Tapping Copper
I have begun two blocks and with both I have broken the taps off when trying to thread the block so one will be a NB block but I will have to tap that too. Is there some thing I am missing with tapping copper? Why are they snapping off? I'm using taps that have four channels too, used em in stainless and aluminum with 0 problems :shrug:
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Using a T handle?
Lubrication? 1/2 turn forward, 1/4 turn back to clear the threads? |
Tapping copper is horrible with small taps. Typically anything 6-32 or smaller is really hard with regular taps.
For one, make sure your doing what uberblue is doing, secondly. if you got a lot to tap, get ahold of some thread forming taps, also called cold forming or fluteless. They use a little larger hole and you can virtually turn them all the way through the material with a little oil. The only downside is that there isnt as much of threads there. Close but not quite as much. They are typically a little stronger than the same amount of thread with a cutting tap becasue the metal is being pushed and not cut. I use a 4-40 tap and a #38 drill and I have tapped probably over 100 holes with the same tap. about 90% being in copper. They can be found at mcmaster, jtsmachine.com and many other places. dont expect to find them locally. Jon |
I have found that drilling the tapping hole slightly larger than specified (ie 0.2mm) works well in the soft copper. The slightly larger hole allows the tap to go through with a little less difficulty, yet still cuts a strong thread.
Arc |
Slow, slow, and slower. Uberblue got it right. You cannot do a full turn into copper. Copper is very soft and very dense. The material does NOT remove as well as aluminum. Slow with WD-40 or similar.
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And yes, using larger bits does work as long as the holes do not need to be blocking water or holding a signinficant load. |
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