Opinions Wanted For This Block
This is what I'm thinking of getting made. The block will be 12mm thick, and the base of the block to the CPU will be 4mm thick. It will use three 1/2" OD barbs. I would appreciate any comments on how I can improve it (keep in mind i want it to be as free flowing as possible, because I will have northbridge, GPU, and hard drive blocks in the loop as well.
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Here is the first pic.
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And here is the second pic.
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2 Suggestions.
1) make the base a little thinner. Maybe 2-3mm. leave the overall thickness the same though. That will not only help the heat spread up the fins but also increase flow. 2) Not sure how to explain this... Make the square more oval... Round the corners to line up with the outlets grooves.... Hummm. I will draw it up real quick... be back in a minute. |
I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.
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Here is what I mean. It should help smooth flow a little. |
Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.
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Looks good though. |
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Ok, I made the recommended changes and came up with this. The outermost fins had their length reduced a tad just so that flow around the outer curves won't be restricted. Any other suggestions on how to make it better?
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Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.
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I decided to just go side in side out. The middle plate probably won't be able to distribute water to all the fins well enough, so I scrapped ideas for a third barb. I would remove some of the pins, but this block is for a Athlon 64, so I would prefer not to.
P.S. I already know that the holes don't match up with A64 boards, so I'm getting a Leadtek one that has the original 4 holes in the board. |
I'm gonna have to redesign this block now for two reasons:
1. I decided to go with a Abit KT800 board, which doesn't have the 4 original holes in the mobo. 2. I found out that the Athlon 64 heatspreader is 40x40mm, so the current desing just won't cut it. Does anyone know what AMD's "clear zone" is for socket 754 boards, and also how far the two hole on the board are (center to center)? |
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Ok, I revised the block quite a bit and also realized that I was not using 1/8" as a distance between fins, so I now have this:
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And this complete assembly too. =)
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Yep that design is good. Already tested it on a P4 and it shakes the house. Need to look at your base dimensions though. I will leave you to work out why.
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Why what?
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Stagger the width between fins. An example would be 1mm then 1.5 mm and so on across the fin width.
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i love it.....!!
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That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use.
8-ball |
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http://www.employees.org/~slf/hydra/hydra1-3.jpg http://www.employees.org/~slf/hydra/hydra1-4.jpg http://www.employees.org/~slf/hydra/hydra1-5.jpg The above block performs about 1C worse than a White Water for straight CPU use, but for TEC's it rules. |
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I am sure your aware of tis Cathar but that looks similar to the Silver Prop Fusion.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...hreadid=229357 |
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There's a definite recurring theme when it comes to Silverprop. |
Its sad, Some people just dont have any morals.
Theres a VERY good reason I dont post a lot of my work on the internet. BTW cathar, I have a pelt block thats probably just as rockin as yours:D for 226W pelts. or thats the max size(50mm) I showed some frosty pictures, but none of the innards. Jon |
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