i thought danner was a good pump
 

because my 2 week old mag 3 is LEAKING out the damn gasket. I took it apart and the O-ring looks intact. I cant see any cracks and its defintily coming out of the gasket's seal (Ive watched it drip). What gives? The screws were as tight as could be.

It has a known leaking problem. Anyone could have told you this. Just silicone/epoxy/goop/JB weld it, or, alternatively, try to get it fixed on warranty.

Welcome to Procooling.com March 2000 edition

aha, I shall pick some of that up. Do auto stores carry it, or will silicon sealent work just as well? I want something that needs as little curing time as possible because I am really, really sick of my craptop.

Vaseline works too, and is much less... permanent.

if I cant find RTV I'll get silicone sealent

thanks guys

OH SHIT OH SHIT OH SHIT OH SHIT

http://www.spatula-city.us/upload/up.../pumpbroke.jpg

Yeh, I'm selling this and getting a hydor. Hydor: a brand I've never ever had to **** around with. I notice i'm getting the same temps with my L20 that I did with the Mag 3, so fudge it. L25/30 for me!

If anyones interested in a great working pump except for some gasket issues check the for sale section :p

/edit: better picture:

http://www.spatula-city.us/upload/up...pumpbroke2.jpg

I read about the problems with danner pumps leaking around the gasket but I've never had a problem with my mag 5 and it's been running for 1.5 years without issue. The housing hasn't cracked either, I used a plastic barb for the inlet. Are these problems that widespread or is it a vocal minority that makes it seem that way?

kronchev: What CPU/radiator are you using? What temperature measuring are you using? Have you run a Hydor for several years?

right now:

2400+-Mobile (1.8 ghz) @ 2.1 ghz, 1.70 volts. Shoddy o/c but the temps go up maybe a degree or two with the highest OC on this POS chip, 2.3 ghz @ 1.825v. However I'm going to be running two of these things at that speed so I'm getting it used to this.

Double Bonneville core (got it from Autozone, nooo idea what any of the specs are for it, i just made up answers to the year, etc he was asking me).

I'm using...onboard diodes :( I know, its not accurate at all, but I am assuming that they will be calibrated around the same way, and the delta T is all I am looking at

This hydor is relativly new to what people are expecting in terms of reliability. It was my first pump, I joined in March when I got w/c, so that means its been going a whole 2 months 24/7, except for the two weeks when I had this danner disaster. It doesnt feel like its going to kick out, it is completly silent, and its very, very small, and oh yes IT DOESNT GIVE ME ANY BACKTALK, very important. I have had a good 2 months with a Hydor and I expect this thing to go a year, more. I dont expect to use it for a full year (I upgrade too often) but I could probabily find a system for it :D

Hehe good to see 4 years later people still can use that lil write up ... I do see that an image in it was replaced by something else though at the bottom, I will need to check that hehe.

You expect it to run for a year? Well, a Danner has a three year warranty, and a bit of a leaking problem... Would you rather goop a 36 dollar pump than buy three 50 dollar ones?

I had the same problem with my danner leaking. I fixed it with this.

http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh....&item_no=22071

probably the same thing you're talking about using. Danner seems to be a good pump. My girlfriend accidentally shut the fans/comp off without shutting off the tec, and the water got warm enough to make the pump dump all the water out. Probably warped the plastic housing some, but it runs fine after a reseal with the rtv liquid gasket. :shrug:

its inconsequental now with the breaking of the screwhole. I am incapiable at this point of being able to fix it well enough to work. anyone else probabily can but i have not the time nor the coordination. hell I fudged up sealing the damn thing, i sure cant fix a mount.