MicroPin Block w/ pics, specs
 

It all started when I found this site:
http://www.emachineshop.com/

So, using their s/w here is what I came up with

http://www.geocities.com/yiorgosx/Wa...Block_Base.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/yiorgosx/Wa...ock_Base_1.jpg

What do you think?

Umm nice geocities page, but I dont see any block there, just the nice Page not available deal :)

if the images are uner 75k you can upload them one per post in the forums.

I managed to get it to show. It's been done. Volinti has a version, I have a couple versions, Swiftech has a version, Koolance has a version, #Rotor has a version, ect... :)

Here is one of his pics.

What di you get as a quote for that? Just to test it out I made a 1.5/2.5in chuck on CU and the quote was for over 80$. IT said it required oiver 300 machines. I think there was an error in such a simple piece. I also got a very limited selection of materials, nothing over an 1/8 of an inch for Cu or PolyCarb.

i made a 2x3in block of copper and it required over 400 machines, cost $80 and had a 1 month wait for them to make it.

oooo goooody... lets see how realistic they are with there quotes...

nice block, try to make the pins concave-square, much better for turbulence and surface aria\volume ratio

I think this place only does work on sheet material. In everything I've read they only meantion sheet machining and the default machine is a CNC punch. Materials are listed at many thicknesses but are never available. I'm somewhat disapointed because when I first saw this I got pretty excited.

When I first saw this I thought it would be a nice option. The site mentioned automation and other nice things. But after playing with the prgram and getting a quote of 80$ for a 3x3x0.188in piece of Cu I had some doubts. Then I realized they only did sheet materials. So I thought maybe the plain pice of material caused some error in the quote routine. So I added some punched 1/2 holes to it. For a 1.5x1.5x0.188in Cu plate with 4 0.5in holes it would cost $82.94 take a month to make on 394 machines.

Seriously I think this shop is run by little gnomes. When an order is placed 394 of them will run out and start making it with stone age chisles and hammers.

Easy to get them to show once you load the page just put a space at the end of the URL and hit enter :p

Jaydee you can now add my name to your -long-list, but this was not my intention. :p

Originality is an important issue, but isn't the issue here about improving known designs? What about the specs ? Should base plate be thinner or thicker? What is the performance of the blocks you have? Do you have any ideas on making the block more efficient? After all the way I see it, almost everyone is trying the 'Cathar approach', creating versions or WW or Cascade, which I actually did myself.

What exactly do you mean by that #Rotor? My English is not that good ... :confused:

Haven't yet sent those guys the design to know a quote, since I'm not sure about final specs.

Sorry for the troubles with geocities. I knew that they weren't the best site, but didn't know that they were crap..

These are my current one's I have pics of:
Rev. 4
http://www.customcooledpc.com/micro3/006.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/micro3/001.jpg
----
Rev. 3
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/010.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/002.jpg
http://www.customcooledpc.com/REV30/015.jpg
----
Rev. 2
http://www.customcooledpc.com/chill2/009.jpg
----
Lemon Block
http://www.customcooledpc.com/comp/009.jpg

The pin concept is sound and it simply works. But if you want the best performance then go with a "Cascade" style block. There isn't a Pin style block that will compete with it nor can one be made unless the inpingment of the Cascade is included, but then the pins would be pretty useless.

My Rev. 4 and now my Rev. 5 is as efficent as I can make the Pin concept. I have a DD Maze 4 coming so once I get it and test it and test my blocks against it it will give an idea how good my Pin style blocks are. I am expecting White Water performance, but will settle for kicking the Maze 4's ass.

Now for your design I would say make the pins round or at least diamond shaped. Make the pins 3 times as high as the thickness of the base (after all milling is done). Duel outlets, not a huge gain but it is very evident in my Lemon Block and Rev. 2-5 designs. Base thickness should be around 1.5mm. Don't go much less or the block might collapse for lack of support.

After it is perfected expect about the same results as a TC-4. Might get close to a White Water, but nothing near Cascade performance.

Where are the mounting springs on your "pinned" water block?

After the amount of trouble I had seating my maze 3 square and that HAD springs I don't thinnk I would want to make it even more dificult.

I don't use them. I have no troubles at all mounting blocks. Of course I mount/un-mount/re-mount 20 times a week.... You get use to it after a while. I get a perfect imprint nearly every time.

:)


What I meant was, the shape of the pin.... make the sides concave as compared to flat. it lengthens the side, and reduces the volume of the pin slightly, each corner of the pin is now also much more prone to induce even more turbulence as a result of the curved side.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll work it a little and post another design

interesting site...new thinking

ok, here's the latest revision of the block.
New specs are:

Base plate thickness is 1mm, pins are 4mm long.

Pins are what's left if drilling with 2.2mm bit, at 2mm spacing.
Mid plate holes are directed to the middle of the virtual square between pins.

It seems that I can't make it with pictures...:D

Mid plate

Top plate

This design doesn't warrant a 1 mm baseplate. You ought to start with 3mm, and see if making it thinner improves performance. I'd even consider starting out at 4mm, and working my way down, in 0.25mm increments.

You mean that it won't hold the mounting pressure?

No, 1mm is to thin for that large area. 3mm-4mm is a good start point. That will assist the heat to spread a little better to all those pins.