The Anti corrosive question revisited
 

After searching here, the OC, and even the [H] it seems that there is still a lack of a definitive anti corrosive additive.
BigBen started a poll.. any results ??
A few months ago you (BigBen) stated that you were going to test Silkolene. Did that work well?
I know this topic has been beaten to death, but it lives for a reason. I experienced the same ropy slime buildup that Billa did with water wetter. I currently use distilled water and Humidifier bacteriostat to kill the buggies. I run with almost all copper (2 brass fittings) so it is not a problem now, however I will upgrade to a heater core with significantly more brass and would like some updated info if it is available.
So anti corrosive, no buildup, non-staining are the properties I am looking for.

The results were inconclusive.

No, I haven't tested Silkolene yet, but I did receive the sample, thanks to Bruce, from CoolTechnica.

Thanks for the reply, I am sure you will update the forum when you do try it (Silkolene ). I also read that Billa was to receive a sample, but with the new job etc... I dont expect he will post on the subject any time soon (but I can hope).

I take it that Airspirit is still using Hyperlube despit the "Sick algae buildup"? I use Humidifier bacteriostat in my system. Anyone have any thoughts on mixing Hyperlube (as an anti corrosive) and this Humidifier Bacteriostat ?

Since no one has any thoughts on mixing HyperLube and Humidifier bacteriostat I am now wondering about Hyperlube in general. Since it acts in much the same way as water wetter does it also suffer from buildup over time. DOes Hyperlube come out of solution? anyone with some long term experience?
Thanks for any info.

Water Wetter... Suffering from build-up over time... Build-up of what, exactly? Algae, corrosion, other gunk?

I ask because I'm running Water Wetter in my new system. I used a capful of WW, and my cooling system capacity is just over 1 Liter of water. I gathered from a couple other posts from various people that's about how much they use, because too much will cause foaming. Any thoughts on that? Too much? Too little? Should I be running other additives?

Black ICE Extreme
Danger Den Maze 4 (copper with lucite top)
Danger Den Z-Chip (copper with lucite top)
Danger Den GeForce4 GPU block (copper with lucite top)
Hydor L30
Bay-Res

Boomer: I don't know enough about Hyperlube to tell you what exactly happens to it. All I know is that it's used as an anti-corrosive agent. If it has any properties to prevent algae, it's a bonus.

So if you have a mixed metal loop, specifically with aluminium and copper, you must use one.


tdloc: We don't know the nature of the build up, but it's a very thin slime that coats the inside of a loop. Airspirit found a way to clean it though.

The quantity you're using is OK. WW is supposed to be mixed at 4%. WW contains a surfactant, which can make the water bubble/foam. This goes back to a well designed airtrap, more than the surfactant though. In your case, the WW is optional. Without it, the copper will slowly tarnish over time, which you'll have to acid clean (vinegar) once in a while. The anti-corrosion would slow down that effect.

With the newer blocks like the White Water and the Cascade which can be easy to plug anything that creates a film of any sort is bad news.

And if it's trying to form a film then you can bet it's also thickening your coolant. Also not good, in any amount.

Thus I'm going to run methanol 7% with water. I see two advantages to this.

1. It will inhibit growth of biologics.

2. thins the coolant allowing a higher flow rate.

Both are good. I'll also be very carefull to use only distilled water, never tap water.

Methanol will also require keeping the system tightly closed.

You should be cleaning your tubing periodically. I am using the following:

70% distilled, 20% red glycol, 5% hyperlube, 5% sanitizer. I have no bacterial growth in over 80-100ft of tubing and piping, and I have absolutely no corrosion. Further, there is no film on my tubing at this time. In a smaller system, use less sanitizer/glycol and more hyperlube and you'll be fine. Remember, that stuff in my system lived through ALCOHOL ... I don't think any additive other than the *sol enema would kill that stuff.

Hyperlube is my preferred additive, along with other protections.

Mine too...

So WW is causing that stringy white stuff??? hmm...

took a closer look at my maze3 and it looks like the buildup is starting again in addition to slight clouding of tubing. I think my previous pinesol enema didn't catch everything and considering the amount of direct sun my PC gets, must be a serious breeding ground in there...

What might you mean by 5% Sanitizer??? Something similar to the above mentioned Bacteriostat. Please elaborate Airspirit.

Thanks for the response BTW.

this is just an idea but chlorine seems to kill all the brown slimy "gunk" and algae and everthng else in the water in my pool that is organic. i am assuming this will work in a cooling setup because my pool is always crystal clear, even though there is always sumthing dead floating around in it
the only problem i see with it is that it might be corrosive on the materials (highly doubt that) and it may lower the heat capacity of the water

Airspirit,

What happened to your system? What grew in it with alcohol mixed in?

What % of water/alcohol were you running?

Thanks for the warning to. I may add in a spoon or two of bleach, I don't think anything would get past that.

There have been sooo many posts about this but one more apparently can't hurt. DO NOT USE BLEACH, chlorine Clorox etc.. in your water cooling setup. It is corrosive, and this has 2 results. First is that the valuable water blocks and Radiators corrode, second is that in the process of corroding your metals the bleach losses its effectiveness as and anti bacterial it becomes neutral (after the chemical reaction with the metal in your system) and therefore only does harm to your system. There have been several threads with people a lot more knowledgeable than myself that explain the exact process in technical detail.

