swiftech WARRANTY
 

Anybody know the Warranty on swiftech water blocks and what it covers ?

Sorry checked there website but couldnt find any info ...Maybe i,m going blind hehe

maybe check out www.resellerratings.com to get an idea?

go to the shopping cart, select an item, go to checkout
and there is the warranty
cannot place an order without agreeing to it

Thankies for your replys and thank you bill that did the trick :)


I just have a block where the Anodizing has failed :(

and were you using the Swiftech corrosion inhnbitor ?

N.B. the anodizing cannot fail if corrosion inhibitor is used
repeat: cannot fail if corrosion inhibitor is used

is the inhibitor extra? Just for grins.. how long did it last before wearing out?

AntiFreeze

This is an older MCW372 block i picked up at frys

Must of been a scartch or somthing on the anodizing inside the block that made it fail :(


This block is less than 6 months other block looks fine exept for a bit of anodizing comming off the inlet and outlet on the inside with just a tad of corrosion

ps: I still think the quility of the swiftech stuff is second to none ..so i dont know why this did this :(

sorry, not possible if inhibitor was used

auto mfgrs recommend a minimum 25% solution of antifreeze for corrosion protection
this has been stated numerous times, but its not what the kiddie/posting 'experts' wish to proclaim

-> all DIYers thinking that something is being accomplished with 5 or 10% are deluding themselves

why would i lie over a $20 block hehe


Antifreeze could of been a tad week .....But the Anodizing shouldve of failed ..Like i said had to be a scratch on the inside

This the other block as you can see Its starting to fail at the same spots.......I can make a new set of poly tops for them both ..I dont care they just $20 blocks lol

I,m building a new box and was wanting to give the new swiftech blocks a try and thats the Reasone i was asking about the Warranty ..before i slap down $100+ for a new set of blocks would like to know what it coverd :)

I think this "you have to know what to use stuff" is difficult, there are very little test outhere of different additives.

Im using swiftechs blocks, with "car batteri" water and D-tek:s Supercool additive, should i also use antifreezer in the mixture?

It´s a jungle out there with different products, wich is best and wich is not. Severeral people have said to me to stay out of Water Wetter because it eats plastics, such as the pump parts, so i did.

So, should i use antifreeze with supercool with the swiftech blocks?

B t w here in sweden you cant buy swiftech special water additives, have no seen it anywhere around.

we have not tested the D-Tek additive so I cannot comment directly
if they sell it for the purpose of inhibiting corrosion of aluminum it should be ok
- and if this is the case antifreeze is unnecessary

Water Wetter does NOT eat plastics
but it does contain a synthetic oil which will eventually come out of solution and coat every single surface
- while this is exactly what Redline intended to occur in engines, such is not helpful in WCing wbs and rads

Thats the thing, you cant be really sure before you get corrosion, but this is what D-tek has to say about Supercool:

"This is the ultimate Water corrosion and additive. Supercool Fortifies all coolant to wet heat transfer surfaces by 50%. Provides superior corrosion protection and for all types of metals. One bottle treats a typical watercooling system. Will meet and exceed Water Wetter and Purple Ice!"

Edit: I dont know what Supercool contains as it is not specified on the bottle, but it smells like soap to me.

lol
well, soap is a surfactant so will improve "wet heat transfer by 50%" ????
(have no idea what this actually means, would like to see the test method !)
and soap is basic so will inhibit the growth of algae
j/k

should be fine

My set up ...May of been a tad week with the antifreeze but it shouldnt of failed like it did ..That points to the block anodizing not having a complete uniform coverage.... As you can see they both failing at the same points :/

wrong
they both failed the same way because of a lack of corrosion inhibitor

why do you have such difficulty accepting responsibility for your actions ?

FYI, with our HydrX™ inhibiter even BARE aluminum is protected

Dont give me that double talk ......If the anodizing was done right with complete uniform coverage.... They wouldnt of failed at the same exact points ....Both failing at the same spot points to a quality control issue with the anodizing or Manufacturing ....

your ignorance is showing

the corrosion initiates at the same point, and WHY ?
because that is the low pressure point of the inlet where there is maximum turbulence
this accelerates the corrosion rate

all you need is an understanding of fluid mechanics and metallurgy
and I would suggest logic as well

I suggest you get an education, then speak of double talk

No its your ignorance that is showing ... I dont care what your self proclaim expertise is in .....The facts remain the same that If there was no exposed bare aluminum to begin with it would not of coroded as fast as it did in those spots ..........

My turn...
Can we stop pointing fingers here? It really dumbs down what is otherwise the most intelligent OC forum around. However, I must place my regrettably amateur weight(220lbs) squarely with unregistered, as he has the right of it, as far as corrosion goes. But if you would like to totally prevent corrosion, then stick with one metal only throughout your setup, as corrosion is most evident when multiple metals with different levels of nobility(number of spare electrons) interact via the water. That little bit of wisdom is pulled from high-school chemistry. That said, if you wish to continue using that block, since that part of the block has nothing to do with heat transfer off the CPU die, just get some spray-on plastic and coat liberally, getting all of it's inner surface coated so you do not have to bust open the bank for a new WB. By the way, the correct ratio of antifreeze/water will vary based on your cooling setup. If you do without supercooling, then stick with the previously quoted 25/75 mix. If it is supercooled, you should probably up the ration to 35/65 or something similar. That's my rant for now...

nOv1c3
this is not the hard forums where if you say something 3 times the kids will call you an expert
here if you say something you will be asked for the factual basis supporting your assertion
-> an opinion is not a fact
have you not started to wonder why you are all alone in your petit crusade ?

"I dont care what your self proclaim expertise is in"
this is a bit laughable, nothing self proclaimed here

Maybe you should take your own advice

The facts are simple ..That first block is less then 6 months old the second block was in the loop less than a month ..Even if i was using plain tap water that corrosion should not of been as bad as it is unless there was a breech in the protective coating of the block


You have called me a liar tried to demean and belittle me in this thread ..... But i see thats an ongoing tactic of yours when anybody disgree or questions your self proclaimed expertise ..we see it in many of your threads ... Its speaks valume of what kind of man you truly are ..I,m not real impressed

it is difficult to transfer info to someone who is unable to understand what is being said

this statement:
"Even if i was using plain tap water that corrosion should not of been as bad as it is unless there was a breech in the protective coating of the block"
-> is wrong

do yourself a favor, buy 2 more of these wbs and run them with tap water

report back with your 'findings'
(or you could cheat a little and just post the same images)
for you will have the same results

what we have is a 'expert' teener who wants to blame somerone else,
and an old sob telling him to shove it (for the last time)
carry on

Please stop arguing (if you have not already):

nOv1c3 i can see where you are coming from BUT you bought the blocks at FRY'S. Probably some sucker kid bought them before you and opened it all up and scratched it. Or worse put some Lye in it (which destroys the anodized coating).

Bill, you have to understand that many people think of the anodized coating as all preventive. Plus not all of swiftech guides say that you reccomend antifreeze in the loop:

this one does:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/in...uide_MCW40.pdf
this one does NOT (i think):
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/in...uide_MCW50.pdf

I say you both move on please, epecially because nOv1c3 says:

dima y
thanks for the info, will update