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Unread 03-29-2004, 02:28 PM   #15
Gooserider
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
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Quote:
pippin88:
Copper plate is either 2 or 3mm.
Depends on where you're from... Stateside it is usually either in fractional inch or 1/100'ths inch thickness for plate, and guage # for sheet.
Quote:
My piping is 1/2" pipe. I actually milled a flat on it to make it easy to solder.
Doesn't hurt anything, but probably not needed. I would also probably use tubing rather than pipe, though it doesn't make much difference. In theory the tube would be less restrictive since it has the same OD, but thinner walls giving a slightly larger ID.
Quote:
Not sure what street-90's are?
a 'street-90' or other 'street' fitting is one with one of the ends the same OD size as the pipe itself as opposed to the usual socket having an ID that matches the pipe OD.
Quote:
Once you have the technique right, soldering pipe is dead easy. My technique is:
Make sure joints are quite clean.
Place flux on the pipe and put in the elbow/whatever.
Heat the joint, occaisonally touching the solder to it until it begins to melt.
Then just touch the solder to the joint and it should be sucked in and run around the joint.
Good summary of the technique, although it is best to put flux on BOTH parts. It is also important to note that the parts should be a SNUG fit with just enough room to wick the solder into the joint. When fastening parts that don't have good mechanical connections (like putting the tubes onto the plates) the two peices should fit together as tightly as possible with few or no gaps. Clamping them together (after cleaning and putting flux on each peice) is a good idea.
Quote:
I silver soldered mine, as I just got a MAPP torch,
A bit of overkill - either regular lead solder, or the newer lead-free 'non-toxic' plumbing solders will do just as well, and work with propane which is much less expensive and easier to come by. The difference in corrosion resistance and thermal conductivity is not enough to notice if the joints are made properly.

A note on solder types...

1. True "Silver Solder" - contains real silver, and is relatively expensive, normally used only for Jewelry work and certain specialized electronic soldering. Needs higher temps than straight air/propane torches can provide.

2. "Plumbing Safe" solders - I believe they are mostly tin, with a small amount of antimony, and contain no lead. Most commonly used on plumbing, especially anything to do with drinking water systems. Legally required in most jurisdictions. Needs a slightly higher temp than lead based solders, but works fine with a propane torch. Even though it doesn't contain silver, is sometimes referred to as 'silver solder'

3. Lead based solders - Primarily lead, can be toxic if misused (as in lead poisoning) ILLEGAL to use on drinking water plumbing in most jurisdictions (and unhealthy in any) can be used on electronics or electrical connections only if used with ROSIN based fluxes, can be used on non-drinking water plumbing and other copper work with acid core fluxes. Lowest temperature requirements, which can be useful when working on heater core type rads as using this type of solder reduces the risk of desoldering other rad parts.

Quote:
If you do it right you get no leaks.
Most important note of all - the ability to make a leak free joint is critical! If you get a leak, don't try to seal it with silicone or other goop. Instead, reheat the joint, take it apart, fix the problem, and redo things properly. Most common problems are either poor joint fitups or dirt / moisture contamination and inadequate use of flux.

Gooserider
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Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c
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