HDD Waterblock? All I have is a good drill press.
 

I've been wanting to make my own waterblock for my two Quantum atlas 10KIIIs. They're louder than hell and I'd love to make them STFU... So I need to insulate them and do some suspension work. For that to work, they need to be kept cool.

Details of my loop:
Pump: Eheim 1250
CPU Block: DD Maze 4 w\ 1/2" OD fittings
Graphics Block: DD R9700 w\ 1/2" OD fittings
Tubing: 1/2ID Tygon
Rad: '85 ford econoline van HC
Radfans: 2x120mm Aluminum L1A

This setup keeps my 3.06@3.6 under 42*C load in a cold basement (20*C ambient)

All I have to work with is a good drill press, a jigsaw, a dremel, and a selection of bits for all of those.

My initial idea is to have 1 block sandwhiched by the two drives. I was thinking of making it out of plexi and two copper plates since that would cut down on the cost. I realize I'll need a tap for the fittings, which would be like the bigger one seen here:

http://www.dangerden.com/images/misc...c_fittingS.gif

And here is what I am seeing in my head so far:
http://server4.uploadit.org/files2/1...riveblock1.jpg
http://server4.uploadit.org/files2/1...riveblock2.jpg

(not to scale, really!)

I'm not sure how to seal the acrylic middle piece (water channel) to the copper plates and have it be good and watertight.

I'm not sure if i should to any surfacing on the copper (like divots) to increase turbulance.

Where should I get the copper for it to be cheap? I'm going to attempt to learn Qcad (I hear its easy) to draw up acrlic center for the block and have TapPlastics cut a few middles for me.

Okay... now what? :drool:

I opted to go with side cooling (see my sig). It's going to involve soldering a copper extension to the blocks, which will act as barbs. Otherwise, you could go with BladeRunner's way, and tap a copper piece for fittings, then solder it on.

Take a look at the Rotor style block, he has a drive block that sounds like it is EXACTLY what you are talking about.
It uses two copper plates, and the Rotor design is intended to be done with a drill press and dremel - what more can you want? It is a bit simpler than your design as well, since there would be fewer joints, and that one a metal to metal join.

I tried making a real basic plate by forming a maze from Cu tubing and solder sandwiching it between two plates. It works but is quite restrictive (which is OK since I have it on a seperate branch from the CPU blocks) and IMHO the Rotor design is better.

As to where to get the Copper, I would check your local major metal suppliers, and ask about 'surplus cutoffs' - One of the suppliers in my area (Admiral Metals) has a 'surplus store' where they sell all the leftover scraps from their custom cutting jobs. You have to be willing to take whatever sizes they have, but the cost is about half that of new stock - $4.00/lb. You might have a similar place near where you are. Otherwise, try your local salvage yards, although you'll be lucky to get anything the right size. (though if you do, the price will probably be really great)

Gooserider

Thanks gooserider & bb2k.

I'll have to do more digging into a how-to on the #rotor style. I'm just concenred with how to get 1/2" OD barbs onto the thing ;).

I do have a surplus city about 45 minutes away from me, I'll have to check it out sometime when I'm in that area. Hadn't thought of them for stuff like that.

Would a 'sheet metal shop' have copper blocks to play with?

Is there a good site to teach me how to solder copper together, or should I just have my friend, whose dad is a plumber, do it instead?

This is what I made for mine...

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mmz_tl_01...D%20Simple.jpg

This is how it came out...

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mmz_tl_01...s/Dscn0475.jpg

Hope that helps... :D

Also from this thread...

Thanks for the links MMZ>Timelord, I'd seen most of those (including your work) when I searched around.

Are you running your drive(s) in a sealed enclosure?

No not in a sealed enclosure... just in a regular drive cage that has holes drilled to allow the bottom drive to be upside down. This makes both drive motors face the water block and the top drive can clamp down the bottom one.

It keeps them both quite cool now. :D

Easiest way to do it would be to use thicker copper, but what I would do is use smaller barbs and tubes, then set up a split loop to avoid getting excess restriction. Of course you might not need to go that much thicker - the Rotor setups I've seen seem to me like they are best suited for 2 layers of ~ 3/8" Cu plate, or 6/8" = 3/4" thick. If you were to use one of the smaller thread sizes, or make your own nipples from tubing, it should be possible to make them fit into that thickness.
A sheet metal shop is unlikely to have blocks, but they might be able to point you at a good source. Machine shops might be even better. However it is worth remembering that Cu is actually not that commonly used, as there are relatively few applications that need it's properties. The place I get my Cu from is part of "Admiral Metals" in Woburn, MA. They are one of the biggest non-ferrous metal wholesale suppliers in the Northeast, they may go as far south as PA, I'm not sure. Part of their business is doing 'custom cuts' to give their big customers specific sized peices, which often gives them 'remnants' of whatever is left over from the standard sized peices. Rather than selling the leftovers to the scrapyard, they retail them off to small scale customers at less than full cost, but more than what the scrapyard would give them. :D
Soldering copper isn't that terribly difficult, and is a useful skill. There are threads here that describe the techniques, and after that the best way to learn is to get some scrap and PRACTICE... It's very much one of those subjects where the theory is important but there is no substitute for hands on doing it. OTOH, your plumber contact could do it for you without even trying hard. (but I like doing things myself better)

Gooserider