Wow. That's one brutal basic block. <Applause>
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Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca
Have you considered having a 1/2" tube overtop a 1/4" tube so that you can use 1/2" tubing and get some nice impingement out of it?
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That or carefully crimp down the 1/2" to a taper. This can be done to soft pipe, using a tube cutter with the cutting wheel replaced by a blunt washer. Just tighten a little more each time you shift the de-clawed "cutter" towards the pipe end, and work slowly, back and forth.
A stretched spring shape (e.g. #14 solid wire wrapped around a dowel, then removed) inside the inlet pipe will spin the water, further improving "impingement". The principle that spinning things trace a truer path is employed by sharpshooters, firefighters, and inadvertently by men while standing in front of the toilet. The elongated spring (AKA rifling, IIRC) should be really drawn out. Too many turns, and it's just friction.
If you have a suitably sized hole saw, I think it worthwhile to cut a shallow seat for the top cap. The solder joint will be much stronger, and cleaner too.
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Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca
you must think about the mounting system which will be the problem.
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Originally Posted by Owen Stevens
Oh yeah, I almost forgot - I attached it using the four mobo holes in the same way as my previous water block with bolts, rubber backed washers, springs and some wing nuts.
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