integral. The problem is attaching a cold plate to it, in such a way that it doesn't reduce the thermal resistance, because lead/tin are relatively poor heat conductors. It's possible to flatten a piece of round tubing, just for making this block, but the bending work is pretty intricate.

Maybe this is the right block for Joe :p

jaydee 06-19-2003 11:35 AM

Just goes to show you can make something completely worthless, make is shine a bit, post some BS on why you think it is "leet", and some dumb ass will pay $50 for it. Note someone bid on it.

leejsmith 06-19-2003 11:42 AM

this is the thread.

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...6&goto=newpost

rogerdugans at overclockers.com has contacted the guy that made it and he may send one t him for a review.

Skulemate 06-19-2003 11:53 AM

Well, it is sort of pretty... :p

bigben2k 06-19-2003 12:00 PM

I wouldn't call it "completely worthless" just yet. It certainly isn't going to perform anywhere near our latest designs, but it may still perform adequately, as a waterblock used to eliminate noisy fans.

jaydee 06-19-2003 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
I wouldn't call it "completely worthless" just yet. It certainly isn't going to perform anywhere near our latest designs, but it may still perform adequately, as a waterblock used to eliminate noisy fans.
Not a good chance it is worth the $50 performance wise though. Wouldn't you rather have a TC-4 or Spiral? Would make a nice "looky what I got" block though. Thats worth a lot more to some then performance.

bigben2k 06-19-2003 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Not a good chance it is worth the $50 performance wise though. Wouldn't you rather have a TC-4 or Spiral? Would make a nice "looky what I got" block though. Thats worth a lot more to some then performance.
Good point. For $50, it's easy to do better, much better...

#Rotor 06-20-2003 09:36 PM

in that blocks case, the $50 is spent well on looks, I'm sure making those are not the easiest of things, and for that ..... credit to it's creator, as for the claims that it's superior size in liquid volume, helps performance..... Maybe, but not in this universe :)

UnloadeD 06-21-2003 02:32 AM

QUOTE-"There is over 48 inches of 1/4" copper tube in each one." & "I use a brass base and copper tubing all soldered securely with a matching brass cap over the coppper."

Not gonna get much flow thru that sucka, and even if ya did, it wouldn't be much help with the brass/copper/solder all between the flow and the cpu. A generic hsf would be cheaper and prolly better.

peace.
unloaded

bigben2k 06-21-2003 09:46 AM

Just for kicks, I ran the calcs, for a straight section of 1/4" ID pipe (which is slightly different from reality):

Pressure drop @ 1 gpm: 3.3 feet aka 39 inches aka 1 meter
Pressure drop @ 2 gpm: 12 feet aka 143 inches aka 3.6 meter
Pressure drop @ 3 gpm: 25.3 feet aka 303 inches aka 7.72 meter

In actuality, the ID should be slightly bigger, but the calc doesn't account for the bends.

Calcs done using Hazen-Williams formulae (should have used Darcy, I know).


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