FINALLY Watercooled
 

Thanks a LOT, to everyone that has been helping me for the last several days (and past year+ for my newbie questions) during my first hands-on experience of watercooling. I've been wanting to watercool for over a year now and it finally came true tonight. While i'm still learning the ins and outs, i want to, again, thank everyone, esp bigben2k and cathar.

anyways, enough of the mushy stuff :p

ahhhh, feels good to be back on my main rig. although i just applied the AS Ceramique, does 100F seem average/too high for an idle system -- 1.47GHz (XP1700+) (GPU is watercooled too)?

100F - MBM5
92.3F - Enermax Probe (taped behind mobo where the cpu is. it's a pain in the butt trying to get the probe stay next to the core)

sorry ben, i couldnt help myself and assembled/tested/running my water setup and forgot about the nanometer test.


eheim 1250 -> dtek pro core -> whitewater -> maze4 gpu -> eheim 1250 (in series)

What's your ambient?

room temp - 83F

Yeah, you're doing extremely well. ;)

Congratulations.

Now you'll have to pop by the house, and help me finish mine. :D

I wish i could come over and check out your new rig :)

[edit]
closed the case and o/c'd to 2GHz (10.0 x 200MHz @ 1.6v)

ambient - 81.4F
mbm5 - 105F
enermax - 100.7F

idle

makes me want mine done, but it'll have to wait until after the move :-(
have any pics?

ooooohhhh yes! i plan to make some articles about all the stuff i've been doing -- did some more case mods while my pc was out of commission, and finishing up my lian li stealth version 2.

some stuff:

1. ez light mod (electric tape over piece of plastic-straw so hd/power led will be brighter)
2. painting floppy drive (10x less impressive than you might think)
3. putting cables in flexo sleves (check svc.com for flexo info)
4. first ever (?) 3.5" stealth mod (not stealthing floppy drive)
5. some mods that have been done before but my take on it (ie: stealth 5.25" mod)
6. and of course water cooling how-to

all mods will be based on Lian Li cases, specifically PC65.

Note: Watercooling is still a work in progress as some of the hoses are still too long to fit nicely in the case.

check out my site's pre-article images for all the pictures i've been taking. i'm uploading them now, straight from the digicam, and my upload is capped at 16k. 56kers beware. i'll optimize the images when the articles are released. (btw, geeksupport.com isn't up if you're wondering about the front page). Also, I have not reviewed any of the files being uploaded--doing a straight transfer from the CF Card.

here are some more random images of my stuff.

round cables? (ide)

yes, i use UV Reactive rounded cables (from bestbyte.net)

too bad the uv lights i just got from SVC seem to have stopped working. before, it would turn on for a couple seconds then just die. now it doesnt turn on at all--either of the two i have hooked up to the inverter box.

this is a little strange. the blow hole is now pushing out noticeably warm air. also the PSU is a lot hotter. maybe it's just something i never noticed before.

temps getting pretty warm at 114F (MBM5) & 107.7F (Enermax), idle at 2.0GHz. the eheim 1250 is pretty warm to the touch too

[edit]
ROFL, maybe because i had prime95 torture test running in the background :p

stopped: 45min, 0 errors, 0 warnings. MBM5-113F, Enermax-107.4F

[edit2]
50min later, idle temps
mbm5 - 102F
Enermax - 96.2F
room temp - 79.8F

(room feels a lot colder than 79.8F. I have a box fan pulling in cold air)

try going for 6 hours overnite Prime95. The temps should balance out by then.

btw nice pictures up untill today i didn't know that D-Teck used secure torx screws (with the pin in the middle) nice to know that / good thing i have a tool for that.


BTW nice system. Congrats on figuring it all out.

thanks. as for the thing that holds to the rad, dtek is still using these
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/images/pr...roud%20kit.jpg
I went out and bought those quick-mounts at pep-boys

[edit]
which part are you referring to? I may have misunderstood your comment.

He was referring to the head of the screw that holds the waterblock together. Normally, that shape is a torx, but with a pin in the middle, you'd need a special tool to take it apart, which "dima y" says he has.

What's the thing in IMG_0298 ? Some kind of pushbutton extension?

Still your temps are excellent. I'll also be using Ceramique, for the TIM joint, unless some of the thermagon samples I got turn out to be better, but I doubt it.

Thanks :D I'm glad that i got this right, now my fingers can finally start to heal

prime95 Torture test
Time ~ 4hrs (still letting it go)
MBM5 - 118F
Enermax Probe - 112F
Room - 81.8F

IMG_0298 is one of those magnetic openers.
when closed: push in to extend arm.
when extended: push in to close.
kinda like the one used for tv-stand doors.
Since i had to cut my 3.5" cage to fit the radiator, I used the bottom bay to stealth a UV toggle switch (or i should say will after finding out what went wrong w/ the inverter from svc -- it won't turn on anymore). cutting the case wasn't up to my liking since, sometimes, the dremel has a mind of its own (lower right of bottom 5.25" blanking-plate)

[edit]

check out
IMG_0344
IMG_0345
IMG_0346

for it in action. the metal piece is stuck to the 3.5" blanking-plate.

[edit 2]
OMG!!! No wonder the PSU is so hot, the fan inside stopped working! not good.

[edit 3]
(changed "its own" link above)

somehow the fan connector (2pin) in the PSU got loose. all is well now.

[edit 4]
prime 95 torture test results for 6hrs
room - 88.2F
cpu - 118F (MBM5) / 111.3F (probe behind mobo)
gpu - 105.6F (probe behind card)
system - 98F (MBM5)

[edit5]
let idle for about 3hrs
room - 84.6F
cpu - 107F (MBM5) / 103.1F (probe behind mobo)
gpu - 99.5F (probe behind card)
system - 89F (MBM5)