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Originally Posted by DrMemory
A few words for the need for extreme caution are in order. A very high voltage source (10's of KV) producing even small amounts of current, 10's to 100's of uA can be DEADLY. This is way more voltage and current than is needed to start a heart fibulating. A cutoff switch to turn off the high voltage if the case is opened should be used. After the high voltage is turned off, some method of insuring that the high voltage is bled off should be used.
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Im no expert but I thought that the heart fribulation thing had to do with the frequency AC power being similar to the nervous system's impulses to the heart?
Isn't that why America use 110V @ 60Hz while most other places use 220V @ 50Hz?
Agree about bleeding of the high voltage. Seems that a 10Kohm resistor is used. Still don't want to be shocked!
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Originally Posted by DrMemory
Reversing the current flow through the primary winding of the flyback transformer should do the trick, but the drive circuit (power transistor and its control voltage) will have to be changed to do so.
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THX!
As the rad would be earthed it seems, after some research, that it does not matter wether the screen is + or -:
If positive, the positivly charged air will rush towards the rad. (closest thing) Draging neutral air molicules along with them. Negative air for a neg screen.
Speed is 28 800 Km/h for the ions!!
I would like to be able to switch the screen from + to - to check for the 'other' cooling effect.
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Originally Posted by DrMemory
...would make it extremely difficult to get the electrons to go where you wanted them to, although it might produce a really cool and unique "lighted" PC case. The downside is that it would almost certainly kill the motherboard.
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Nope:
Electricity, like heat, always takes the shortest path. So as long as the rad is the closest thing to the screen and electrical connections... thats where it, via ionised air, will go.
I would definatly prefer to use a plastic case though just to make sure that they all head in the right direction.
Yes there will some corona lighting though, so yeah! Cool lighting effects as a bonus!
Though I think it may be safe to install this inside a case I would definatly go external like Incoherent says. Just in case! Er... out case?
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Originally Posted by Incoherent
I think you'd want an external unit. Like a fly zapper kind of deal. Anyone know what kind of voltages those are producing?
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Hmm... Fly Zapper... good thinking there Incoherent! may be the perfect power supply!?
Also from my research it seems that high voltage likes to escape from sharp points, via ions. So a grid with evenly spaced sharp points would probably be best. Or very thin wire threaded on a insulated 'jig' could work well. Wire 0.1 mm thick is best it seems.
Been researching and thinking how to build this with testing in mind.
Sadly my old WC rad. and fan etc. enclosure is steel.
Pic 1:
The bottem box is home made
Pic2:
Pic3:
Some links I found for research:
Link1
Link 2
Link 3
Link 4
Feel like I pirated Cathar's thread , sorry C, maybe this should be moved??