Where the heck can you get that stuff?

Synonyms are methyl alcohol and wood alcohol (because it used to be prepared from the burning of wood and distillation of the vapor.)
If you cant find it at a Home store .. try chemical supply stores.. or a place that sells Go Cart stuff, or RC (Radio controlled) car stuff.
There is always online ;)

http://www.goemerchant7.com/index.cg...ExpandedDepts=

White Stuff ?
 

I was just wondering if this white film everyone has been talking about could be anaerobic bacteria. I ran an aquarium for some time with an external filter and I noticed a white film buildup on the pipes running from the filter. I read somewhere this is caused by anearobic bacteria.

I did a search on the net about this and came up with a chemical used in water purification called stabilised Chlorine dioxide(http://www.lenntech.com/chlorine_dioxide.htm). It says it's non corrosive and removes "Biofilm" from pipes. If you goto this link see the sections on biofilm and cooling towers.

Just my thoughts anyway.

First off.. Welcome to the Forum :) I don't have many posts but have been lurking for some time.
The link is very interesting and I hope that some of the more knowledgeable members give their input on the potential of stabilized Chlorine dioxide.

From what I have read Water Wetter is a type of oil in solution. Once aerated (or over time) it comes out of solution and creates a film, coating the interior of the system. You however might be correct in that it is really an anaerobic bacteria. I hope this grabs the attention of someone who might shed more light on the subject. Thanks for the link.

I know the initial post was for an anti-corrosive, but CoolROD and I are in the process of building a 100% electric solution to remove any chance of biotics.

We'll both post some results on here, however it's rather basic, we both have ordered UV Sanitizers. Not much different from those used in high end aquariums.

Do a search on UV here for more information.

Just my .02.

H

I would second the earlier motion for more detail on all of these (except the water ;) )

I'm assuming 'red glycol' is antifreeze of some sort, but what brand, source, etc.

What is the sanitizer? (brand, source, etc.)

More details on Hyperlube (sources, etc) would even be helpful.

Ouch... Are you sure the deposit was living stuff, and not some kind of mineral/organic substance? Also what %age alcohol? As a home brewer I can tell you that some yeast strains will do very nicely in over 18% ethanol solutions :D

Is that the Pine-sol and Lysol blend I've heard about? If so, is there a more precise formula, or do you just dump in a good slug of each?

Thanks,

Gooserider

Hi guys! I am new here too but I'm wondering if anyone has had experience of using just distilled water and water wetter with a white water block? Will this clog the microchannels or not? I have an Eheim 1250 pump, everything is 1/2" and I switch the pump off when not using the machine, which can mean it's off overnight as well.

Okay, time to debunk some of the common ones:

H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide): corrodes the fsck out of your blocks, decent biocide

Bleach: corrodes the fsck out of your blocks, very good biocide

Methanol: neurotoxin that WILL slowly seep through your tubing ... do you want to die? Only really good for sub-zero applications ... very good biocide, but lowers efficiency of water loop

Antifreeze: lowers efficiency of water loop, good anticorrosive, decent biocide

Water Wetter: helloooooo white deposits, very good anticorrosive, mediocre biocide, can increase efficiency slightly

Hyperlube: negligible deposits, very good anticorrosive, mediocre biocide, can increase efficiency slightly

Isopropanol: you need ALOT to keep your system bug-free (I used 25% of commercial solution, or about 5% total solution and it did NOT work) and it lowers loop efficiency ... not an anticorrosive ... not recommended

Non Chlorine non bromine sanitizer: not an anticorrosive, VERY good biocide, can cause slight hose filming, lowers loop efficiency

*sol (75% Pine Sol 25% Lysol): cleans hose deposits, kills bugs, raises your grandmother from the grave, organizes your socks, VERY bad for efficiency

You guys be the judge ... my fav glycol mix is the red stuff. Mixed with hyperlube it takes on this diluted blood red/orange look and is pretty wicked.

edit: to do a *sol flush you just need to empty the fluid from your loop and add the above proportioned mixture to your system. The filthier it is, the higher concentration you need to use, though I'd add a bit of water just to thin it a bit if you don't have a burly pump. Drain, flush, and refill with your coolant of choice for a nice clean loop.

I should sell the stuff, hehe ... then I'd be almost as parasitic as some of the mainstream watercooling companies out there! ... On second thought, I'm not that evil ....

Good post Airspirit. You've actually tested all this on your setup? That must have taken some real time =]

BO(V)BZ

Thanks for the concise breakdown Airspirit.
Is this the type of sanitizer you use?
http://www.parpool-spa.com/Page/Spa%...re_System.html

That looks like the one. Mine was in a clear generic bottle. That looks the same.

As for time on my setup, it has been more than a hobby ... it is more like a child at this point, hehe. Every phase added different coolant tests and every block swap allowed me to try something new. Some of the above data is just from reaction data that can be gathered from any MSDS.