[Joe]

yeh you are deffinitely running outside of any normal class spec in almost every way. I ran 26mm front and 30mm rear and those were more than enough to keep the car planted pending the car was setup well.

The aluminum rear uprights are what killed the season for me.. They claim 2 Deg toe in... yet when I checked toe... they are 1 Deg at the most. adn 1 deg just sucked for a semi grippy surface on a car with a wheel base that long. Also weight ballance on the car was something I also found upsetting. THe car is heavily ballanced to the engine side and quite a bit back from center in the car. making it able to take a hard turn one way with a certain charactaristic and the other way would be something different.

May want to look at ballast weight to ballance the car.

Also watch for the center dog bones to develop twists wtih teh new clutch. I found when I had some drive line lash I would snap the rear center dog bone all the time due to the instant torque that would be applied with the lash. (I also sheered a CVD head off twice with lash in the rear drive trane after a season. Its better now with more hardened parts in it but still not that well designed. (one of the major selling points for me is that the Kyosho w/ regular steel bearings, has 0 lash on the entire drive line and if you spin a wheel the all 4 will spin after you take your hand off for a few seconds.. theres that little drive line resistance.

One word of caution is those Graphite arms are VERY brittle I went back to plastic so they wouldnt shatter like the graphite ones did. if your lot/track uses walls of somethign hard, the graphite will break easily. Also I found that graphite parts wear bad, and develop lots of slop on the shafts and holes over time. Dunno why, just how it developed on mine.

The Graphite front hub/knuckle set is one I HIGHLY reccomend though, removes a great deal of the movement from the front.