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Originally Posted by Butcher
Why the -5V?
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No good reason. It works with just -5VDC on the copper, or +5VDC on the waste metal (steel or stainless), or +12VDC on the waste...
JUST MAKE SURE THE PIECE YOU WANT TO SACRIFICE IS POSITIVE RELATIVE TO THE PIECE YOU WANT TO RESTORE.
Because the process converts surface corrosion
back to pure metal (e.g. copper oxide becomes copper), but loosens off thick corrosion (by bubbling), there is good reason to carefully regulate the voltage and current with heavily corroded objects, to preserve as much metal as possible. But with objects not crusted over we can just use whatever's handy. I like to see the metal fiz like tempura in oil, personally.
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Originally Posted by TerraMex
Effects on the paint by electro cleaning?
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It defies instincts to put your hand in there, but it really is a gentle process.
Loose paint
on a corroded patch will be lifted off
if the electrolyte can get under it. Otherwise the effect will be just what you'd expect from soaking in plain water with a dollop of baking soda. Prolonged soaking would soften interior latex paints, and old fashioned milk paints.
Really thick coatings of grease will block the electrolytic action.