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-   -   Getting Clearflex tubing over copper pipe (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7448)

LeadSalad 07-29-2003 06:54 PM

Getting Clearflex tubing over copper pipe
 
Is it possible to somehow get 1/2inch Clearflex tubing over 1/2inch copper pipe? Does boiling it work to soften it and then slide it over the copper pipe? Or am I going to have to solder pipe to brass barbs?

waterrat 07-29-2003 07:00 PM

1/2 a cup of water, 90 sec in the microwave and, voila!!:D

LeadSalad 07-29-2003 07:45 PM

Thanks, guess I'll try that.. :)

bigben2k 07-29-2003 08:10 PM

It's not easy, but it's possible. The OD of a "1/2 inch" copper fitting is more like 5/8".

I use the same nuked water.

yuanlong 07-29-2003 10:30 PM

Abit out of topic but still related...

If I got the tube over the copper pipe, it will be quite hard to pull out after some time of usage... so how do you guys pull it out, by heaten it again or any other method??

Zhentar 07-29-2003 10:40 PM

A utility knife works pretty well for getting it off I'd assume.

I've started leak testing my first watercooling set up.

The hose I boiled to get on the 5/8" pipe on my radiator are the only 2 connections that didn't leak on my first test, even without anything holding them tight.

bigben2k 07-30-2003 08:19 AM

Clamps become optional, at this point: the tight connection works almost as well as a clamp itself would.

To get it off, you can pull the tubing at an angle, back and forth, while pulling out.

Spike 07-30-2003 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by waterrat
1/2 a cup of water, 90 sec in the microwave and, voila!!:D
Or you could just boil some water in a kettle :)

waterrat 07-30-2003 03:32 PM

but, I like microwave.

I use clamps any way, on all my connection, and my radiator does not have barbs

CoolROD 07-30-2003 10:22 PM

The nominal O.D. of 1/2" pipe is .840" -This holds for any schedule -"wall thickness" SCH 10, 40, 80, 120 etc.

bigben2k 07-30-2003 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CoolROD
The nominal O.D. of 1/2" pipe is .840" -This holds for any schedule -"wall thickness" SCH 10, 40, 80, 120 etc.
Yeah but copper is a bit different.

I found that the 1/2" fittings have an OD that's 1/16 short of 3/4", aka 11/16".:mad:

The 3/8" fittings are perfect for 1/2" tubing though.

CoolROD 07-30-2003 11:08 PM

Ben -you know more than most people but here it is for the record:

The male (and female) threaded part of 1/2-14 NPT has to have the same geometry -across the board- for the typical takeup of .4375 (7/16"). SCH 40 would have an ID of about .622" (~5/8"), an O.D. of .840" So your first thread could be roughly 11/16" (.688) -Now that is a 3/16" Dia. stretch -it can't be fun putting those on! ...and it is going to leak because there is nothing to fill in the void between threads. :rolleyes:

Material shouldn't make a difference for american standard pipe.

bigben2k 07-30-2003 11:16 PM

No, I was referring to copper fittings and pipe, the kind that you solder together. ;)

I was just at the hardware store, and I had my tape measure with me!

I also measured a threaded PVC 90 elbow (schedule 80), and the inside is still 3/4", and in the same bad mitre configuration. In other words, to get that sweep in an elbow, you really have to use the copper fittings.

3/8" fittings are good for 1/2" tubing, but the actual curve in the fitting is narrower than the connection, probably more like 3/8" (go figure!).

I asked my buddy Roger what cheap pipe bender he used: I'm going to have to try something myself.

Now if only there was 5/8" copper parts available anywhere, then I might be able to clamp my 3/4 tubing to it. (btw, the 3/4" fitting have an OD of ~1 inch:eek: ).

CoolROD 07-30-2003 11:37 PM

OK you are looking at copper tubing -like you sweat (solder)together. Soft copper tubing is regularly available in 5/8" Dia. It is soft enough that it is sold in rolls in boxes.

You can easily bend it in your hands but if you want tight radiuses you do need a bender...or even a long spring that just fits over the tube ;) I have a set of benders made this way and they work pretty well. Get an extension spring so it will have a lot more coils to support the tubing.

Tubing benders are available pretty cheap also. My local Carquest sold one this week that would do 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 for $7.00. And it was the type with a moving arm which is much better than the one piece units.

bigben2k 07-30-2003 11:53 PM

Here's what my buddy Roger did:
http://www.wc101.com/articles/coppertubing.php

...and yes, he did use vynil for the connections to the blocks. ;)

He made a reference to a "tube bending spring". Is that what you were talking about?

I'd like to be able to make really tight bends, but if I have to, I'll use 45 elbows fittings. The problem is still that there's no fitting that'll accept a 3/4 braided hose with ease.

CoolROD 08-01-2003 12:58 AM

Just curious...what kind of "braided" hose are you using?

bigben2k 08-01-2003 07:16 AM

It's regular ole' 3/4" ID braided vinyl hose that I got at the hardware store. Dirt cheap, but solid as a bullet!

mad mikee 08-01-2003 08:33 AM

heat guns work wonders also
 
Variable temp Heatguns from the local hardware store, put a little lube on the pipe (no not that one!) and just wiggle it on over. Clamps will be required since it will probably not be a vise-like grip. Also don't try for ridiculous expansion like 1/2" tube on 3/4" pipe!:D :D


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