Quote:
Originally posted by Butcher
Solder is less likely to crack from thermal expansion as it;s expansion is close to that of Cu or Al.
Also solder is structurally MUCH stronger than epoxy even the decent metal epoxies. I say this as I had epoxied barbs on my block - 2500psi bond on the epoxy and I snapped one off with a bit of rough handling. In comparision the soldered joints on the block survived it being dropped on the floor and the afrementioned rough handling. My barbs are now soldered 
And finally solder is quicker - the thing is done and dusted in an hour tops, epoxy you have to leave for 24 hours to cure.
|
24HRS!!! No, 15minutes!!! The packaging I got says 6minute dry time 15minute until you can handle it and it is acurate. It is hard as a rock in 15minutes. I have hit the side of this block with a hammer trying to break the top off and it will not budge. There is about 10 times more epoxy on the block than solder. With solder all you get is the edges and not the hole top. Also with the 4 mounting screws and the extra two screws I will put in the top it will not fall off.
For the pelt blocks I would probably have to solder as the epoxy might get real brittle at low temps.
So far I have been running over a week with the epoxied block with no sign of problems.
Soldering is a pin in the ass. And I have been a welder for 6 years.
I think I need a hotter tourch. I can't get the solder to flow onto the metal. Idon't think it is getting hot enough. There is plenty of flux. I got special rodfor Aluminum which works about the same way except is has 10,000PSI strength.
I am thinking about scraping both and using a O ring. That way the top is removable and you can clean the corrosion out after time. That will take some block modifications though.
I don't know. Iwill pick up a torch set this weekend and see if that will make the soldering easier.